LowG

Hi I am trying to find out the rpm signal wire that sends the signal to the distributor on the 16v. I think its the green wire located G1 position 12 on the fusebox. I have lost my bentley so have no means of finding it out, can someone with a bentley check it out just to double check. It should be a green/black or green/grey i think. It should be the same for 16v or G60. thanks guys

For mild forced induction performance a walbro inline pump would be ok. For more power Aeromotive has the A1000 unit (800hp), you really want a surge tank with this beast. The walbros inline can be bit noisy.

If you have rounded the hex then use one of those tap star looking fittings, make sure its slightly bigger, hammer it gently and try it, they can be a bastard to take off.

Looks like it worked good for you. Another option is to use an actual catch tank from Saab, I forget what part number it is but its from the turbo series.

Dont your ARP's have the allen hole on top of them? It will be kinda hard to remove the head without removing the studs off as they keep the head very tight, when you are hitting the head back-front-side to side the studs are taking out most of the impact. The arp's should be hand tight adjusted on the block when they are assembled unless they were loctited in. I would say get a big hammer and a piece of wood and lay it on the head, hit it upwards, switch sides time to time untill it lossens. If that dosent work fins a way to remove your arp's. good luck

Ok if you are local Burton Power in Ilford Essex will do them for you, they work around 120 pounds for the 16v head. I think you should still leave the rough port becasue the air will start to mix before it meets the fuel and once it does it will mix it better, maybe it will have less time to do so but I think there should be some effect. It has been shown that mirror polishing will lose flow, you want to do this on the exhaust ports as it will help reduce carbon buildup on the ports. wrcrado maybe you could take a pic of the combustion chamber, you should only smooth it over, taking out obvious bumps which are not part of the design and which will cause hot spots and detonation. Have you used your headgasket to check out the area around the chamber? Be aware that most gaskets bores are larger than you actual bore size. regards

yes you can machine the valve also, most shops wont do the valves. I have used stainless steel valves which come ready cut also with a nice cut on the throat/stem reducing the diameter meaning less obstruction. Places like TSR should be able to do that kinda job, if you are local i know a few shops in london which do valve seat jobs.

3 way angle cut valves means that the valve seat its cut in 3 angles or sometimes 5 to increase flow, you dont cut the valves. This is something very important and increases flow by quite a bit as it decreases turbulence and its something you cant get wrong. Valve seat cuts its something you CANT do youself, take it to a engine shop who specialises in this sort of work. Make sure you know what you are doing before you damage the head.

Overworking the floors of the ports could hurt flow. Porting is not something you could get step by steep instruction for but some things to look for on the 16v head when light porting the chambers is to keep a nice short turn radius on the inlet and exhaust ports. I have found good results by knife edging the exhaust dividing wall. On the inlet keep it simple with a rough finish. The chances are that if you start digging into the ports removing material you most likley will hurt flow instead of increasing it. Another thing you could do is bowl work, to smooth the transition of the bowl to the factory machine work on the port. Smooth the quench area where the combustion takes place, try not to damage the seats, use some tape to cover them, do not remove material here, just smooth rough areas to avoid knock. Also important is to get a nice transition from the quench area to where the valve seat begins, try and get them as level as possible without removing too much material. If you feel good enough you can try deshroud the valves using your headgasket mappig over the head seeing where you need to remove material to help the valves breathe better. Last thing I would suggest to get 3 way angle cuts on the seats. Without knowing where you are improving flow the only thing you could do is light work getting rid of the obvious defects. Here is a pic of a 16v head i finished a few weeks back. Hope this helps. Regards.

mate these engines are in mk2 some mk3, they are driven by mechanical pumps and have no ecu's, they are indirect injection engines. I think alex is on about these :)

Mk2 Gtd are 1.6, the engine u have its a 1.9td idi isnt it? There shouldnt be any great difference as the compression ratios are around the same. Most likley it will be a knackered part. Also the pumps are almost identical. Things which could be causing the extra noise could be: tappets crack(leak in manifold) slack in the drive belt (worn tensioner) vibrating engine parts. Just live with it its a diesel :lol:

You can leave the block in but since you are taking the gearbox out and the sump taking the whole engine will ease things alot. I like taking it off and turn it up.

