LowG

the best solution by far is retrofiting projectors with hid ballasts in the existing reflectors, the light quality intensity and spread is awesome. The stock reflectors arent good enough, although the uprated loom does help, adding 100w bulbs will kill the reflectors and fade them quickly.

Hi, it's haldex with controller switch, mounted on modified rallye rear beam and rear suspension arms, best thing I ever did! The aim was to achieve 700+hp per tonne, the power we have reached, the weight we are 80kg over for now.

Cheers mate, next time come say hello. Current work is going into gears and ratios, stock 02m r32/4cyl ratios are way too short for high power, this is preliminary testing until the dog gear kit is finished.

Current update, new skin to evade the radar :) High res

After a set of doors, glass or other ancs not needed. thanks

lol 440 cc is not considered to be a big injector, to make more power you will need more fuel period so the bigger injector is a must. New generation of injectors nowdays is more advanced than the older style given better spray patterns and control. Of course in order to get good idle with a new set of injectors your tune must be changed. I have seen stable idle with injectors up to 1000cc on 16v engines vw or others, dont be scared of bigger injectors for your engine, as long as you can feed more air into and adjust your map :).

what no turbo :shrug: :)

I will be at GTi festival but hopefully Big Bang if all goes well.

Been very cought up with work but I have managed to sneak a few new parts under the bonnet. I have installed bigger valves, valvetrain components and new camshafts. All in all should be able to produce power up to 9krpm, be at the right rpm after shifting. Should be able to do some dyno runs soon followed by some sprint runs.

Ciao As for camshafts there is various selection to pick from but most of them are for NA, will also depend what type of lifter you are using. Stock cams work good on turbo but once you start getting serious you need to change cams. Adjustable chain sprokets and front pulley its a good idea to optimize your powerband and stop losses. You could achieve 500hp on stock cams but lets say with proper cams you could do more power for same amount of timing and boost.

The EVO is for sprints/sunday monster. You would be amazed how well they can spool the big turbos, launching is a piece of cake using launch control. It has a Crower stroker 2.4 crank, 8x very big injectors as it will be used on ethanol E85/E100 daily and VP import for racing. The "gold" valve springs are not made of gold, they are high quality steel wire, withstand large coil bind, used in many Nascar teams. I really hope they start selling E85 in more pumps around London, you can run such an aggressive tune and whole load of boost :luvlove:

Yep right on, its from a EVO 8, very well designed head must say 8) . As far as the fuel rail, you can use the 20v rail with the stock 16v flange, you can get away by using spacers and tapping the flange for M6/8 bolts so you can fasten it down. Although I like to weld 2 alu nuts/blocks on the flange and tap them instead.

Ok maybe this next clue should give all away. Andrew its a customers head not mine :razz: . As for compression wise he is running 9:1 pretty much what I run too.

Doesn't have to be German :wink: I finished it off recenlty, has inconel Ferrea valves, gold double valve springs very high duration cams, superlight weight lifters titanium everything, fully ported, 5 angle cut seats. Its going on an engine that will run a GT42R turbocharger :shock: :grin:

no and no

Since there is more words than action in this thread who can tell me what engine this head belongs to :) . It has over 2.5k worth of parts to it .

I dont really see a downside to putting a turbo at the back of your engine, if you are prepared to invest the money in good quality parts and enjoy the extra power there is no issues. Im all in for new things and trying different stuff, you could get a 16v run nicely on a lysholm but not on the small version that BBM offer. You have to then think about the extra noise ect and the ability to to change settings ie vary boost ect. You must mount the lysholm properly otherwise they can seize. The other issue is that chargers are not as easy to get hold of and you cant really spec them out more custom to you particular needs, theres not much market out there to so you only have a few brands you could chose from, think about warranty on product offered too. Turbos are much easy to spec to your needs, customize, rebuilt and are readily available. Then you have to think about the engines ability, you can make a 16v head flow well and rev to 8000rpm with few valvetrain components ie springs/retainers. If you have good flow you have quick spoolup and can make very good power. Engine will also rev easier on those high revs as you wont have a charger strapped to it. In terms of having a hot turbo near the firewall thats not an issue really, you can use things like heatwrap tape to protect all your wiring back there, turbo bag to cover the turbo hotside, ceramic coatings on the turbo hotside, firewall aluminium barrier, exhaust wrap on the manifold and downpipe, if your downpipe is too close to engine mount then just make a shield for it. All these products are not that expensive either. I like to raise the back of the bonnet with a few washers, this acts as a huge vent. There is no reason engine mounts will suffer from a turbo, if you are making good power you will most likley change your mounts to stronger ones regardless of how you boost your engine. Mounts can be damaged more by improper launch of car or clutch release/driving style than by turbo spool up. If you need additional engine stability an engine damper can also help. I think some of these issues have made most VR6 owners switch from supercharged to turbo, or maybe they are just power hungry :lol: .

