davidwort

That's the sort of CO you can expect from a car that has been set up (idle CO setting) at an MOT testing station in my experience, although it's a bit low (VW spec wise) it's often what MOT testers will (perhaps incorrectly) use. As others have said, the 16v tends to run lean at the top end and will benefit from being set up a bit richer, although I'm not sure the idle CO setting has much if any effect beyond just being the setting at idle, better to alter the control fuel pressure by tweaking the warm up regulator and getting the engine running richer all through the rev range. This is best done on a rolling road although I got it virtually spot on for my car by simply making small adjustments and checking the sooty deposits on my plugs weren't to bad. The WUR adjustment is most effective on cars that have had cylinder head work or high lift cams though. David. Davuid.

Phil, I now have a brand new audi 6A block (basically same as a corrado 9A 2.0 block) and a ported/flowed KR head and manifolds, As the car is a 1990 1.8 16v I have no cat and a standard VAG downpipe but with a Janspeed stainless system. I've stuck with the standard K-jetronic injection system and have standard KR cams. Before the 6A block (which is still running in) I had a bored out KR block which with the headwork gave about 165-170bhp and 145-150lb/ft depending on which rolling roads and which runs you choose! I like the compromise of the KR inlet cam although I'm sure peak hp could be improved slightly with higher lift cams. I'd be expecting to see similar figures with the 6A bottom end but I always had a piston/bore problem on the bored KR block so I wouldn't be surprised if the new engine ends up slightly better. If you look at the plots on GVK's website it is pretty clear that it's near impossible to maintain the good torque of standard cams low down with the really high peak HP figures of high lift cams. http://www.gvk-motorsport.co.uk/ David. [/url]

years back I was overtaken by an A8 on the A14 at 1am in the morning, I was doing a steady 120 and he flew past like I was standing still... must have been late for a drugs pick-up or something, was black tints standard equipment on those things? :)

cost wise i'd look to replace your 9a inlet cam with a kr item in conjunction with a cylinder head port and polish, the cat does restrict the 9a AFAIK so it may be worth investigating a cat by-pass pipe or KR downpipe (for non MOT days ;) ) you should get a solid 160bhp with this and dependant on the condition of the engine possibly approach 170bhp. High lift cams WILL push the power and torque band up the rev range, the question is do you want good low and mid range (9a inlet cam) good top end (high lift schricks etc..) or a good compromise of the KR inlet cam??? Not sure on the re-mapping of the KE system, but you may be able to gain a couple of hp at the top end by richening the fuelling once the headwork is done. Every time I would say spend the money on headwork before a new set of high lift cams. David.

well, no actually, it's torque at the wheels, everything else is calculated/guess-timated. By far the most interesting data I've had is plots of my car on the same graph as others run on the same day, especially very similar vehicles, e.g. a bog standard 2.0 16v against my 16v with my ported KR head and cams on a 2.0 bottom end, you could clearly see the characteristics of the higher lift cams and the constraints of the catalyst equiped 9A engine. What would be very useful for rolling road days is another benchmark, e.g. stick my bog standard 1.6 16v golf4 on there. Would some of these VR6's actually perform as if they had twice the power of the golf? (- it also weighs almost exactly the same as a C. 105bhp, about 10 sec 0-60 and nearly 120mph top speed.) David.

Oh, one other thing, I had my old KR block on AMD's rollers and Stealths rollers within a few weeks of each other and the result: virtually identical power and torque curves, it was just that the AMD ones were significantly further up the page on the graph, funny cause I had my tyre pressures the same, and ran both days on Optimax and had only put a few miles on the clock between runs. Perhaps it was the extra weight of a full fuel tank that slowed me down on Stealths rollers, I find that affects performance no end :lol:

:cuckoo: :cuckoo: 30hp from a chip and non standard exhaust on a recently designed engine and management system... let me think... bollox! suits the company that is selling the chips though, and gives the owner plenty of pub talk ammo... so guess what.. everyone goes home happy. If it took VW 10 years and a 24v variable inlet/variable valve timing 3.2L engine to go from a 2.9 VR6 190bhp to a 240bhp R32 why didn't they just ask AMD first! ...could have done it in less than 2hrs with a chip and crap aftermarket exhaust no doubt :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: :lol: Hang on, I think I can better that, what about the 1000hp skyline they had in Max power a few years back, how the cluck did they arrive at that figure!

20bhp from a re-map :shock: , pull the other one.. bit of creative use of the rolling road and it's software me thinks. David.

Don't rely on the MFA, a small vacuum problem could well screw up what it displays, fill the tank up, drive a few hundred miles and work out the mpg by hand, repeat this filling the tank to the top again and you should get a pretty regular figure for the average consumption. Weather and tyre pressures can make a few mpg difference and also tyre wear(affects gearing). Biggest killer would be the timing belt out a tooth or two and then someone fiddling with the base timing on the dizzy to try to compensate for the power loss/wrong advance. 16v's are crap on economy round town due to the weight coupled with the gearing and torque curve, but on a steady run you should get very good figures. I can make near 40mpg on a long motorway run in warm weather and usually average at least 32mpg on mixed driving in my quite heavily modified 2L converted from a 1.8. David.

