davidwort

you can get the slotted nut tool from lots of places, e.g. http://www.vwspares.co.uk/suspension_tools.php http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=776&item=1562

so many different tint indicators and repeaters used on cars from the factory I doubt any tester will worry, unless your indicators flash red, but then that's always been a fail really.

No clearance issues, both can be removed easily, if you look inside the subframe when the wishbone is out there is a c shaped locator for the rear bushing so no need to sleeve the bolts as on a mk2 golf. I'd replace the rubbers on the arb droplinks too, or the whole droplink if it's badly corroded, the rubber mounts tend to distort and harden to the shape of the old rusty wishbone. Note the orientation of the droplinks, washers and rubbers and arb before you take everything apart, easy to get things the wrong way round on assembly. Give them a good coat of wax protection spray after fitting but protect the brake disks and pads from overspray.

"Past evidence shows that speed limit increases lead to substantial rises in road deaths" Ah yes, would be so much better if we all drove at 5mph with a man with a red flag walking in front of us :roll: and since when did the London School of Hygiene and Medicine know anything about driving anyway, should stick to advising people how to wipe their arses.

I better get a new steering lock before the summer then :( It was actually handy rolling the car about on the drive without the keys in it with no steering lock :lol:

lower the bare arm with no blade attached carefully to the screen, if it stops short of the glass then it's resting on the shoulders and may not press the blade fully to the glass over all the sweep, so you can do that to check either type of arm for the shoulders. I've not had any issue with the lupo arms and the blades last well, I guess pollution, dirt, wax, all sorts can affect the blade rubber.

Forum was here first on the web with a lot of chat and info from people working on their cars (although strictly the yahoo group was first), the club has been running longer and has organised many great events around the country for many years, has public liability insurance etc. get involved in both is my advice the you won't miss out on anything corrado related :)

yep, dash will need to ome out for felt underneath for the tunnel, first remove the ash tray and the phillips screw under it connecting the very rear/under section to the handbrake section then remove the centre cushion (4 bolts) tab under handbrake handle to remove grip - slide off over metal arm forwards squeeze handbrake cover section and slide forwards over handle single screw vertically downwards from top section of tunnel to under section twist off 4 plastic nuts, 2 either side of tunnel and the top centre section will come up and forward off over the handbrake, you may need to release the handbrake to remove it, under section of tunnel should then lift out, careful not to break off the tabs, 2 either side where the plastic nuts were I think that's all. I think the dash removal info is in the heater matrix how-to article. no, this is better :http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?45452-Replacing-the-heater-matrix-non-canada-style-max-pics

If you want to go with a new engine, do just that, find a newer powerplant like a 1.8T variant or 24V V6, engines and spares will be easier to come by and the result will be more powerful, economical and probably lighter, maybe even cheaper to insure as insurance on transplanted cars seems to be based on the vehicles the engines were sourced from.

I'd check the rubber and the screen, it may be juddering because the screen has a film of dirt on it, so it's worth scrubbing the screen with a detergent, or it could be the blade is distorted already, you can remove the rubber and insert it the other way around so it doesn't judder on the down stroke if the rubber has started top 'lean' one way. Perhaps try some rain-x on it. Equally, providing the rubber has the same 'T' shaped cross section (there's a lot of variation even on VW blades), you can swap rubbers out from one blade to another without having to buy complete new aero blades. I had a bunch of blades too long for the corrado and have cut them down to fit the lupo blade backing. If the blades are fairly new it's unlikely to be the rubber that's distorted, that usually happens after they've been on the car a while and spent most of their time in the parked position, so leaning down the screen rather than up which you need for the first stroke when the wipers come on. I noticed a few years ago that some new cars actually move the blade back up a fraction from the park position so the blade is leaning the right way for the 'up stroke' and the blades last longer as a result.