That looks good enough to me but i know it wont last if not chromed. Alot of effort put in it, good work mate.

The position of the throttle before the inlet of the charger will quieten around 65-75 perecent of the noise but not completley. On iddle will be much quieter but noiticable, on full throttle with be slighlty louder but nice in my opinion. The sound comes from the internal compression of the lysholm, it escapes from the inlet and the exhaust. When you place the throttle on the inlet it gets rid of some of the noise, but the exhaust will still resonate some of the sound. On most american V8's the inlet is placed directly on the block so the sound is sucked within. I ran the lysholm both ways, silenced and non silenced, in London it def needs to be silenced, plus use an airbox. If i lived in countryside id rock it unsilenced 8) .

Greeny I think that 20vt was kinda on the expensive side thats why I it. By forced induction I mean forcing air into the engine with the aid of a compressor either a turbo or supercharger. I think alot of people underrate the 16v potential, the head flows slightly less than the 20v but with some work flow will increase greatly. The TT and the S3 engines are the same. I think you should do some more research before you spend on anything, and of course this forum helps ;)

Mate have you thought about building up the engine you have? 200hp is easy to exctract from the 16v with forced induction. If you are willing to spend 4k that should be a good price to achieve what you want with ease and have alot of potential. Oh and 2500 for a S3 engine

Turbo and 16v goes like butter and toast. I dont think is a task a beginner should take, it involves some mix matching and fabrication of certain parts in order to make a good working system. If you enjoy that go for it! As for the ecu issue if you are looking for reasonable power the digifant ecu from the G60 is good, its map sensor reads up to 200kpa or around 1 bar. With the right turbo 1 bar of boost in a ported 16v head means more power than most people would run on a front wheel drive car. I think this is a slightly cheaper way instead of going the standalone route.

Yes i agree aposegil to an extent, if you look at the function of an intercooler you will find out that air has to pass in through the gaps of the fins and remove as much heat as possible. So the more air you are passing through them the more heat you are removing which is what you want. If you have a big intercooler but not with alot of front area uncovered for the air to pass through or with it obstructed in the back it wont perform well as you are disturbing overall flow. Corrado is kinda tigh in the front with the original bumper to fit any decent sized intercooler without any trimming so i think thats why alot of people resort to using the golf/rallye intercooler. I have experimented with a few intercooler G60,rallye, porsche 944 and obviously have found good gains from the stock. I fancied the 944, i done a quick test at the time from the G60 golf to the 944 and if I remember correctly there was a noiticable difference in temp drop when using the 944 ic to the G60. The 944 was placed in the lower part of the bumper (RS). Although it was some time ago and I have no precise data to give on what the temp drop difference was I know it was enough to justify making the 944 intercooler fit :) . Some pics of how it used to fit. I also know guys using these in the original 944 and they run them up to around 380hp, its shows that that intercooler has alot of meat. I will try and get some pic of the current setup, its an all out race type, it sure looks different :lol: .

Guys cant you see this is a track car only :roll: So I guess if its not bling its not your thing? :lol: What I see when i look at those pics and spec is a low 9 sec capable car, maybe its too much car for some of you :lol:

Yes that is what im talking about, that car has still more potential in it. To be honest when u go to shows nowdays its all the same old thing, most cars are built for show. Im bored of all that, end of the day a car is to be driven, that car really belongs in the Hardcore section :)

Nice work there, not interesed in making solid ones?

The Lysholm is slimmer than the G-lader, with the right supporting bracket it will fit in the original bracket. Although you will get this with the BBM kit so no need to fabricate. When I had the Lysholm the first thing I noticed beside the noise is how smoother the engine revs all the way up to redline. The noise is fun especially if driving it in countryside roads but for everyday city driving i think its a bit loud. The silencing kit does a good job at part throttle. I suggest use the standard airbox as it will reduce noise further.

It's likley to be an earth problem, I have seen it on several corrados, on some the oil temp with lights on jups as much as 30C +.

Looks good, good job 8)

CoxyLaad pm me as i have all parts needed for the conversion (kit). I can give you a brakedownof how it goes. rgds