Etino

I checked it today, the wiring in the boot was in good shape but I actually found the problem. It was the lighting connector for the cassette storage box or gauges(depending which option), it's pre-wired but in my case not in use. Some one snapped the connector off, and put some non isolated push on terminals on the wires, they dropped and made short circuit with each other or the body so the fuse would blow.

Thanks, didn't check that yet, I will do it tomorrow.

Hello all, I have a problem with my 1992 early VR6, my fuse 16 always blows when I put it on ignition. On a lot of sources I found out the fuse protects the spoiler, gauges in center console(which I don't have), glove box light, dash warning lights and MFA. Some sources also state the sunroof, number plate lights, clock and rev gauge works via fuse 16. But the strange part, sunroof, MFA, warning lights, number plate lights, clock, rev gauge does still work. What doesn't work, is the spoiler, but also the ABS light doesn't turn on. When I replace the fuse, put it on ignition, the ABS light does turn on, and one second later the fuse blows and the ABS lights doesn't turn on. I pulled the connector from the spoiler, spoiler control module, spoiler switch, ABS light, ABS computer, pull the lights from glovebox and trunk. And still it blows fuses like no other, does someone has any clue where to look next? Thanks.

I'm also hoping for this, have 3 houses in great shape but none good shaped lenses, and reflectors would be awesome too. Most of all times the reflector is burned to bits, and the lenses are stone-chipped to hell but both parts is hard to find especially both sides.

To be honest, it isn't the most useful option, got the electronic height adjustment option on my Corrado and Golf Mk3, but I actually never use it Which options do you got on the C?

Optional, and I believe quite rare, don't know if they are more common in the VR6. Adjustments work via a turning knob, next to your headlight switch. Shown here: [ATTACH=CONFIG]81337[/ATTACH] By the way, just a warning, if you disassemble your headlamps, don't try to get the white knobs out if you don't have to! I disassembled 2 headlamps with them, and both cracked while trying to pry them out with my fingers.

Screw on the back is a mounting screw, only adjustments goes via the big white knob for height, and the gear-ish screw for horizontal adjustments. Corrado's with electronic height adjustment, have a motor instead of a knob, but have a large brown sprocket on the back of the motor which is also for adjustments.

Actually, Wilco from Dutchbuild has a lot of experience with Synchro/Haldex conversion on Mk2's etc. He says you have two options, cheapest/fastest option, cut the spare wheel out and weld a plate in, and welding in a rectangular profile which supports the 4x4 mounting points, this option also needs a different petrol tank, most likely a aluminium one in the boot. Other option is handy when you want to keep it original (looking), is indeed a Mk2 or Passat Synchro boot floor including the petrol tank I believe.

I'm not sure if someone replied to this, but it's cheaper to design and manufacture one set for both LHD and RHD(just like VW did). Also, in the Netherlands it's illegal to have two working fog lights at the rear, because they are bight, they can be mistaken for brake lights. I'm guessing it's the same in the UK, we also got the fog light at the left instead of the right because road position. Awesome to see you got rid of the magnifier problem, I got the same strange feeling about the stock driver mirror. My Golf Mk3 doesn't have this problem but I'm not sure what type of mirrors it has. Now it's deciding if I'm going for a set of blue ones or clear ones, probably going to be blue ones, my car is blue so it will fit them nicely. If I'm not mistaken, the heated mirrors work via the rear window heater, but I'm not to sure about this. Great looking car, keep us posted :thumbleft:

Well, some people may recognize this, I sure do: [ATTACH=CONFIG]81323[/ATTACH]

Really nice work on the mirrors, looking great! This is something I need to do myself, but I'm not to sure about getting the normal ones or the blue versions. Did you notice any differences besides the look of them? One positive thing I can imagine, is that the lights of others are less irritating at night.

A small update from my side, had a cabin filter kit laying around for a Mk2 Golf which I wanted to fit in my Corrado. But when I tried to find a replacement filter, I couldn't find one, last night, I checked the box and found the manual with the part number in it. Felt quite stupid because I didn't check the manual in the first place :bonk: But it's in and didn't had much play in it because the ECU loom and the metal plate above it, ah well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]81318[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81319[/ATTACH] If someone has a A 301 laying around, filter part number is 1 987 431 011, base itself is 1 987 431 511-44N(or called A 301). Also put the cluster back in the car, looking great, my petrol meter is working again :D [ATTACH=CONFIG]81320[/ATTACH]

So, today was the big day, bearlock is locked and loaded. Went in perfectly, will post some pictures later on. It's a Golf 3 TDI lock, which fits multiple VW's. Here is the picture of the Bearlock itself, if someone wants a demonstration, let me know ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]81296[/ATTACH] Also rebuilt my instrument cluster to a US spec, wasn't a direct swap because it wasn't a MFA or G60 one but a VR6 Passat cluster. So I put the MPH speedometer in my old cluster, and put the US faceplate of left cluster on my old one, which wasn't a direct fit. My cluster is/was a VDO one, US spec was a Motometer, so the left cluster had bent taps instead of screw holes. With a bit of imagination and some double sided tape and masking tape it fits all snugly. The MFA is probably the same on the US spec version except for fahrenheit while I'm now having Celsius. It doesn't really bother me while I have actually no clue how hot 160 or 230 fahrenheit is, so having the MFA still in Celsius is better for me while watching the oil temp. Also the fuel level isn't directly correct, it's a 70 liter or 18 gallon cluster while I need a 55 liter or 15 gallon cluster. [ATTACH=CONFIG]81297[/ATTACH] Maybe when the car is all done and stuff, I will get a true US/UK spec instrument cluster. This one has a cracked window and I actually want a newer type with the mileage in a screen instead of rotating wheels. But what I really like is the separate turn signals, but not digging the extra work or money for a new type clock for now.

I'm not sure where he lives, I believe the car is in his garage next to his house, so I don't know. Before I actually bought my Corrado, I went to another Corrado which had a 2.0 16V and was Flash Red, while I love red Corrado's, that one was to far gone for my liking. Almost bought a green VR6 but the guy didn't respond anymore till a month later, but before he responded again, my patience was lost and I found this US G60, so I went for this one. I really like Tornado Red on older cars, my mom has a Tornado Red B4 Passat, before that, she had a Tornado Red Mk3 Golf. Before that, she had a red Polo 6N, but it wasn't Tornado Red, but Flash Red. Still awesome, but not so awesome as Tornado Red imo. A Tornado Red Corrado VR6 is one of my must-have cars, probably imo one of the best color code for a Corrado.

Thanks, awesome to see another US G60, I don't spot em that much on the internet. I actually have a soft spot for white Corrado's, so awesome, actually first Corrado I have sat and co-driven in was a white one, built for circuit use but still street legal. Pretty known in the Netherland, it's showed on a couple meetings, it's owned by Herm Schreurs, by that time it had a 300hp 16VG60, now a R32: [ATTACH=CONFIG]81226[/ATTACH] Thank, will do, but it will be slow and steady ;) Corrado is going to a Bearlock install garage on the 9th of April, will keep you guys posted, in case someone want's a mechanical anti-theft solution.