davidwort

you can do it with a hacksaw (or bare hacksaw blade) but it's a PITA as you can't cut sideways (as said) I did do it with a hacksaw but the result wasn't as pretty, ended up bending it with pliers to get the bit of metal out IIRC.

it's an easy enough mechanical swap, but the 2L injection system might not run right on the lower capacity 1.8 block, a 2L ABF from a mk3 golf would be better

Vag ones are plastic now, very long lasting and tough, kit usually comes with new nuts/bolts etc, which is good. You can source the plastic boots from other factors though.

It's something like 40 and 52mm hub spacing for the two different ones

yes, you need a mk2 golf style pump with the shorter pump body to pulley offset, the 2L 16v ones (and late 1.8 16v) have the deleted idler pulley and longer pump driveshaft. VW call it hub spacing.

I've used them, good for some bits, had a quality pattern air filter and carbon pollen filter delivered from them for peanuts, some of the images of parts have ECP logo watermarked on them so I think it must be run by them, prices on some things are cheaper than the trade can source items from ECP and the like, on proper trade accounts.

cool, you'll be making RO water for your car's coolant system then :)

so the fastest one burns the most petrol, the slowest the least, can we finish this now???

little 3W bulb, just order an LED equivalent off e-bay they're much brighter and whiter so you can actually see things at the bottom of the box, just make sure to get one short enough 25-30mm is OK I think. or this if you want original: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-SV7-8-12V-3W-FESTOON-30mm-LONG-bulb-/120800573376?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c204677c0#ht_1985wt_181 or 1W single superbright LED, I've got a twin version of this for the boot which lights it very well, slightly directional http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31MM-1w-SMD-HIGH-POWER-LED-NUMBER-PLATE-LIGHT-FESTOON-BULB-XENON-WHITE-ALUMINIUM-/290626713586?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43aab3b7f2#ht_2975wt_990 or this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-31MM-INTERIOR-LIGHT-FESTOON-BULB-LED-XENON-WHITE-UK-/300593398258?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fcc341f2#ht_2959wt_990

might be better if you put some oil in it :)

I wouldn't worry too much,I've done it before on newer vw abs systems too, but It's just something worth remembering that reduces the risk of damaging something, you don't want to keep the old fluid low down in the system by the pistons anyway as that's where dirt and moisture settles anyway.

Apologies if you've explained before, but why can't you pressure bleed from reservoir? I've used an ezibleed with good results on various abs cars, worried now if it can cause a problem!

mk4's run big rolling circumference wheels/tyres, I'd make sure you know the ratios and FD first (that's why a mk4 box would appear 'close ratio', actually just short ratio.) do they also come with larger driveshaft flanges on them? if you get the gearbox codes, ETKA should have all the ratios to work out how they would compare to a VR6 box. (2001 model year) these boxes use the 108mm flanges, the others use 100mm ECW, DZL, EBS, EBN, ENJ, FBX, EHB, EGY, EVS

I'm starting my 3 cylinder 1.4TDI conversion which will be shod with 4 space saver wheels soon, that way I figure I won't need to bother with wiper conversions or headlight upgrades either.

tweeters at floor level isn't the best position though, the Corrado has dash speaker grilles so why not use that location???, it's what VW did with the factory tweeters and that's where I put my Infinity tweeters, the space isn't much good for anything else anyway as you can only fit a 4" driver in there.

I was beginning to think this was a troll :) yeah, bit too short a reply, what I meant was all the corrados will do 35mpg+ on a long steady run, some engines a bit better than others, but none of them are very economincal if just run from cold a few miles around town. Best case has to be the 8v, the MFA on mine seems fairly accurate compared to filling the tank and calculating the mpg manually, so from my experience if you start the car from cold (outside temp 5-10 degrees say) and do a 20 mile drive, 2/3 cruising at 60-70 the rest with a bit of stop start, then you should get 40mpg or pretty close, compares to about 36/37 on my 16v. Steady 60mph on the flat in the dry and the 8v will do closer to 50mpg even a bit more if you are very light-footed. Town driving from cold, lots of stop start, anything from 25-30mpg as long as that is not all in the first 10 minutes from cold. Or another comparison, a similar week of mixed driving on a tank of fuel and my 16v does about 34mpg, 8v 36mpg and my 1.6 16v mk4 golf about 38mpg. Oh, and there's no such thing as a 1.8 8v Corrado, only the 1.8 16v, and the 2.0 8v is more economical than that.

they'll all do 35mpg on a good run, but none are good for running around, it doesn't sound like you want/need a Corrado at all :scratch:

I wouldn't let it go for that little, it might only need 50 quids worth of parts and the leather alone could go close to 7/800 on e-bay. I'd get an MOT done and then at least even if you don't do the work you can sell it with an independent estimate of the cost of work to get 12 months ticket on it. My suspicions are it would go for well over a grand on e-bay even without the MOT and a lot more with it done, base don your description of the rest of it.

did the system/ABS unit run dry, as you have changed hoses so can't have clamped them to stop fluid draining? Is the pedal behaviour totally different with the engine on/off, could be servo related. Not sure if you can cycle the ABS unit with diagnostics kit to remove air, perhaps someone else can confirm.

just spotted this thread again :) I've still got the 125L Fluval Roma, some plants nice and estabilshed now, as well as the 50L my son has, but I've got bitten by the bug and have set up another smaller tank for shrimps, funny little things, but quite entertaining :) this is one of the little guys rooting around in the moss/bogwood: [ATTACH=CONFIG]53793[/ATTACH]

genius!, never thought of that :) have to say, the second hand vice I bought must be one of the best tools I've ever had :)

PITA you need to hold the pulley still to undo the big nut holding it on, but not damaging the pulley, much easier to buzz it undone with an air-gun. a damaged pulley can make a horrible noise, but as long as it runs true and the inner surface the belt runs on is OK then it should be fine, don't be tempted to hold it still by the cooling fins if you do try to remove the pulleys, this gets bent very easily

10 minutes tops. I'm assuming the new one has come with the pulley on it?

you need to make sure the idle control is being switched on, should be a micro-switch under throttle body, sometimes with worn acc cables the cable doesn't release fully and so the switch doesn't get depressed. I think the 2L still has an air-bleed in the throttle body to set the idle, but don't fiddle with that until everything else is checked out, I'm assuming the basics like ignition and engine timing are set up right? 2.0L shouldn't have been fiddled about with on the fuel distributor unit, there is a tiny tamper cap on top of the unit where on the 1.8 there is a tube for setting the idle CO with a long thin allen key, this could have been messed with by someone before if the car has had idle problems caused by other things. It's also possible the throttle position sensor is a bit worn in the idle position, the resistance it gives could be checked with a digital multimeter just to make sure it provides a smooth progressive reading around idle.

In the engine bay at the sensor, that's where the wires get hot/cold and the insulation breaks down and the copper corrodes.