waynos

tried ecu and a brand new coil and the problem is still there.i cant even make it to the end of the road. if it was drive able id try and get it down to g werks or something but i cant. anyone have any suggestions at things i could try? im really starting to think about breaking the car

starts up nice, idles. i pull away slowly as i accelerate the car does the opossite then the revs just die. car cuts out. It doesnt want to restart for a couple of mins. Strange thing is if you leave it to idle it wont die, i can rev it on the spot aswell and its fine. Really lost my patience now, i cant even drive it anywhere to be looked at because i cant even make it to the end of my road. This exact same problem happened to my 16v and the mk1 golf 1.3 i used to have.Never found the cuase on those either. Thinking of goin jap now as im starting to hate volkswagen

swapped my clocks and the guages have stopped arsing about. Ive also changed the plugs and leads.Will give it another shot tommorrow. the list of changed items so far Spark plugs Ht leads Coil dizzy rotor arm dizzy cap ecu vacuum pipe earth straps fuel filter

im pretty sure the breather pipe is the brown looking one that runs up to the filler neck.bit of a fiddly job as you have to drop the tank to get to it!

anymore pics of the wheels? i think they make a refreshing change from the norm - very nice!

yea, just a coincidence mate nless you seriously butchered your ice wiring lol. I changed my gearbox the other day and now my car runs like a bag o shite - just unlucky i guess

swapped the coil, its exactly the same - fed up now. won an ecu off ebay so ill give that a go when it arrives

yea im gunna go for it,being a complete numpty i forgot which wires went where when i took the old one off.i kno the green is from the ecu so i guess that goes to the negative side and the black is ignition 12v and that goes to the positive?

im pretty sure the g60 coils are meant to be different to 16v. but ive taken mine out and it has the same part number as my 16v one.!? According to the bently manual the resistance between pins 1 and 15 should be 0.5 to 0.7 ohms im getting 1.1 the resistance between 4 and 15 should be between 3000 and 4000 ohms i get 3160 Do i have the wrong coil on the car?

right i have no breakages on the hall wiring, the coil wire is also good. checked for earths on pins 13 and 19 and they were good also. Going to swap out my coil and see if that works (fingers crossed)

yea its a bit of a trek, ive just checked my connections on the fuse box and they are fine and intact, im going to check my dizzy wiring for continuity from the plug up to the ecu connector, just to rule out any shorts or tiny breakages

would a coil from a 16v work, for some reason i have loads of those knocking about! gunna go and look for that fuse box connection in a minute.

yea, if its easier i can come collect it? i have the work van so i can take the piss a bit lol

yea mines a j plate,yea ive still got the running problem also!

right i swapped in another dizzy, The old one was a right pain to get out! dont think it was ever changed and i couldnt rotate it. I still have the mad fluctuations on my rev gauge! beginning to annoy the crap out of me.Where does the rev counter get its signal from? the coil or the dizzy? suppose ill have to check the wiring next!

thanks for that link jon, ive got a spare dizzy that i could try to rule out the hall sender as the culprit. Im just worried that if i take it off i wont get it back in the right spot! Cant help but think that the hesitation and the oddness with the gauge are related

yea maybe a coil connection seeing as the rev counter bobs up and down like that?

right here are the vids, due to it being dark you cant really see the needle move in the first vid, but if you look around the centre point of needle you can kind of tell its having a moment! ive also captured the multimeter reading the lambda voltage the other two show the revs randoms spazms lol (by the way the idle isnt that low - i didnt put the needle on right when i change over to ddi faces)

more progress, my lambda is fine! did the test again and it fluctuated from about 0.2 volts up to 0.7 and back. however as it warmed something strange was going on with my rev gauge. it was fluctuating also! no change in engine tone or anything.ill post a vid up in a sec

thats a fair comment, i wouldnt have had any but with all the problems ive had i like to keep a close eye on things. it will be improved soon hopefully

hehe, cheers for the help mate, gunna crack on with it as soon as i can!

yea, the engine was running and warmed up. gunna double check it again tomorrow. Can i use the probe at the earth the lambda is earthed to? The connector looked fine so it looks like its time to get dirty! not looking forward to that

right ive just done a quick test, probed the purple wire and put the other probe on the engine as the other lead wouldnt reach battery (-) my multimeter was set to volts (up to 2v) i was getting a figure of 0.032 up to about 0.047 . That seems low doesnt it? thats not even a tenth of a volt! Take it the lambda is kippered? is there a better place to try an earth the meter to?

and i take it the other probe goes to the nearest earth point?

the blue temperature sender was changed! even tested it and it was fine, i havent got any boost leaks and the 1m pipe is intact. cheers for the input guys. jmc that would be great if you could tell me how to go about testing the lambda