Peacedub

Hi all, As title please. Mine are driving me nuts and nearly was an MOT fail but the guy took sympathy as it was a Corrado,lol. Part no for TT - 8N2 955 408D x2 Thanks in advance

For some reason it didnt show as sold on my android. To be fair i was surprised it was stil for sale

Hi, I'll take the throttle body please. How much posted? Thanks in advance Steve

When you said £45 I knew which ones you were talking about. They have been on a while. It's very misleading. Need these wipers as mine are driving me nuts!

DAMN IT! i check everyday on parts and the day i miss these come up! boo hoo

Also after a pair of these if still available?

I have to disagree with the silicone on the exhaust. It is never meant to see that kind of heat especially on the down pipe that connects to cat. The remains of the silicone had disintegrated when touched so it was deemed useless. It is a joy at the minute and all the hard work has paid off. I've practically rebuilt the car since October so I know its on the right track to be a little cracker. I stripped the whole interior at the weekend and replaced all door clips and anything that was rattling. I rebuilt the dash and all under trays so it is proper solid now. MOT in few week so fingers crossed!

Hey guys just another update. The big C has been running like a dream since Saturdays palava (replaced MAF then dp sensor) and I am back loving it! I'd ordered an original vw lambda probe which came today so I fitted tonight. While replacing I had to take the cat off as the probe was stuck on solid. For those that have replaced these probes there is not much choice of tool to actually get in the tight space so off came the cat. While removing I unveiled yet more horrors from the previous owners who I think worked at halfords only on a Saturday! Instead of exhaust putty on the joins and donut it was silicone yes SILICONE! So off went the cat and on the vice. Probe was an original VAG unit so that was good. Replaced with new and refitted the proper way. To be fair I can't really tell a difference so I wonder if I had cured it on Saturday. At least i know the sensor is new and will last its time. Still getting the fault code 0516 (TPS potentiometer) though. It's running beautiful now so I'm just going to ignore it for the time being and enjoy my car! Hope thus thread helps you guys out there diagnose your faults, albeit you don't go to the lengths I did and it turns into an easy fix. Thanks for all your help and comments

Yeah I've tried that too with other combinations but it's just random. It worked once yesterday then stopped. the full closure works but not the c/l and the wiring ok so must be the pump. Got a replacement coming tomorrow so fingers crossed.

Well I wish I had that kinda luck! Have you read my update and dramas that happened on Saturday? I've had a serious amount of bad luck with this car but I WILL NOT BE DEFEATED! The dp regulator must have gone that morning as it was all good day before. If your MAF was out of spec on the low side i personally would adjust using the trim. Mine was high so I needed to unscrew in which I think I pooped the screw off as I went too far. If you are low then you will be tightening so no chance of that happening oh and you were right about the screws hidden on each side under rock hard silicone. Must be covered good for a reason! On the other hand if your car is running good then I would leave it,lol. These cars have a tendency to self destruct by just looking at them.

I was thinking it could be the pump, the wiring seems all good and im getting the voltages at the connectors. The wiring to the drivers door handle is missing but still (when it was working) locked the passenger, boot etc. I just find it strange that when i disconnected the battery then connected back up 2 hour later it the c/l worked once then never again so its intermittent somewhere. First step is a pump for cheap to test

I know this has been brought up like a million times but i just cant get my head round it. The central locking om my late spec 92 C was all working hunky dory up until a few week back with the exception to drivers door key. Passenger would lock all doors. I took the drivers door apart and tweaked with the lock pin and actuator and found that the door pin was stopping the pin from clicking the acuator. After a bit of fiddling I got it to work from the drivers door so all was working good. I did notice that the door handle didnt have the wiring and connector going to it and the connecor part was plugged into the part that clips to the door with the wires cut? I have an alarm and immobiliser fitted so thought that they had bypassed the handle electrical connection and just gone straight off the actuator signal? anyway i disregarded it as it was working up until the other day when everything stop working even on the passenger side. I have tested the door connections and pump and have 12v to all. I disconnected the battery for some time to do some work in the engine and when i connected back up i have to disarm the alarm with the fob and noticed the central locking worked on and off then completey stopped working after that and have never been able to replicate it again. in the process of trying to fix the drivers side i broke the plastic door lever that the pins attach to that goes to the locking mechanism :bonk:. had a look at these and they are not cheap are they!! I slight bit of reading for ya's and just wondering if anybody had the same? dont really want to be buying a new pump if thats not the cause. Didnt hear the pump try to run when activating the actuator, i heard it click with the pressure applied t by pushing up and down so i know the pump is receiving pressure. What does the door handle connection actually do?

