LowG

never used any jabba manifolds but being cast would have thought to be designed to overcome that problem :?

nice car, more pics of the headlights please :D

Ben doing what he does best 8)

those ebay manifolds can work but woulndt expect them to last too long, notorious for cracking ect. Should also mention that the design of some of them make it almost impossible to install/remove the nuts from the exhaust studs.

wanker is back :bad-words:

The new uprated turbo about to go in :bad-words:

Bit of update, got the new engine going in with a few changes. Waiting on the new turbo wheel to come from cnc shop, exhaust system finished now with a side exit. Wanted to attend the GTI spring festival but seems v unlikley to be ready :( hopefully should be ready for the later one.

:shock: Just curious, anymore info or a link? Thats a drag built corrado, corrado chasis with rwd conversion, air shift gearbox and 16v turbo runing autronic. Produces around 8-900hp and runs 7 seconds. Its from Puerto Rico.

16v power, 7 seconds :infinity:

No hope not, with twin lsd's and slicks all round the car should launch pretty good, power will be distributed almost 50-50, as you might know there are a few cars runing this system, and some run 60ft times in the low 1.7-5s. I recon that can be reduced :) The 6 speed shifter is also more precise than the 02a, combine that with a fairly low milage 02m and an optimised clutch hydraulic system makes me really look forward to trying this out.

sorry long time since i put some pics up, been very busy. Car undergoing loads of work, I have converted it to 4wd and its in the final stages of assembly. Gone with the 02m gearbox and haldex diff, custom driveshafts and fabricated mounts and boot. Many part uprated/in the process such as turbo, launch control/antilag, side exit exhaust 4", solid 16v valvetrain, suspension and more. Next in the cards its weight reduction and cage welding. Might do a 10 or 14 point cage as trying to keep weight to minimum. Decided to go 4wd for the fact that the 02m is a stronger box to start with and the car will be more sensible/safer to drive on street. Have gained more weight as a result but i keep convincing myself it will be worth it :roll: . On the track should provide good 60ft times with some sticky tires so finally will be able to lay the power down, diff lock will be controlled incar. Will put more pics up soon.

Windage tray is meant to stop the oil from sloshing as the crank turns, causing extra drag on the crank specially on high revs. I would recomend one specially on a high reving 16v motor. You can use your sump, weld a fitting on it end of story ....

DIY is always a good option as you learn best but when it comes to certain parts where precission is required Id stay away. You dont want to rebuild a turbo yourself if you never opened one, most likley you will blow it. Turbo is the heart of a forced induction engine... enough said! The oil can be taken from the right side of the head, if using non ballbearing turbo you dont need restrictior. As for oil cooler its always a good idea to have one to keep the oil temps low and help the life of bearings in turbo. Saab coolers and volvo ones are good and usualy generous in size, pick it go to hydraulic shop to get the fittings and good to go.

I understand you are on a budget and what you are trying to achieve can/will work but the overall cost i bet would be in similar figures with a lower potential. For instance you will pay 50-150 for a second hand cossie turbo then refurb it so thats another 100-300 depending who/what does it and the choice of turbo might be somewhat limited. Right there you are talking just a bit short of a new turbo which you can chose the size and trim for your specific application. I agree on the block you could use a steel/copper plate to reduce c ratio and that will be reliable for 300hp. Its true you make mistakes and you learn, but some things you gotta do right. I been there done that and I wouldnt do it again if I was in the same position. You dont have to go crazy to get a decent setup with good potential. Like the saying goes you gotta pay to play :)

Guys if you cant pay the price for a ballbearing turbo then a journal bearing will be just fine, the price difference is considerable and you can have a turbo you want by matching its flow to the engine you want to build. Why waste your time with second hand turbos that have done 100k already. Same goes with modified S2 manifolds.... If you want to build somethign properly and if are serious about what you doing you have to do it right first time end of story.\ I never saw the point of turbocharging a car if you only want 40-50hp more out of it. Oh and whats going on with the layout of this forum looks bit naked?

So after a quick think I have began work to improve the car. Not fwd anymore. Here is a run at GTi festival, I think it was a 13.4 second pass.

Hi guys, quick update. Ran the car at GTI spring festival for the first time ever. Only managed to do a best of 13.3 seconds at 114mph, this was the first run of the day by the way. The rest of the runs got worse due to problems with the gearbox and clutch. I was runing a close ratio box with open diff and street slick wheels. The clutch pressure faded from the first run ever making it very dificult to change gears causing the rpms and boost to fall out of its efficiency range. Anyhow I was somewhat happy to achieve a 13.3, even tho I was aiming for 12s with the setup I had at the time and moderate boost. I had a very hard time getting traction too, got a best of 2.1 60ft (open diff sucks). Back to the drawing board now to find a solution to improve street/track traction and overall strength.

Thats hot Ben, nice new shiny bits. The wastegate arm should be fine, looks strong enough. Looking at that makes me go down and work in the garage all night :lol: . Im looking forward to see how all the special "bits" will perform together mate, im sure you will love it. Im in line for rides and hard launches once you run your clutch in 8) Keep up the good work and thanks :wink: !