couple of quid off ebay if you struggle to get one from VW

Oh, that's a real bu99er, I've worked on alternators before without disconnecting the battery, even made sparks fly, don't know how I've got away with it. hope this helps on the voltage reg front, think this is from club GTI from years back, may be from a mk2 or early corrado dash but I think the info is still applicable:

the basic pump itself is pretty common across vw models (an even other car makers) plenty of places do recon ones, I've had a recon one on for ten years or more with no trouble on an early 16v, the main difference is two different spacings from pump body to pulley and different angles of feed pipe connector, I'm not familiar with the G60 one specifically but it must be basically the same as the basic vw 1.8 or 2L 8v engine 16v engine you might find one with a slightly differnt angle of feed pipe works fine, the supply pipe is also a push fit into the pump body so you may be able to swap that over from your old pump. looking at the part descriptions the 1.8 16v has the same pulley-pump offset (the longer 51mm rather than the later 2.0L 16v 41mm) and it looks like it's just the angled supply pipe that is G60 specific, they fit those angled supply pipes slightly differently on other cars, I have a polo and 2L 8v pump which both have angled supply pipes, just slightly different positions and as they don't have to be pressurised they just need to be fitted leak proof at the right angle, the polo one I have actually came loose and fell out I just keep it as a spare as the hub offset is right for what I need. In the past GSF didn't list the pump I needed so I just compared my old one with the recon types they had in stock over the counter and matched one up.

mmm, it's only one para and looks like it's probably true with the date changed, a bit lazy, but don't think it's worth going to court over :) if it was a complete advert copy I'd probably want to warn people to check the new ad very carefully before believing much in it, especially if the reg was the same!

manual steering will always feel lighter the faster you move so you may be getting little or no power assistance at all. has the fluid level dropped at all?, any visible leaks from the pump hoses or rack? the pumps are pretty simple, they usually either leak fluid as the bearing wears or the pressure relief valve sticks inside them and you get permanent pressure even when not turning, lots of groaning and very soon leaks from the pressure hose to the rack. It sounds more like a rack problem, you can pull back the rack gators to see if fluid has leaked out into them, not sure how you can check the pump is actually pumping fluid as the G60 has the later style reservoir that the fluid doesn't flow through.

how much for one with someone else's name on it?

just my 2p on this, after years of patching up small bits of bodywork rust, generally unsuccessfully, I'm also sure that drying out the panel before painting is key. You only get corrosion if there is moisture and I'm pretty sure that steel that has had corrosion will have small amounts of moisture seemingly in the steel itself. So just removing the rust is not enough, by heating up the cleaned panel first I've had much better results. The smallest bit of moisture left in the metal causes tiny amounts of new corrsoion that crack the new paint and allow more moisture back in. cutting out rust and welding in new steel will of course heat the panel, so that process should help chase moisture out of surrounding original steel, just my theory anyway, must be some more info out there on the web. You could just move to California??

Go 2L, it gives a nice bit of extra torque :)

make sure you loosen the right bolts to move the PAS pump, you need to slacken the main long pivot bolt the whole pump and bracket assembly swings on as well as a couple of other 13mm bolts to allow the pump to move, sometimes it's best to remove the bottom toothed adjuster bolt altogether to allow enough movement to get the belt off and on. don't overtighten the new belt either, or it will strain the pump shaft and make nasty chattering noises on the pulleys, best leave it a bit slack and do up tighter if it slips

it's a pain as a family car, the doors are too long :)

just take the 2.016v block and head, use everything else off the 1.8, all a direct fit. you will need to get CO set up to get the best from the 2L lump at some point and it will aslo benefit from having the fuel control pressure adjusted by tweaking the Warm up regulator valve, this is not essential but will get a fair bit more power from the engine, really needs to be done on a rolling road for best results, only takes an hour max though.

Ah, cheers, will just get new bulbs I think, I bought some cheap 12v waterproof LED strips from ebay for night lighting in my fishtank, should have seen my missus face when I told her they were to fit to the sills on the corrado :lol:

as long as it's got the standard 70A alternator it should be like my rubbish sketch below, I don't think any got higher output alternators or PAS driven by the same ribbed belt but I guess it's possible on a late ADY engine as the parts ran out :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]50728[/ATTACH]

nope, there's a serpentine belt for the alt, waterpump and a small v belt that just does the PAS pulley separately, very simple, no separate tensionner etc.

Worth a go, only a couple of quid.