davidwort

If you have the time and the patience all of the parts should cost you less than 15 quid from maplins etc.. At the simplest, it's one relay and four wires, a feed direct from the battery to the relay, an earth from the relay, one of your existing dip or main beam feeds to the light unit (redirect to relay to use to switch the relay) and the feed out from the relay to your lights. You will need to duplicate this if you want to relay both dip and main beam, but the relays are less than 2 quid each. You should also put an inline fuse in the feed from the battery to the relay (some more expensive relays have a piggy back fuse built into them) you can make a neater job by carefully fitting weatherproof connectors and heatshrink tubing etc.. or it may be possible to source connector blocks that match the cars existing headlight connectors to save cutting into the existing headlight feeds. Time consuming to do neatly but not technically difficult at all. David.

357 199 279 B same as passat 88-92 David.

aren't they usually for slipping the stem seals over the valves, seem to remember those in my old polo's head set too. David.

Forgot to say, It's a 2.0 9a engine with KR cams that gets the extra hp, however, most engine tuners I've spoken to say the 9A/6A 2.0 bottom end is only good for about another 7bhp on top of the 1800 unit, a well set up 1.8 16v with standard KR cams could well give more than the factory bhp output if in very good run in condition.

I've always understood the standard manifold is OK, perhaps with a little internal polishing. most 4 branch manifolds have no flexibility and can crack especially if your engine mounts get worn and you drive hard. Personally cams are only really suited to a ported and gas flowed head, but you can get 155bhp plus from a 1.8 with this work done properly. If you have to rebuild your 16v head, then I'd def say get it ported and gas flowed while it's off, 1.8 or 2.0. David.

I did that myself ages ago, basically you remove the warm up reg, drill the top of the brass dome on the back of it off carefully and there is s screw adjustment inside for the fuel control pressure, it's set a t the factory. By reducing the control pressure here you boost the fuel pressure to the injectors at all revs. It's a crude way of richening the mixture, but works well with modified engines as K-jets tend to run lean at the top end anyway. all you need is a 5 or 6mm drill bit and a bit of time to try out different settings, only turn it about 1/8 of a turn at a time though as small amounts increase the fuelling quite a bit, check the plugs after a hundred miles or so and if they're not too sooty then you've probably got it about right, a rolling road will just help you get the setting right quicker. I've got the 6A Audhi block sorted now, just need a few bits at the weekend and it should start to come together, my old TSR 2.0 block is junk :roll: Here's the notes I did on this mod before: Remove the regulator by unscrewing the two 5mm allen bolts that hold it to the head. On the back of the regulator is a tamper-proof cap! - drill the top off this carefully and you can adjust the fuel control pressure by turning the 4mm allen screw. Anti-clockwise reduces control pressure and therefore increases fuel pressure to the injectors, be careful to mark the factory set position and turn about 1/8th of a turn and see how it runs. Be careful to check the fuel unions when re-connecting, the aluminium washers should really be replaced, and check for leaks when you re-start the car. The K-Star unit basically by-passes this unit in a controlled way with a valve (actually a fuel injector) to lower the control pressure, but adds the ability to map the pressure control to speed and load conditions. The manual adjustment is fixed across the rev range and is therefore a bit less fuel efficient and not finely tuned to the engines needs. It works really well tough, giving a boost where it needs it to high rev. mixture richness. If you want to check the richness, drive the car for a few hundred miles and remove one or more of the sparkplugs, they should be running cooler and have some brownish deposits, possibly a bit of black carbon fouling but not on the electrodes themselves, just the base at the end of the thread that sits inside the combustion chamber. This shows a fairly rich mixture, but not too rich. It's surprising how accurately plug condition can determine if fuelling is right, especially on a K-jet engine. Most Haynes manuals have colour pictures of plugs in various conditions, useful as a guide. All at your own risk of course :wink: cheers, David.

just found this site from the Club GTI Forum, loads of info and dyno plots of various mods and their results, mainly mk2 16v's but lots relevant to KR and 9A engines. Plots on 'J485 GVK - Tune up' link are quite interesting showing different cams and their results on hp and torque. http://www.gvk.altrezia.com/menu.html David.

don't know about the linkage, but seeing as no-one else has posted, you need to undo the downpipe to centre section joint and lower the rest of the exhaust really, at least lower it at the mid section, much easier on a full garage ramp. David.

Nope, cause Bally's doesn't and that's a KR, although it is a German spec RHD with the later digital mileometer dash, not that that makes a difference. The later setup drives the ps pump directly from the crank (different sized pulleys) and the alt and water pump are driven by the other belt. David.

there's two pulley setups on 1.8 16v's, earlier cars got the golf/jetta 2 arrangement with a second (idler)pulley on the waterpump that has a slip bearing built into it, it's there basically to deflect the belt or it would foul on the water pump, the later cars (and 2.0 16v's) have a different arrangement that avoids the need for this and drives the ps pump only, straight from the crank pulley, then the other belt drives the alternator and water pump (think that's the right way round. I think you need to change quite a few of the pulleys and both belts to turn an earlier arrangement into the later one, although the ps pump water pump and alternators should be the same. David. (6A audi engine at the ready for my C)

that's great cheers :notworthy: , I can't quite see the top of the housing where it bolts to the block, but if you have the black plastic breather unit (which it looks like you do) rather than the cast alloy one then that gives me the info I need. I'm now just on the lookout for a passat/2L C or mk 3 oil filter housing now as my 1800 KR engine one doesn't fit, VW want 85 quid for the bracket :shocked!: - I think NOT!!! thanks again Phil, David.

trying to fit an audi 6a block to my car in place of the old KR, can anyone check their 2.0 16v to see if the oil filter hangs straight down rather than at an angle towards the gearbox, also that the mounting bracket has a fixing/bolt hole at the top left that appears to take the corner out of the breather unit, as opposed to the breather having 4 equally spaced bolts itself. VW changed the filter braket to incorporate a by pass valve on the later 2.0's and the bracket had to be made slightly longer. I'm after a 9A oil filter bracket (I think) and then the audi block should go in. cheers, David.