If it's an ABF you had then it's completely different MAF. 9a's have a sealed unit that you can't get into only allowing you to adjust. The readings taken from my new unit are bang on so I know it's doing its job correctly. Thanks for the info anyway :thumbleft:

Well that was an eventful afternoon! The car decided to do its bunny hopping trick all the way home and took nearly an hour to do 7 mile! Got the mighty bible out again to try and figure out what the hell was going on. Apparently when your car goes into limp mode...if that's what you call it more like crippled mode, it's the differential pressure module telling the ECU it has a fault SO i shall start on that. I disconnected the connector while at idle. Revs pick up and sits nicely with no backfiring so i do my tests on dp module and guess what? The new metering head I got has a duff dp module :bonk:. So I swapped with my old one and now it's running really good, better than it's ever been but still got fault code 516 and occasionally 525. New VAG lambda on its way, if this doesn't cure it then I'm going to break it. As I go through the car fixing faults I can see on everything I rectify that some muppet has had his hands there. Some of the quick fix bodges is beyond belief and these people should be shot for their crimes to classic vdubs.

Yup i hear ya. Just bought this off Ebay this morning which i thought what damn good price! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151257951807?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Had a fun drive in to work this morning. Started up lovely, got it up to temp and it struggled to reach 4k rpm backfiring all over but as soon as it did hit 4k it nearly broke my neck and was up to redline in no time so top end was good! so i limped and bunny hopped down the drive into work (a little embarrassing).left to idle and it just died. Fired it straight back up and sweet as a nut. Must be Lambda sensor, plus my mpg was extra shocking. Timing, mpg, backfire... its got to be lambda? i did remember though not seeing an earth coming from the connector on the engine mount. The investigation continues!!

Thought these were a bargain so i thought i would share with you all. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-VW-Corrado-1-8-2-0-G60-16v-Lambda-02-Sensor-037906265B-/151257951807?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2337ad2e3f

Hi all, Just an update. Received new metering head today and fitted. Checked output of MAF and reading within spec 0.7Vdc. I believe now I need a new lambda because it still brought up fault code 516 (Tps) & 525 (02 sensor). The 525 cleared but then comes back. Also depending on ignition timing depends on when it back pops on down revs between 2-1k rpm. If it's at idle at 950rpm it back pops a lot and sounds like I have a race cam in but if I adjust the ignition timing so idle above 1000rpm it's really smooth BUT keeping it there I lose power just like when you advance and retard a cam, same theory really with the ignition timing. I get good top end when it's at low idle rpm but really bad power low down and vice versa when timing adjusted to idle over 1000 rpm. Hope all that makes sense? Going to borrow mates C02 probe and see what's going on. On a good note the new head has really made a difference with the idle, it's steady as a anything without a murmer. Do I need to leave the timing and let it adjust on its own? I know it's not good if you keep adjusting it. I just want it back the way it was when it was wanting to wheel spin everytime it hit 3.5 - 4k rpm and kept going to redline!

see my thread, not cured but similar findings. Need a new MAF but hopefully be here tonight in the post1 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=89926 The 9a has a TPS potentiometer underneath the throttle body out of sight, you need to remove tb to get at it. You should here a click when you move the throttle from idle and another click when moved back. I have all fault finding in my thread. Disconnect connecter at side left of throttle body and do som resistance checks to check the TPS is doing what its suppose to at idle and full throttle. i.e open/closed depending on position of throttle. also possibility of ISV and temp sender. Does the ISV buzz when running? any change when disconnected? I was getting same fault code but its my MAF potentiometer thats duff (all in above thread). Will have a look at bentley book tonight and see what the tests with multimeter readings should be (2 min job) thats if you have a multimeter,lol

Do you have 2x2 diagnostics? i.e obd reader under the gaitor to bring up fault codes. Not sure you might if its a transplant block. if you have and you havn't got the connectors then i have a method pulled from bentley to read codes with an LED light and some wire! Some checks under the bonnet with a multi meter would be good. Cold start, differential pressure regulator, temp sender and even MAF potentiometer have influences on ignition timing and fueling mixtures. I will have a look in the book tonight and see if there is a diagnosis for the symptoms you have

Dont think i will try remove any part of it. To me the whole metering head looks like a delicate bit of kit so will just keep hold of it for spares, i.e dp regulator and airbox. Once off though i will give it a good once over and see if it is possible to remove from the outside but i definitley dont want to be messing about inside the unit. Hopefully new unit will be here tonight so will do the same check on that and update with pics of readings (thats if its all good and in spec,lol)