I dont really see a downside to putting a turbo at the back of your engine, if you are prepared to invest the money in good quality parts and enjoy the extra power there is no issues. Im all in for new things and trying different stuff, you could get a 16v run nicely on a lysholm but not on the small version that BBM offer. You have to then think about the extra noise ect and the ability to to change settings ie vary boost ect. You must mount the lysholm properly otherwise they can seize. The other issue is that chargers are not as easy to get hold of and you cant really spec them out more custom to you particular needs, theres not much market out there to so you only have a few brands you could chose from, think about warranty on product offered too. Turbos are much easy to spec to your needs, customize, rebuilt and are readily available. Then you have to think about the engines ability, you can make a 16v flow well and rev to 8000rpm with few valvetrain components ie springs/retainers. If you have good flow you have quick spoolup and can make very good power. Engine will also rev easier on those high revs as you wont have a charger strapped to it. In terms of having a hot turbo near the firewall thats not an issue really, you can use things like heatwrap tape to protect all your wiring back there, turbo bag to cover the turbo hotside, ceramic coatings on the turbo hotside, firewall aluminium barrier, exhaust wrap on the manifold and downpipe, if your downpipe is too close to engine mount then just make a shield for it. All these products are not that expensive either. I like to raise the back of the bonnet with a few washers, this acts as a huge vent. There is no reason engine mounts will suffer from a turbo, if you are making good power you will most likley change your mounts to stronger ones regardless of how you boost your engine. Mounts can be damaged more by improper launch of car or clutch release/driving style than by turbo spool up. If you need additional engine stability an engine damper can also help. I think some of these issues have made most VR6 owners switch from supercharged to turbo, or maybe they are just power hungry :lol: .

The anti turbo movement :lol: Turbo-ing a 16v is the best thing you could do to it really, I have found best hp for pound is easiest achieved by using a turbo. I have tested the 16v with the G60 charger, lysholm compressor and turbocharger, you can guess what I use... Turbo vs charger is a never ending debate but without going to extremes a turbo system will be cheaper and yield more power. Reliability on on turbo valver should not be an issue if done right.

The G-lader is an original piece to the Corrado but if you are serious about making power I would think twice about using it. When you have a 16v head you really want to make use of its breathing capacity and rpm range, G60 will only tickle the 16v :) . By all means if you are looking for around 250hp and like the G60 sounds then go for it, if you are after power and durability go for turbo or another supercharger type lysholm,rotrex... Would be easier to turbo it and thats what Id do but thats just me :D

It is a kind of hybrid, size bigger than a GT40R. 4wd is miles better than fwd specially for street use but it has its downfall too, weight, extra drag ... You can go very quick with 4wd (9-8 seconds) and after that you must switch to rwd and special gearboxes if you want to go any faster :gag:

Well I have the 4wd selectable in different modes, so I can chose to have it off or on ect but there is some drag added regardless of it being fwd or with the rear diff 100% on lock. Its a different turbo now I got on with lower boost but I must say the 4wd conversion is really worth it, car feels much faster through the gears due to the fact of being able to lay most of the power down and its very stable at that. Difference is night and day. Vid of sunday, you can hear the bloody missfire through 3-4 great loss of power :mad2: Hope to get a better run next time, lose weight and more boost :)

Quick update Ran the car at inters again couldn't get a solid run without issues. 2 runs best of 12.6s 1/4 and 4 second 0-60, bad missfires in 3rd gear, 14psi boost. Still way off the target but slowly heading that way. Inters times seemed bit more accurate as few guys were comparing their santa pod times but obviously higher times than that of a properly preped track.

You dont need to do anything for 300hp, only thing I would suggest is probably a strut brace.

Been running in the new lump, all seems good. The 4wd setup is working superb ;) I must say and well worth it. The car feels overall balanced and just grips even with crappy tires. Once completed some milage we shall begin to turn that boost up :nuts: Some snaps. :salute: