Will

My VR's just failed its MOT on the emissions and they also pointed out a missfire, which I was already aware of. Anyway, it turned out the missfire was down to a broken plastic ignition lead insulator on the coilpack - it was arcing between the lead and the metal body of the coilpack. My question is, if the engine is missfiring, does the car automatically run in 'limp mode', or whatever it's called. I've quite often had 'intermittent signal - lamda probe' thrown up on VAG-COM and have even changed it but it didn't solve the problem. I was thinking that maybe the ECU senses a missfire and sets the car to run rich automatically - does anyone know if that's the case? Obviously the emissions should be improved now as the fuel in the offending cylinder is now being properly burnt, but it was quite over the maximum levels out and I only get one free retest!! Thanks in advance.

Good point - I would've had to have done something seriously wrong for oil to be leaking past the gasket at this rate, though... and it's pretty clean still around there, plus I changed it in November and it's only started doing it v.recently. Reckon pooling is definitely a very likely reason - hadn't even thought about it like that - so will get under and have another good look tonight!

Sorry, RHS from inside the vehicle - so left when viewed from the front. There's an oil trail when I maneuver the car out of the drive about a foot or so in from the side of the car. Thing is, it's only done it very recently a few times and stops quickly (otherwise I'd have an empty oil system) so I can't replicate it. Also, there's no obvious sign of oil leaking that quickly from that area of the engine and it's pretty clean around there as I changed the sump gasket not long ago. It's definitely engine oil - so I can only think maybe the crankshaft seal on that side. By why does it clear up after a few seconds and even then only do it randomly?

Anyone?

Haven't been driving my VR much of late and noticed an oil leak on RHS of the engine... Had a good look underneath but can't see where it's coming from. Only seems to occur randomly - when it's been standing for a while and then clears up. Am selling the car so want to get it sorted asap for obvious reasons. Was thinking maybe the crankshaft seal on the aux-belt pulley but has anyone had similar issues from that side of the engine?

..and you're ten years older than me!! that is a worry! :lol:

Definitely. Less body roll, so rather than leaning more you lose the back. 205s only a problem if you lift off or brake mid corner though. Keep your right foot planted and it'll pull you out of most things. Like you say though Double-6, you need a lot of balls and the older I get, the smaller mine are becoming!!

I'd third that. The VR6 was designed to be very good in pretty much every area. EVO (for) still to be bettered for all round ability and appeal - (against) errr. It's a very good handling car, great on motorways, fast in a straight line, refined, comfortable and looks damn cool (IMO) - that's what makes it's appeal so unique. The 205 on the other hand was primarily designed to drive and handle fantastically well on the typical B-road. That's why it's hateful to drive on the motorway, (twitchy, loud and more importantly, bloody dangerous!) From my experience the difference isn't really apparent on fast sweeping curves. On a track like the Top Gear one the 205 would be easily beaten due to the C's extra grunt. It's on the really twisty stuff that the Pug is in a league of its own IMO - i.e. changing direction quickly - and that's primarily down to the weight advantage. But hey, like I said it's possible I have a prob with my VR! Only reason I mentioned the 205 in the first place is 'cause (1), it's the only other car I've owned and (2), it's IMO a benchmark for FWD cars of the era (although I haven't driven them all personally of course!)

Seems to have all kicked off in here then!! - haven't been on since this since this morning. I've had both cars - 205 (ages 17-22) and VR (22-24). Bought the VR6 as an UPGRADE from the 205 so definitely see at as much the better car overall (Looks, build quality etc etc, etc, etc, but it's ok to miss certain things about a previous car I reckon. The c's essentially a chassis designed at the same as the pug with similar suspension and a lot more weight. What could possibly make it handle better?? Not that that's a bad thing because the 205's one of the best handling cars around IMO. My flatmate from Uni's owned a MKII 16v for years and loves it to bit but ask him which car is fastest on a twisty road (he's driven mine a lot), and he'll painfully admit it's the pug. I love the c to bits and wouldn't part with it but that doesn't mean i'll let that cloud my judgement (if I can help it). Finally. The talk about BHP per ton is surely only relevant when talking about accel?? - and there can be no arguement there!!

1.9GTI's kerb weight is 870kg - reckon you'd have to do some serious modifications to make a C handle as well. The C has it beaten in almost every other area though so can't seriously see myself going back as an everyday car. Quaiffe'd be lovely Kev - spending's got to stop somewhere though! Reckon I'll book it into Stealth in a month or so and try a bit less negative camber, maybe -1 and see how that goes.

Just had a look at the allignment print out - pretty sure I asked for -1.40 but the final settings at the front were -1.25 (left) and -1.18 (right). Do you think a bit more negative would improve the turn in?

It seems understeer without putting the power down, gets much worse if I do obviously. Just feels a bit disconnected - wouldn't feel confident driving it fast down a narrow country lane if you know what I mean... Sounds like a good idea to go for a spin in another or get someone to drive mine and see if i'm moaning about nothing. Where's this No-Rice?

Sorry, yeah forgot to mention I changed all those parts when I did the suspension last year.