I bought a set of BERU ones from GSF about 6 years ago, no problem whatsoever, Hella is another manufacturer of standard leads, you won't get more performance from a 100 quid plus set, they just look flashier. David.

I love my Goodyear Eagle F1's for especially wet conditions, can be got for less than 50 quid each for 195's, 205's will be a bit more as they're less common. Mate has them on a Leon cupra, said they improved that car no-end too. David.

could order one from VW, or just find one on a golf or passat at a scrap yard. They have a habit of working loose, try a bit of loc-tite on the threads David.

how about new plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, oil change, air filter and then an hour or two on a good rolling road, all this should cost under 200 quid (50 quid an hour-ish for rolling road) and will release the full potential of a standard engine, it's surprising how many cars are running with timing out and poor ignition systems not to mention runnning too lean or too rich. A friends 2.016v was transformed when we discovered a garage had got the timimg out by one tooth on the cam pulley, yet he had been driving the car for at least a year like this, effectively with the ignition 10 degrees retarded all the time! David.

are you sure it hasn't just worsened the torque at lower revs so it feels like there is more at the top end? only way to really tell would be back to back tests on a rolling road, but given that the rest of the engine is unaltered a larger bore intake results in lower gas speeds and so lower torque. David.

77Ah Hella one, 2yr warranty but cheaper than a 64Ah Bosch (you're only paying for a longer warranty anyway) fit's in my 16v just fine, both my previous Bosch silver 64's only last 3 years anyway, can't really take the occasional 2 weeks not being used and radio/immobiliser/alarm drain. VW state a 55Ah for my car, that's just not up to the job with extras fitted. David. mk2vr6,

It's not cheap and you'll never cghange the basic characteristics of the engine, but a 1.8 can be improved a great deal with a 2.0 block and a good qualitygas flowed head. ver roughly, the 10% capacity increase gives about 10% more torque and something approaching 10bhp more power at high revs, the head can give 15bhp or more depending on the quality of the work. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4582&highlight=power+plot Before I blew my headgasket I was regularly getting at least the standard torque of a standard 2.0 16v plus about 30bhp more at 6000rpm, generally the calculated flywheel bhp was about 165-170 and the wheel bhp at least 20bhp more than standard. head approx 600quid block 1400 quid new from TSR, but could be done for a couple of hundred using a second hand corrado or passat 9a or audi 80 sport block David.

cheers, I notice that the metal one is listed for the 2.0L 16v 9A engined corrado on ETKA, same part number as for the ABF engines, 048 103 383D and also a second alternative part 053 103 385 Interestingly they don't seem any more expensive from VW as non metal ones from ECP etc... David.

On the 16v it's the front switch that you replace for the 2 pole sender, it's the low pressure one if that helps, each sender should have the pressure range stamped underneath if you are unsure. I've also seen a G60 with a 52mm boost gauge in the space occupied by one of the centre dash air vents, actually looked pretty good mounted here, and nice and high up, then you could put the other two in the cubby hole. Fiiting 3 below the ash-tray is possible but a bit of a squeeze and 3 where the ash-tray is would need quite a bit of butchering of the dash. David.

One thing I would say is that exposed relays and connectors under the bonnet will get salt spray etc... into them over the winter, for the long term they really need better protection in this position. I bought a plastic box from maplins and housed all the relays and fuses inside this, requires four phillips screws to be removed to change a fuse, but I haven't had a single problem in four years of use. Just my 2p, David. yep, I know, I was in a hurry, which is never a good thing.... Still could be better...

OK, I'll try this again, last time I got a nasty error back from the web server instead of posting my reply, first take the door panel off, lower the window before unplugging the window switch(you can always re-attach it to move the regulator up and down later) you can get at two 10mm bolts(i think) that hold the glass to the regulator (in the middle of the base of the glass) remove these and pop the plastic wheels in the rail at the bottom of the glass off the end of the regulator arms (they're just pushed onto ball shaped ends of the arms) the glass should lift out of the door b pillar end first at an angle, you need to remove at least the inside rub strip on the top of the door panel/inner door skin edge make sure the door film is carefully sealed back into place on refitting as a hole may not let water in directly but will let moist air into the car which will tend to condense on your windows I haven't actually extracted a glass myself, but have replaced a regulator (Bar-steward to do) and the glass looked relatively simple to replace. David.

Took the head off at the weekend to discover: pic attached Looks like a ring has gone on No.4 letting oil into the cyliner (hence my excessive oil consumption) and finally detonation on the gasket caused by the oil burning (making this cylinder run like a diesel!) blowing through into no.3 Notice the lovely vertical scores on the back wall of no.4 :cry: ...Good news is: the head is fine! I'll be popping out that piston to look at the rings tonight.. what fun. David. not corradoing at the mo.

cheers for the reply, yep, the head was gasflowed and rebuilt a year or two before the bottom end, suspected valve stem seals or guides but the way the oil was burning didn't seem to fit with that, guess all will become clear when I get those headbolts undone! David.