Will

Right thanks, doesn't sound too promising then! I'll get the compression tester out tomorrow morning...

Just been reading some of the threads on reasons for smoking VR6 engines. Had mine for over a year now and it has been a bit smokey on occasion from day one but it's getting worse and think I'm going to tackle the problem in the next couple of weeks. Thing is, the car doesn't smoke on idle, mostly hard acceleration but every now and then I see random plumes of smoke in the mirror when just driving along normally - then nothing again for ages. It does drink a lot of oil and 1 or 2 of the spark plugs are wet but the water never needs topping up. Is there anyway I can tell if it's valve seals or something more worrying like piston rings..?

Sounds probable then... Was it the rear sensors that went on yours by any chance?

I finally got my VR6 back on the road yesterday after several months of practically restoring the thing!! Anyway, everything seems okay apart from the brakes which work ok until i slow down till approx 5mph. The pedal suddenly judders for a couple of seconds like the ABS is kicking in then the pedal falls slightly. The ABS light also comes on at random times as well but disappears when i turn the engine off then back on so i was thinking maybe a wheel sensor but would this cause the above? Wondering if anyone else has experienced anyhting like this..... Thanks!

Does anyone know of a garage in the South East that offers 4 wheel allignment. I've moved my axle mounting brackets so need it..... Tried a couple of VW garages and they're asking £180!! - Have also phoned Stealth but they can't do it. Thanks for your help.

Just wondered, does anyone have a photo of the rear bias valve connected up on a Corrado VR6? Need a bit of help connecting it all back up. Thanks

It's not difficult (in theory). The only thing that can be a pain is getting the driveshaft out of the hub as they can be v.tight, I had to make up a tool 'cause light hammering didn't work. Boot kit contains everything you need. - Strip down the front and take the hub off, (you'll prob need a spliiter to get the ball joint and track rod end off). - Leave the driveshaft on the car and cut the boot off. The joint just needs a few taps to knock it off but make sure you hold the shaft so you don't knock the inner joint out. -Clean it up or replace with fittings if it's knackered then fit the new boot on the shaft followed by the joint. -Grease up the joint and fit the other end of the boot (with pliers or wire cutters, not too sharp though) then re-assemble, that's pretty much it! You should really use a torque wrench that goes up to 195 ft/lbs for the hub nut but I just used a scaffold pole on a 3/4" drive and guessed. 2.5/3 hours I reckon if nothing major goes wrong, less for a garage of course.

Had to cut off the bias valve when changing the axle bushes, nightmare :!: Anyway, I'm in the process of fitting the new one but just want to double check which brake lines go into which of the four holes..... I can't see a diagram in Bentley and have got a good idea but don't want to connect it up wrongly. Does anyone have a diagram or any useful info?? Thanks a lot.

I mean the second....

Does anyone know which way round is right? Assuming it's the first one but stupidly I didn't mark them.... :oops: Cheers

The rears are ceramic but the fronts are the older model and standard compound so maybe not too bad then.....

Tried to get them originally but GSF had run out in every branch and said it could be up to a couple of months before they ordered them. Will give them a call to check cause it was about a month or so ago. Thanks

Did originally order greenstuff and EBC phoned me to say they would reccommend red stuff pads because of the performance of the car. They were only a fiver more for both sets so went ahead with them but don't like the thought of no brakes if they're cold cause I don't always drive like a nutter :lol: Might just stick them on ebay and then get some OE or pagid fast road pads unless anyone has a good experience with them....

Stripped my front suspension down recently and the found the spacer was missing! Doubt this is the cause, would be worth taking them off, replacing the mounts and checking everything is assembled properly. Only going to improve the handling anyway and v.cheap for the mounts...

Has anyone had experience with EBC red stuff pads. Bought a couple of sets for my VR6 but haven't fitted them yet cause I've heard a few horror stories about them being terrible unless you're track racing etc. Guy on the phone from EBC said it's a myth because they are designed to operate at the same temperatures as standard pads. but I suppose he would say that...

haven't had a chance to put it back together yet as been away all week. Just realised I've made a schoolboy error and forgotten to mark the positions :oops: Just wondering which way round the hub goes. I know it won't be perfect as the cage and hub are unlikely to match up but I'm sure this won't matter too much? Does the hub (joint1.jpg) fit with the flat side, (left side in the picture) facing the outside of the joint.....(if that makes sense :roll: ) Sorry for the silly question

Yeah the balls are fine so I think I'll stick it back on. Thanks for your help with this!

Do reckon these look okay? Will replace the joint today if not..... Sorry about the pic size, couldn't see the detail if I went lower.

Yeah i've cleaned it up and some of the surfaces are shiny but I wouldn't say they are that bad. Just don't want to put it back together then find out it's knackered cause had some knocking from that side but have just changed top mounts, ball joints and ARB link rod and haven't driven it since so could already be sorted.. The knocking seemed to happen along when driving normally, not accelerating/braking/corner so is that likely to be a driveshaft joint? Thanks again

I've taken the outerjoint off to change a split boot and am wondering how to check if the joint's knackered. Cleaned it all up as bentley suggests and the ball bearings are perfect, however there is a polished appearance on the surfaces but no deep tracks or cracking around the edges of the bearing cages. Not really sure how much wear constitutes as 'excessive' and was wondering if anyone has any advice? Can post photos of the joint if this would help.... Thanks

That's hopeful anyway, at least if i have probs drilling it I won't need a new hub as don't really fancy getting into front bearings etc unless I have to. Will try to lever the ring, guess I'll get error codes if the ABS isn't working proberly.... Cheers for your help.

Stripped down the front suspension on my VR6 last weekend to paint up the callipers and change the ball joints etc but noticed the ABS ring behind the hub is warped (both sides) and catches on the sensor when it spins. Is there any way of getting the hub off without the 6 or 7 tools Bentley shows? Has anyone made something up for the task? Also the disk locating screws (again both sides) have been snapped off and not replaced by the muppet who worked on the car before I had it. I'm planning to drill them out and re-tap the thread but wondered how important they are as it would save me a lot of hassle to leave them as they are... Cheers for any advice.

I had exactly the same prob a couple of weeks ago and was saying exactly the same thing about those s*dding allen key bolts. The way I got them off was using a centre punch on the side of the bolt head to start it off, need to give it a good whack with a club hammer though (not goos when your fingers are a couple of inches away :x . After that use an allen key socket if the hex isn't too badly rounded otherwise mole grips will do.

Yeah it does seem like there's minimal adjustment, (only by twisting the bracket on it's bolts.) Just wondered why Bentley seemed to make such a fuss about it. Said something like 'Never remove the axle mounting brackets when removing the axle assembly' and to get the toe checking if you have to for some reason.

Does anyone know where I can get a guide bolt for the rear calliper carrier on my VR6? Only one is damaged and the stealers only sell the whole carrier for £50!!! Is it the same as a MK2/MK3 so possibly scrappy?