vr-man

Hi, I am about to try and remove the rear bumper on my Corrado so I can sort out some evil rust. I have found many posts that say the rear bumper is held on at each end by two bolts. Here are two photos under the rear of the car. Are these the bolts I need to remove ? Do all four need to come out ? Just want to check first as expect it will not be easy. cheers

Hi Dan, Very interested in the pair of fog lights if the sale falls through. I could meet you early one Monday morning somewhere near M5/M50 junction. cheers

Tom, I have PM'd you about the fogs Any chance of a picture before parting with the readies? thanks

I no longer need the scuttle panel seal. Have bought one via another thread. I will still take the fog lights and if available the hand brake handle grip. cheers

can you PM me payment details for the scuttle rubber seal. I will give the handbrake handle a miss......the leather covers are not really interchangeable.

I need a replacement handbrake grip (the slide on part covered in black leather) It tends to break near the catch part when removed from the handle....hence I need another. If that is still available I will take it Will also take: scuttle rubber seal if in reasonable cond ( this is the seal that runs along the bottom of the scuttles ) ariel thanks

Do you have the handbrake handle grip (slides on and covered in leather). Any chance of a pic to see if its the same as mine on the VR. Be warned...it breaks if you are not careful when taking it off.

It looks like no one has taken your fog lights yet. If they have no cracks and are from the late VR then I will take them, posted. Also do you have: rubber seal that fits along the edge of the scuttle panels handbrake handle grip (the slide on bit)

That's a shame. Did it go for its metal value or to a breakers yard? I could go visit the breakers if I feel desperate. Yes I am looking out for a radiator fan housing. When my radiator was replaced a few months back the housing nearly disintegrated.

Bit bizarre this..... before you let the chassis/body shell go, I might be interested in cutting out a piece of the body shell at the rear corner below the lighting cluster (drivers side). A few years ago some one reversed their 4x4 tow-bar into mine right on the crease. It was professionally repaired but after a while started to rust and now its pretty grim. A bodyshop recently suggested the best repair would be to weld in a new rust free corner section. If yours is colour code LC5M that should be a match for mine which I guess is a bonus. Also I will join the queue for your front wings and fog lights and fan housing (don't expect they will be available now though ) Ta.

I would be interested in a VR6 rad fan housing if you have one.

Excellent. Thanks for the tip. I pumped the brake for a while and then the sensor then came out of the servo no trouble at all. (There is a chance the vacuum disappeared overnight but I'm happy to think it was the pumping of the brake that did it). A resistance check showed contacts to be open circuit no matter what position the slider was in. ( incedently, for general info - the end cap on the slider probe is blue, (my car is a 95 VR6)). Have now removed the old silicone and prised the cap off. The soldered terminals inside had completely dried out. Just need to re-solder, re-assemble with new silicone sealant, pop it back in the servo and then I can sail through the MOT :)

Is the leather on the handbrake handle in place and in good nick. If so I may be interested. I didn't see an asking price listed. cheers

My ABS warning light has been playing up for years. Only luck has caused the light to behave itself during an MOT. I'm pretty sure its a dodgy Brake Pedal Position Sensor and with another MOT imminent I've decided to try the re-soldering repair approach. I have managed to remove the large circlip using a little hook tool and some prodding but now cannot pull out the sensor. Does anyone know if there will still be a vacuum in the servo. If there will be I guess I will need to find a way to release the vacuum before I have any chance of pulling out the sensor. or maybe its just a tight seal in which case I will clear the air intake pipes out of the way and pull a whole lot harder. cheers

Did any of you put on another piece of metal or did you simply weld the bolt to what was left of the plate?

My handbrake went suddenly slack the other day. I assumed something was amiss with the cables but on inspection under the plastic I found I had ripped out one of the fixing bolts. The car has done almost 190K now and maybe a heavy hand over all that time will fatigue the metal plate which is not all that chunky. Currently planning to get a strengthening plate welded on around the bolt. Anyone else had this problem? I wonder what you did for a repair.

Thanks for the feedback, I am going to try and swop it. At least I should get the necessary gasket then. I wonder if any of you have found a source for the various foam gaskets used in and around the heater box and fan arm. They are old now and pretty much trashed. Also any ideas for replacement foam tubes which keep the wiring tidy and quiet and also of course stop chafing/electrical shorts.

I am in the middle of replacing the heater matrix in my VR6. I bought the OEM replacement from GSF ( part number 178VG0041 ). I have a few concerns with my new exchanger. Firstly it is made by Behr Hella and not by Valeo. I think Hella are a decent company so maybe I have nothing to worry about, although the quality of the fins does not look as good as the original Valeo unit. Secondly there is no foam gasket provided for the interface between inlet/outlet pipes and the bulkhead. Also the white gasket at the top of the unit is replaced by a foam strip. Thirdly, if I look on the Hella on-line catalogue, or on other part websites, it appears the unit I have bought is for a car with aircon fitted, which I do not have. Has anyone fitted one of these units? I would prefer the Valeo but is it still available and does it include the important gasket?

thanks robrado will have a go tomorrow morning finding them ..... hopefully won't be too fffreezing cold. just found some good pics on the Corrado Club of Canada website. http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8848 Looks like my original guess as shown in my attached pic was completely wrong.

Hi, I am taking my dash out to change the heat exchanger after it turned my car into a sauna ( I understand it could be done without taking dash out but I don't want to end up breaking anything ). I have got to the point where I am ready to unbolt/unscrew the dash. I think I have found the internal fixing screws but cannot locate the ones that are somewhere in the plenum chamber beneath the windscreen. Can anyone tell me if the nut in the attached pic is one of the fixing points ( it is near the fan intake ). Where is the other one ?? thanks

Hi everyone, I know this is an old thread but this seems a good place to ask this question. I am attempting to replace the heater matrix in my VR6 without taking the dash out. There is a wire loom around the Fan Arm which will prevent me pulling the whole assembly out from under the dash. How did some of you deal with this. I cannot see any accessible connectors which would free up the loom. I have not started on the three fixing points in the engine bay yet because I can see this loom being a problem. Picture of loom attached. cheers Adrian

Just fitted one of Daves repair kits Very nice piece of metalwork Takes a while to get purchase on the pivot pin but it comes out eventually. Handle now works perfectly Thanks Dave.

Would like a kit if you still supply them (both doors) - could you PM me costs / payment details etc.. cheers

I'm in Cheltenham. Wooton-Under-Edge is not too far. May give them a ring. What work did you have done?

Definately interested in an uprated wiring loom. Would have to be the top spec option, can't risk driving in the dark all of a sudden.