GreenRado

New Crank sensor arrived and fitted. No change in behavior, although she does seem to idle even better and settles quickly from cold which is something I suppose. So still no good. Started her up on drive and after 15 minutes (revved her a couple times during this) she just stalled out and wouldn't start again. Meant to be taking her to Volksfest Wales on Sunday which can't happen if she's still doing this :( To re-cap: New battery, new starter, all earths and connections checked and looking good. Alternator also putting out 13.5-14V when running. ISV cleaned and also damper box deleted (problem occurred before I did this though.) MAF cleaned. Fuel is at rail, changed relay 109 anyway, new fuel filter. New HT leads (Magnecor) and NGK spark plugs with confirmed spark on all leads. Coil pack looks OK although cracks have formed on the plastic casing which have I've sealed. Ignition switch is new. No codes on VAGCOM, but my battery light has been on for ages (charge level is good, think it's from Alternator Voltage regulator going?-not checked yet). Only suggestion I haven't followed up is fuel injector spray pattern. Is this all I can have a look at?

That is a really kind offer! I've spoken to enough people about the resistance reading now to confirm its definitely knackered, so I've ordered a new one. Thanks again!

Grabbed a decent multimeter today as my cheapo one seemed to be giving weird readings/no readings etc. Tested the resistance of the crank sensor and it's actually in the 100-200 range, sometimes below 100. So I take it that its knackered? From what I understand its meant to read between 500-700.

Well through doing all these tests etc she hasn't stalled out once, with plenty of revving (but no actual driving for fear she will leave me stranded). So I'm not sure if the problem has been rectified or not. I gave the sensor a thorough clean and by the looks of it the sensor isn't original, so I'd lean away from that being a problem more so. Not sure where to go from here, besides just braving a trip out to see what happens...

Yeah I was aware of that already, luckily! New relay 109 has made no difference :( Can't get hold of a crank sensor to test with unfortunately either. Might have another go testing its resistance, but I've heard even when they are duff they can show good numbers...

Weirdly haven't had a single cut out while performing tests (plenty of revving, although she hasn't been driven anywhere). Earth behind battery is good. Does anyone know what resistance the coil pack should have if I test it? Or is the coilpack fine as long as I'm getting spark on all leads? Besides the injectors is there anything else I should check? Wouldn't the MAF be throwing codes if it has problems?

Getting fuel at the rail and all ht leads giving spark. I took the casing off relay 109 and it looks like new with solid connections etc. Should I still replace it? MAF and ISV already cleaned up last month (this won't have changed as I only drive her once a week at most.) I originally thought about the crank sensor, but resistance is within 500-700 and I gave it a clean anyway. Wouldn't a faulty one always give a code? I'll check those points in the morning :)

Forgot to mention filter is also fairly new (fitted before these problems started though). Should I just check for fuel at the bleeder valve on the fuel rail? I'll have to have a look into how involved the injectors are, never done anything with them before. Ignition switch was replaced less than 1k ago and recently had a look at it to make sure connection is tight. Will have a look at the electricals where you said. Is there a specific colour spark I need to look for when checking spark? Thanks for the detailed suggestions :)

This problem has been getting becoming slowly more apparent. She sometimes will crank endlessly with no actual start, happens cold or warm, although happens less when cold. Other times she starts up right away. Idle is fine at all times and engine pulls well through rev range. She is also intermittently cutting out, sometimes at a stop, sometimes at speed. Sometimes within a few seconds, sometimes a few minutes, sometimes a good drive. It takes a few seconds to actually cut out and when this happens she will still crank fine, but won't start for a good 5-10 mins. Vagcom shows no faults at all and all readings I can get off the engine when she does run look on point. Very new spark plugs, ht leads and battery. Battery light has been on for a while, but confirmed alternator putting out ~14v when engine running and battery reading 12.8v when engine off. I'm inclined to believe the battery light is on from the alternator's voltage regulator, which I haven't replaced yet (alternator is 120amp). Could these things be related? What should I check?

Dragon Green ****EDG spotted in West Wales this evening, debadged and very clean.

Might help your sale, here's a pic of my Corrado running the same wheels :

Sorry to awaken an old thread, but my MAF was causing a worse an worse idle. It got to the point where she was just cutting out on cold starts/cold days. Was getting code 533 on VCDS. Took the MAF apart and cleaned with Carb/Intake cleaner and all symptoms are gone! Now idling superbly.

One connector at the back wasn't sitting tight. Pushed it in and got the Fuse Box back in the right position and all is right with her again! Thanks for all the advice, greatly appreciated.

Turns out the spindle with the teeth on the new starter wasn't long enough. Cleaned up and greased up the old one and put that in its place and hey presto! Looks like my real issue is the fuse box connections at the rear or something. Cheers for the tip , I'll have a look what's going on and get the Fuse Box securely re-seated. In any case, most of what I didn't need to change out were original parts, so a lot more piece of mind either way! :thumbleft:

Well after checking ignition switch again I noticed the fusebox was sitting a bit far down. It looks like its broken off the bracket that holds it in place. Anyway I propped it back into where it looks like it should sit and now the car makes a sound! The problem now is that it just seems to kick in the starter motor, but the starter motor (new) doesn't seem to be engaging to the fly wheel? Here's a video as I'm not entirely sure what I'm hearing: [video=youtube;Li06h-T0kA0]

Can't say that happens really. Dash lights stay the same and nothing whatsoever happens. I have been thinking its to to with the immobilizer, but a lot of people have said it would show a fault code and that the immobilizer only shuts the engine off after a couple of seconds? Or are neither of those things necessarily going to happen?

Ignition switch is new like I said, tried wiggling it many times to no avail. I think I'll have to try the bypass to completely rule it out though, thanks! No the starter doesn't make so much as a sound. It's not even turning over. Starter motor won't do a thing.

A few weeks back I stopped in a car park to adjust my headlights and afterwards she wouldn't start. First turn would give all electrics etc and relevant lights on the dash, but not a sound on full ignition turn. Luckily my friend was out with me and we managed to jump start her. She soon after died off and we had to bump start it a few times to get the car back home. Fast forward and the Alternator has been replaced and uprated (from 70A to 120A), new battery, grounds and terminals all cleaned and also a new starter. Voltage is strong from battery and voltage can be read great at the starter terminal. (12.6V+) I also replaced the ignition switch with the last 1k miles and it is rock solid in there. Not sure if its relevant, but crank sensor is also new. She will not start whatsoever. The fuel pump primes and all electrics work, but upon full turn of the key nothing happens. Jumping won't start her. There are no fault codes whatsoever on VAGCOM. Please someone give me some hope! I don't know what else I can try.

Just upgraded to a 120amp in my VR. Like Jim said, it helps when the battery is under heavy load. If you want to fork out, VW Heritage do Special order 120amp for £210.

My mk5 golf gti is a 4 cylinder and has 5 stud wheels ;)

Funny thing with mine. My horn works fine, but I pulled off the horn cover on the steering wheel to realign the steering wheel with the wheels. Anyway I noticed that one of the wires wasn't connected to the horn (I think it was the Earth?). Anyway I plugged it back in and then the horn stopped working. Unplugged it again and now it works again...

The carpet that came with mine was really thin in my opinion and it didn't go up the arches (although carpet does cover the arches and all other areas in the boot). I got an aftermarket one from ARZ tuning which is much thicker and doesn't have the hump for a spare wheel in it (I've raised my floor instead).

Are these a straight hose swap with a standard VR? (As in non-turbo) Aren't there 2 other little hoses in this kit?

Already sorted one a few hours ago, but thanks for the offers guys.

PMd you