To do a 16v turbo you would need to take into account some of these parts. ECU Pistons/Conrods Headstuds Turbo Downpipe/exhaust Manifold(exhaust) Intake (short style) Race Headstuds Intercooler/piping Bov What sort of budget do you have to go towards this project? You could cut expenses if you use a G60 ecu, use a non ballbearing turbo. To build the block you are looking at 730 in parts plus labour. Please contact me if you want to dicuss this further as im not sure you are allowed to discuss it on open forum. Regards Miguel

Sorry to hear that mate, hope you find it untouched, I cant imagine what it would feel like.

To have a reliable engine with 350hp you will need to remove your old pistons and conrods and replace them with forged ones, this is the case with your KR engine or the 1.8T you might be thinking. The idea is that if you are looking to achieve 350hp means your turbocharger has to be a bit large, this means will have a bit of lag. The benefit of a bigger capacity engine relates to its ability to spool the bigger turbocharger and make boost/power sooner. So to your question of puting a 2L in I would say it might be a good idea to do so, you will change your powerband if you do meaning less lag more power in early revs and top end, you also have the option of going overbore making your 2l into almost to a 2.1. Now when it comes to gearbox ratios the TDi gears are not the perfect solution, the ratios are way too long for what you need the car to be. You also have to take into account the spooling of the turbo, if gears are too long your rpms will increase slower meaning turbo will spool slower. You have to find the right balance, if you are going to stay with your 02a box I would do gear 1-2 from VR6 and a 3.63 final drive, you can rev a 16 valve to 7500rpm reliably with good valve springs, that means with those gear ratios you should be doing around 70mph in second gear and 105 in 3rd. I believe the 02a will take the 350hp abuse but will also depend on how you drive/launch the car road type ect. I wold say find a 2l block and bore it out, install forged/larger pistons and conrods with around 9:1 compression you should be good to make good power. For the gearbox I would say if you keep the 02a, the 16v box has a 3.9 final drive, shorter gears not very ideal when you have 350hp, the G60 box has 3.6 final drive, better than 16v but too short 1-2, a balance between the VR6 and G60 would give you the right box or a VR6 box with a 3.6 final drive. Whatever box you use you need to put an LSD in it. Hope that makes it easier for you to decide, if you not clear about it we are here to help :)

Turbos range anythign from precision sc61, gt30-35r, t61 ect. They can produce high hp with low boost due to their ability to have healthy volumetric efficiency. Good flow and high rpms and appropriate turbo produce huge hp. Has he actually tested the quaife 02m box? The 02a quaife is known to be weaker. Well the G Force gears have been run in the 9 sec corrado with 750whp or so, apparently they will handle all the torque a VR6 will throw at them too :-P

Car is coming along nicley, have upped the boost and are around the 400-430hp mark still not on huge boost, there is alot to come still. Have broken 2 gearboxes already both on 3rd gears. This summer the car should be running in the 1/4 at most VW shows, the plan is to pack around 500hp with slick tyres, gearbox should be sorted by that time able to handle the power. It will be first time on the track with this setup so hopefully it will work out, shooting for low times but i have a feeling this year there will be some competition.

Back of the head is fine on any turbo on teh 16v. However Garrett Ballbearing turbos ie the GT series need an oil pressure restriction, this is a fitting that limits the oil pressure and is put inline with the oil feed line. Garrett journal bearing ie the T3/T4 turbos dont need pressure reducer, they run different bearing with different seals. Should be mentioned that letting a turbo spin freely ie no boost pipes conected is bad, also make sure boost pipes are connected nice and tight as if they pop off during acceleration you can damage the turbo as you tend to overspin it.

In stock form the big port 20v heads will flow more than the 16v head. Once you port them they become similar in performance but the 20v has the upper hand slighlty. The 16v head does not benefit from the low angle exhaust valves. A worked 16v can yield around 240-250cfm of flow, I would excpect the 20v to do a tad higher. 16v setup is the best in my opinion, honda produces some very good 16v engines that flow very very well, that is one of the reasons that when you turbocharge a honda you can see around 400whp with only 13psi. 20 valve has also got a better designed quench area, can take bit more timing before it detonates. Saying that I would still use the 16v, less moving parts, cheaper for similar performance, more cam options. Being in the small cc range we must use our engines to our advantage, meaning reving them higher. If you have a good cam and good port work reving past 7500rpm makes sense. If you want to rev to 8-9000rpm then you have to worry about valve float so a solid conversion is needed, last time I checked there wasnt such a conversion for the 20v but not sure if they are available now. Im curious to see what the new fsi 16v head flows, im sure its more than the 20v :) . The gearbox issue. This will depend on what you want to use the car for. For a road car/daily its easier to deal with 400+ hp with 4wd. The haldex system can be adapted on like few guys have done on here. The fwd 02m box is stronger than 02a, but not bulletproof, I have heard and seen 02m fail with as little as 350hp. The other option is to install race gears in the stock 02a box, G force produces 02a/02j gearsets, these have been proven to hold 700+hp in a few cars and have done 9 second passes!! g force is a big company that produces gearboxes for drag cars. Quaife is another option, noone knows the limits of what it can take but the price is heavy