Ok guys here it is. My new metering head hasn't arrived yet but my ABS sensor did so after I fitted that I created this catalogue. And just to add what a byatch the sensor was to do! Metering head (to the left the white plug for MAF) http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/45fa74c3f25d78429d32fb03d852ac81_zpsc2feae3b.jpg[/img]"]http:// The MAF plug disconnected http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/b0d0fbcee95520376abdca52e779897b_zps7e45db15.jpg[/img]"]http:// Ignition on input reading pins 1 & 3 (I said 1&2 before my bad) http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/7cee0bea800576b909244d5f550e43fd_zpsc695cfbd.jpg[/img]"]http:// MAF potentiometer (the hole to the left is where the trim screw should be, notice mine hasn't got 1! This should be covered in silicone originally and once trimmed be siliconed back up) http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/8a35c2923a4c828562041aec81f595b5_zps1666a40e.jpg[/img]"]http:// Connected back in MAF. Protective boot pulled back and take readings from pins 2&3 while engine running and at idle for 2 mins http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/3993fb3edb312fe44236dfd16d85039c_zps48b2876b.jpg[/img]"]http:// I was getting no reading meaning its duff but I was getting 1VDC before http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/0af1f87cf2d332ff7ca434476d32f037_zpsaf01c55d.jpg[/img]"]http:// The graph in Bentley. 4.8vdc input should get between 0.48vdc and 0.82vdc so mine before destruction was way out http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/a0a67617a777d57a2918fac7eeb76fa1_zps99727b55.jpg[/img]"]http:// Bentley guide http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s441/sparkypeace/corrado%20maf/3b79f37e3d688e36cfabaf2cc0adedbc_zps34482e46.jpg[/img]"]http:// I hope this gives you guys a good guide to testing your valver if it's running a bit rough. It takes literally 2 mins to do and is well worth doing if you think it might be something else like I did, i.e ISV or idle switch

Yes indeed! it ran like a dream!! it still wasnt right and not in spec but felt a million times better than before hence why i tried tweaking a bit more. Just imagine what it would have been like if i would have got it in spec?? Hopefully my new unit will come today or tomorrow. I will do the same test on new unit and catalogue pics of how i did it

Good thread and very similar to corrado. Maybe you can strip down the MAF potentiometer but i dont think i would like to try it! i think you would have to strip the whole metering head to get to the inside like what the picture shows but again i wouldnt like to try. That graph is the one thats in the bentley but i believe its slighty different but in very very slighty. where 4.8vdc shows 0.8vdc ish outout and i was getting 1.0vdc output which is way off the scale. i will get a pic tonight of what i did as those pics on audi are not very clear. I plan to do the injector test on mine, i think the difference in his complete test is that is was done on a 5 pot motor Just read replies further down. The ones that you can gain access to (MAF) are ones without an idle screw so adjustment is made within the unit i believe. Does not applies to us

Yeah I know, but it's a really sensitive bit if kit so probably for the best That it's sealed. The input voltage is to power the sensor and is tested by disconnecting the lead and taking a Vdc reading from pin 1&2 on the lead connector and should be 4.5vdc to 5.5vdc. The output voltage is what the maf potentiometer converts as a signal output and is measured by plugging the connector back in to the maf, pulling back the rubber boot which protects the leads connections at rear, place 2 probes from fluke into pins 2&3 with ignition on and you should see a low voltage reading. From memory 4.5vdc - 5.5vdc equates to minimum 0.2vdc - 0.85vdc output if this makes sense. I was getting 4.8vdc input from connector disconnected then when plugged it back in i should have been seeing between 0.4vdc - 0.8vdc but I was seeing 1.0vdc meaning the maf was ****ed cis it would not trim anymore. I will get some pics up this week of the table and pictures of where and how.

If your having the same issues as me then I would check the MAF. It is a sealed unit so cannot be replaced unfortunately. It's the unit to the left front of metering head. The right is the differential pressure and left rear Is carbon canister. If you want to check the MAF you need to disconnect the plug and check pins 1&2 on plug itself with ignition on, it should read 4.5vdc and 5.5vdc. If you have that then thats the input all good. Then you need to plug back in and it's best to lift the airbox out so you can see the connector properly. Pull back the boot covering the back of connector to see the wires. I used 2 probes from a fluke in pins 2&3 to check the output vdc. I was getting 4.8vdc (pins 1&2 plug disconnected) input which converts using Bentley table to between 0.45vdc & 0.8vdc (pins 2&3 plug connected) and I was get close to 1.0vdc. So to the left of connector is some black silicone which needs to be removed to reveal a trim screw. Adjust according to get the right results and don't do what I did and break it!! It's properly backfiring all over and getting 99.9mpg ha ha ha. If you don't have Bentley I will take photos and post. I got close to 0.8vdc and took it for a spin. It pulled off great with no bogging down, went through the Rev range sweet with Rev gauge dropping properly. It felt really good. But I just wanted that little but more and broke it!