C'mon Alex, you're taking longer to get that car sorted than me :roll: - and I've been on SORN for the last 4 months :cry: - but I'm now taxed and tested and with 120 miles on the clock... and it's not siezed yet :D David.

How about a meet up in MK sometime? seems like there's a few C's about round here now. David.

Yeah, I'd like to, but providing it's got the miles on it I would like Stealth to tune it up properly on the rollers so I might book it in with them. My old KR based 2L delivered about 168bhp on stealths rollers, on two separate occasions and 169 on AMD's so I'd hope that it matches that (or the torque curve is pretty good) as It's basically the same capacity. Of course as I got my documents out this morning to go and tax it I found the MOT is out of date by a couple of weeks :( ...typical! - would have had trouble getting it through an MOT as a Fliintstones car though (wasn't a great deal in the engine bay till last weekend :) ) David.

Keep the normal airbox, apart from preserving the warm air pickup for the winter months, it works just fine as standard, perhaps remove the snorkel inside. Get a K&N or Jetex panel filter if you must but they don't really make any difference over a clean paper filter, bar the noise. DAvid.

Fired up my 6A based engine last night, all bar one vacuum pipe unconnected and it ran perfect first time, god that was a relief, I must have cranked it over at least 8 times by hand before I was convinced I'd got the engine timing right :) Anyhow what do people reckon on running in?, the heads been stripped too but the old guides were fine. Biggest grin on my face for months when I took it out for a few gentle miles this morning :D David.

Ported and polished 42.5mm all the way :) Good torque at low revs and no breathing probs with a 2L bottom end and a gas flowed head. David.

Anything else that's worth doing, my 1990 130,000 mile 16v is starting to feel quite odd at high speed when changing direction, top mounts were replaced not long ago with uprated dampers on eibach springs, but all the other rubber bushes and ball joints etc will be original. What do you reckon needs doing? at least one front wishbone bush is starting to look like it's splitting when the car is up on the ramp although it passed the MOT fine. Should I do rear axle bushes, ball joints and wishbone/roll bar bushes as a matter of course? ta, David.

sounds like the usual mistakes that non VAG data books tend to print, as the last Corrado's crossed over build dates with the mk3 16v's with 150bhp ABF's fitted it wouldn't surprise me that someone mistakenly put the corrado 2.0 16v down as having the same engine in late 94/95 model years. Seems the most likely explanation to me, mind you, a standard 9A Corrado lump with a higher lift inlet cam would certainly give well over 140bhp I would have thought. David.

Don't bother, they don't fit properly (need loads of trimming underneath) don't have proper fixings (like the Kamei) and can prevent your bonnet from catching properly. ...Plus I think eyebrows are way too early 90's :) David.

why VW? just get one from GSF or Euro Car Parts, nothing erong with them. David.

I'm putting my KR head onto an audi 6A block (basically same as 9A block) there's no problem at all. It's just the KR inlet cam that is milder than the 9A/6A cams and helps breathing at higher revs, I don't think there's much between the 1.8 and 2.0 heads in unmodified form, but I'd say this was a good opportunity to get one of them ported and polished, my previous 2.0 with a P&P head and KR cams gave 170bhp. David.

Internally polished(rough, not a mirror finish) and port matched 42.5mm is the way to go IMO, unless the engine is race spec in a mk1 Golf track car David.

it would be good to get a variety of torque plots together for the 42.5 and 50mm manifolds on different engines, (even if there is a margin of error in rolling road plots) here is my 2.0L bored KR block with KR cams and an internally polished and ported 42.5 inlet and secondly the engine as it started out, unmodified 1.8 KR with a 42.5mm inlet

apparently ABF cams have more lift and less duration to a kr set, try this site: http://www.gvk-motorsport.co.uk/ he's a Club GTI forum regular and there's loads of threads on GLUB GTI about 2.0 ABF/9A/6A conversions and power and torque people get. David.

My MK3 16V has 160K on it, It is a better motor than the 9A and KR, it puts out 150bhp std. Thats with a soft inlet cam for emissions. It averages over 35 MPG which I really like too. Gavin ABF's do give good power in standard and modified form, but I'd say in theory they would be less inclined to rev as they have a longer stroke, the injection system is better in standard form(fully electronic injection) too although the cams are very similar to the KR ones and better than the flat inlet of the 6A/9A. A 6A (audi block) should be the cheapest and easiest route though, as there are more around (good 9A's are pretty scarce) and they have basically the same injection system as the KR. The 6A block is so much like the 9A it should be a very easy replacement for the KR - Well I know it is as I'm doing it now myself!, only a couple of minor items to sort out, oil filter/crankcase breather housing and sump pan/oil filter pickup. David.

not on mine, (1990 16v), but old (pre 1988) passat 1.6 and 1.8's have the same ash-tray and that is lit if you want second hand bits to do it. David.