Ok. Had my VR6 for almost 2 years and love it to bits, (bar a couple of gripes). Main thing that's bugging me at the moment is handling... All reviews I've read tout the VR as one of the best front-drive handling cars ever, (even though they were written ten + years ago). Can't say I'd agree from my experience. Don't get me wrong, it's still better than a lot of cars it's just I expected better. So, trying to work out if it's a problem with mine in particular. It understeers when being pushed at all through corners, and the feedback's not great. I know it's a heavy/powerful engine but still... It's not the tyres (Bridgestone RE720s, 5 months old), and it's also lowered with Bilsteins/H&R springs, had the rear axle bushes done and been laser alligned/camber adj. recently. Anyone recommend looking at anything else...? There's no knocking or excessive play in the steering/susp. Had a 205gti previously and hate to say it but starting to miss it. Vaguely thinking of going backwards - maybe with an mi16 engine. Am I mad? Thanks guys.

Thermostat's a quick job, but you'll lose a lot of the coolant as have to break the system. Would be worth draining from the bottom rad hose then re-using if you just changed it. You can get the thermostat from GSF if it's faulty but the o-rings and gasket are VAG only but not expensive. Not sure about cap - try the GSF website but I imagine it's VAG only.

Had the geometry setup on my C yesterday but was told one of the track-rods is slightly bent, which made it impossible to get a completely accurate tracking setting. The garage said if I get it changed they'll set it up again free of charge so me question is - what's the job of changing a track rod like. If it's easy, something I could do in 2/3 hours then I'll do it tomorrow as have the day off, otherwise I'll prob end up waiting 'till next summer... Thanks for any advice

Regarding the thermostat - Easy to check. Undo the three hex bolts on the thermostat housing and take it off. Then take it apart (more hex bolts). Pull out the stat, put it in a saucepan of water then onto the hob. Watch it and you'll see it open up at about 80degrees - if not then it'll need replacing. You'll need to replace the o-ring gaskets when putting the thermostat housing back but they're only a quid or so each. Had/have a similar prob with mine. Flushed the radiator (only a year old), rest of the system, checked thermostat, checked all hoses for blockages, filled with high concentration g12. Still seen temps of 110 in traffic. Was 120 at times before but not sure if the lower temps are because of winter or an improved cooling system.

The car's a '93 so I'm guessing the earlier type. Strange thing is I disconnected the battery overnight and the ABS, then measured the voltage from the plug feeding the ABS warning light and it seemed to be working. So, I put the light back in, turned the ignition on and it worked! Only thing is it goes out once I disarm the immobiliser. Anyway, took it back to the garage and they passed it and the ABS kicks in fine when I stamp on the brakes. Guessing it's possibly a wiring fault somewhere but think I'll leave it alone until it becomes a problem again.

pm sent

Just took my VR for an MOT and it failed on the ABS warning light not coming on. I had a problem with a rear sensor a while back which meant the light didn't go out but now it doesn't come on when the ignition's turned on. I thought it might be the bulb so took the light out of the dash but it's soldered to a circuit board. I have enquired about replacing the unit but VW want £100! No way I'm paying that for an ABS light - especially when I don't know for sure that's the problem! Has anyone else had a similar problem or any ideas...? Thanks.

Sorry to revive this thread, but does anyone know where I could get hold of suitable pressure gauges for the job...? Thanks

Hooked my C up to VAGCOM a couple of days ago to try and source the reason for my ABS not working. Anyway, the right rear sensor was the fault, so I stripped that side down and took off the disc. Couldn't get the old sensor out easily so ended up driving it out with a screwdriver but am now unsure how to fir the new one. It won't simply push in and I don't want to drive it in as they're quite fragile. Has anyone had this problem? Thinking maybe filing the edges of the hole might help?

What it is basically is a small spot of rust under the seal. I want to get rid of it ideally before it spreads and I have to replace the hatch. Very tempting - still got to get it sprayed though... and that means the window out.

Does anyone know the best way to remove the rear windscreen on the Corrado? I remember having a windscreen replaced in a previous car and the guy pulling a wire round the edge somehow.... Also, another quick question. Does anyone know of a company that mixes paint aerosols. My paint colour seems pretty rare and can't get hold of the colour anywhere! Tried VW but the colour they ordered was way off plus the can was about the size of a lynx de-odourant - Was thinking it's maybe been resprayed but pulled the carpet back and the colour's exactly the same underneath so I doubt it has.

Pretty sure they're standard VAG. I haven't changed them because the previous owner had them done a couple of years ago. Having said that, the work wasn't done at the stealers so slim chance they could be GSF. Checked the discs but any VW markings they might be are covered by rust. Could be worth changing, possibly with the bias valve...? Do agree with the points about progressive braking, I personally prefer them a bit more sensitive, but I've tried stamping hard on the brakes a few times to check this and the stopping power just doesn't seem to be there. It's not by any means dangerous, just doesn't inspire me with confidence. Had two 205GTIs before the C and have to say, although they were older I always thought the brakes were very good with no mods at all and pretty sensitive too so don't think I'm being over fussy. Having said that, like Lukeage pointed out, 205s are a hell of a lot lighter!