GreenRado

Nah I replaced the slave during the Summer, and the master recently. I think its probably the old tube pipe feeding the master from the reservoir, but I haven't had the time to check it out.

Sold

I'm amazed this is still for sale! I would jump on it if I had the cash and didn't already have a C on the drive.

Got the one off my '93, will post a pic tomorrow

The plastic trim above the rad on the slam panel, just realised mine is missing.

In at least salvageable condition 👍

Sorry it's taken me so long to get back, the weather's been crap here for the past few days. Anyway looks like my results confirm what Vince had told you. I'm getting 3.6 bar at idle, 4.1 with FPR hose off and plugged. Residual pressure stays above 3 bar after engine is turned back off.

Have you checked the continuity of the wiring behind the fuse box, like my issue turned out to be from? Really does sound like injectors are last on the list, but from re-reading your thread it sounds a lot like my issue, especially given the seemingly random nature of the stalling and no-starts. I'll check my pressure either tonight or tomorrow morning and let you know the values I have :)

Nail on the head right there! Live and learn though I suppose! And thanks :)

Not while running, as its very quiet compared to an engine. Are you concerned that you can't hear it or that it's too loud?

You were right on the money! Decided I'd pull the fuse box out a bit to check the state of the wiring and instantly noticed a black wire fall down with a bit of solder on its end. Found a severed yellow wire on the end of a yellow connector more or less in line with the pump relay. Hey presto, holding them together and the relay clicks and she starts first time. Revs healthy, idles fine and then of course pulling the wire away and she stalls out after 10 or so seconds, with the exact hesitance she was exhibiting before. Time to get the soldering iron out and make sure that connection never comes loose again. No other loose/severed wires in sight. FYI that wiring was nothing to do with me. Oh how I wish I'd checked that sooner! :bonk:

Relay 67 turning on and off as it should, tested a 167 in there as well, same story. Checked fuel hoses on the tank and they are correct. Took a separate hose off the feed line from the tank to test and not a drop came out. I have a battery I can test the pump directly with, so I'll try that next.

Connector is getting just under 10V with ignition on and I've thoroughly cleaned both sides of the terminal with no change. Dead pump then surely?

I thought the pump shared relay 109 with the ECU?

Pressure is non-existent and now so is fuel. (Definitely just been getting worse and worse until now something has just died). Replaced relay 109 with a brand new one and still nothing. Popped off the feed hose to the fuel filter and a decent amount of fuel was in the hose. Continued to try starting with that hose off and not a drop came out. Would it be correct to assume the pump has had it? Anyone know if there's any tests you can do on it from the electrical terminals or even once removed?

Finally found a fault! She hasn't been starting at all now and decided to check for fuel again while cranking. Fuel was present, but hardly under pressure at the rail. Gonna check out the pressure properly with a gauge and see if I can narrow it down to the FPR or the Pump. The fuel filter is new, but I put that new one in when I switched tanks (old one had a leak from a weird repair), so it may have gotten plugged a bit? Fingers crossed I can find the culprit!

So the lambda sensor plug was actually fine under the silicon. Also she isn't firing from cold at all this afternoon, just endless crank. Fuel is at the rail, under pressure. Spark is present on all leads. So either MAF/ECU left to swap out? Anything else worth trying?

Hmmm, well I investigated mine and it looks like it's original? 06/93 being the date of manufacture?

This is the connector for the lambda probe isn't it (I took the pic)? I'm guessing that weird silicon all over one side of it isn't promising.

Well this morning I started her (always first time when last run was hours ago or more) waited until she cut out and wouldn't start (always not starting after cut out) and checked the ISV without unplugging its connector, and its valve was still open. Surely it would be closed if it was the problem? On a different note, she only seems to be stalling out once she's warmed up. Last 4 tests have all lasted around 10 minutes, all starting first time from cold and then not starting after a warm stall. Had another close look at the wiring and all really does look good on that front. She has only covered 1500 miles in the last 9 years, so that would surely lean more away from wiring issues wouldn't it? Reseated all fuses and relays again this morning with no change.

Yeah my friend has also told me to keep checking electrics. I'll start from scratch again and try to be more thorough. I gave my ISV a really thorough clean out with intake cleaner. I know someone nearby doing up an obd1 2.8 VR6. Would the ISV be the same/compatible off that?

All wiring looking good. Tested twice after cleaning up all connections and still no change. Still stalling out after a random amount of time with no hesitation or hunting etc beforehand, then not firing up again for a good while.

Thanks for the tip, I haven't found anything obvious on that front yet, but I'll have a proper look today. I measured the values while running with vagcom today and managed to video it as she stalled out (and wouldn't start again - crank, no fire). The video is only short, as she stalled out quite quickly. As you can see in the video, I give her a little bit of throttle and as I release she just dies: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOitC3eWSeU&feature=youtu.be I'm seeing that she died reading 12.65V. Surely this isn't the settled voltage of the battery AFTER she's died? Is it possible that the voltage regulator on the alternator is causing the varied voltage readings while running and it's actually just dying for lack of sufficient voltage from the battery?

Well she is starting up every time now weirdly, and I finally got an actual fault code when scanning after a stall! 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent Now the MAF talks to the Lambda probe doesn't it? I've heard that its often just as likely to be the MAF to be at fault in this sort of thing? Is the lambda probe only accessible from underneath the car (Is it plugged into the catalytic converter in the exhaust?

Just checked vac lines and intake and all seems fine, good call though. I got a FAE brand crank sensor from Euro Car parts. They sell 2 cheaper ones than the FAE one on there too.