yalan

I take it those are Dan's calipers you had.....! Basically - the different sized pistons are there to avoid uneven pad wear in the first place. Typically the disk surface passes the smaller piston first which does its clamping job. As it clamps down, the pads typically release gasses which make it harder for the 2nd piston to excert the same force on the pad. As a result, caliper designers designed the 2nd piston larger to overcome these forces & allow a more even clamping force. The problem with using the Girling twin pots on our cars is that not only will they not prevent uneven wear, but they will actually promote it. With modern pads, the amount of gassing is far less than it used to be with the older compounds, but I still think we'll see noticable tapering of the worn pads. RE the 4mm - I think this is because the audi disks are 276mm and VW disks are 280mm. Ie 2mm overlap. However this all depends on whether the mounting points are in the same place on both cars.... maybe - maybe not! Only one way to find out. My personal preferance would be to use 996 rear calipers though. Evereyone wants 996 front calipers (like the S2 owners) because they can take 30mm disks. But no-one wants the rear calipers because they are designed for a 299 x 24mm disk. To me, this sounds perfect to use on the VW 280mm disk. And there is a surplus of calipers because no-one wants 'em as they are seen as 2nd best! All we'd need are brackets to be sorted and some 16". Also much better than the seat kit - because they are brembos latest design monoblocs and not the 10year old design they use for most OEM applications. Worth some considerations perhaps? Anyway - If I can get hold of some Girlings next week I'll report back on how they fit!

RE Audi s2 twin pot calipers.... May well be doing this myself. Only other problem I can see is that the staggered pistons will be the wrong way round - leading to uneven pad wear......

spot the difference! That is indeed an 'impulse sender' and provides crankshaft information to the ECU. Hopefully will make the car run smoother too! The garage who 'binned it' told me it should have come with the new plug lead & VAG-Parts had supplied me the wrong item. Bollox! I suggested that the leads unscrew and he told me that he'd been in the business 20years and knew all the tricks ..... and that we young 'amateurs' were always trying to suggest something new. I got my old one off him, took the rubber boot off the dizzy end, then unscrewed the connector. Slipped on the impulse sender & re assembled. The fruits of my labours are shown below. Specialists eh!

yeah - had a few idling issues - largely caused by the wires on the throttle body having freyed off at the connector. Now that is sorted, hopefully this will solve my remaining problems (ie idles nicely on falling revs then bounces 500-1000) Will report back if this is the fix! PS - is your meet tomorrow then.... I'll try to get on down if she'll let me!

yeah - cheers mate - I think the guy at the garage knows what I'm talking about now..... he's going through the bins now :roll: PS I seem to remember you from the S2 forum..... nice crossover we have in this VAG family isn't it ????

aah - cheers for that! sounds like it could be the one.... we'll see what the guys at the garage have to say..... on the no 1 cylinder you say.... the left hand cylinder is that as you look down on the engine?

ok - how about this..... if no-one knows what it is, then just tell me where the other wire goes...... can someone have a look under their bonnet for me - I need to 'have words' with that garage today! :|

... and heres a pic to perhaps explain things better !

Come back from a service and noticed a loose multiway connector in the engine bay. Im hoping someone can tell me what its for / what it should be plugging into. I've worked out that it clips onto the male part on the same bracket as the ISV. About 1cm below in fact. I still have the bit which comes attached to the engine loom, so I need to know where the 'top' end of this cable goes?? Anyone care to enlighten me? Cheers!

hmm... yes thats what I thought - what have they fecked up! The belt appears to be on fairly taught & no leaks..... but what do you mean by pipe? problem seems to be either PAS on or PAS off... no inbetween really :? cheers

Picked the car up from a service today where the timing belt was also done. On handing over the keys, the guy mentioned that the PAS pump may be on the way out. I've always thought the PAS was just a bit weak so thought nothing of his comments. Drove away, but on approaching a set of traffic lights, the PAS completely disappeared! This has never happened before & is actually quite nasty! Any suggestions??

Put a set of those on my S2 last year - great brakes! Personally I went for Ferodo DS2500 pads as they were pretty much rated as the best available (and so they should be for £150 a set!!) Coming in in second place was Pagid fast road pads for £60. GSF sell Textar pads for £35 - and textar are the company who make the OEM pads. Personally I'd go for DS2500s again. have the p/n somewhere if you need it....

i would imagine your 16v front engine mount would be the same as a VR6 front engine mount to fit.........this shouldn't take more than 30mins by any competeant mechanic.......ive seen it changed in 20 minutes by a tyre-fitter mate.......admittedly on a Golf VR but pretty sure the room to manouver is much the same yeah - I'd tend to agree - but for what its worth, VW quote 0.9 hour for the job (ie £72!)

hmm ... think you might be right about the cambelt - called a stealer & they budget 1.9 hours for that. we'll see tonight what the total comes out at!

About to pick up my 16v this afternoon following some basic work. The labour charges are sounding pretty large to me now…. :( How long do you reckon it would take to do the following .. (my estimates are in brackets) Drain oil (10mins) Replace sump gasket (30mins) Change oil filter, Plug sump & fill oil (20mins) Timing Belt & tensioner renewal (40mins) Change plugs, leads, dizzy cap & rotor arm (40mins) Change air filter (10mins) Change fuel filter (30mins) Other ‘service items’ not already covered (10mins) Front engine mount (60mins) So far, the quote is 9 hours and still counting…. My estimate comes in @ 4h10 ??? am I being a bit overoptimistic ??

looking good mate - have you got any more pics though as its hard to see the gaps because of the shadows..... And if you don't mind me asking how much & where from?? Cheers Al

Hmmm - just what I was thinking too..... polished estorils - saw a set at gti international for £300. Very pleasant on the eye!! from : http://www.corrado-database.nl/index.php?item=view_corrado&id=423&PHPSESSID=3765babce8b13836dbceb99cb36b37fd

yes - plenty of coolant in there & the cap's good! Didn't know the sensor actually came out so will have a got at that later ! Unfortunately that ISV on e-bay is for the 1.8corrados etc - the 2.0 has a different part no...... don'k have any idea what the differences are though??? Anyone know how to test / move / adjust the ISV whilst it's off the car???

hmm - I soaked it in carb cleaner for about 7 hours - but couldn't work out how to open / close the port without damaging it..... did try jamming my toothbrush in there but couldn't really clean much out! Also took ages to get all the fluid out..... just sloshed about until I'd flicked it for about 1/2 hour. any ideas on the coolant probs ? airlock / thermostat etc?? cheers guys.....hopefully meet some of you tomorrow!

Hi - can anybody help me with a couple of of probs I'm having right now..... Car is a 2.0 16v BTW! 1) From cold, the coolant light flashes and stays flashing throught the entire journey - unless you let the car warm up, then key off and start it back up again. Seems to 'reset' and the light stays off. Coolant level is OK & temp rises normally and stays at a healthy temp once warm..... 2) Idle. From cold, the car idles high (up to 2500). Tends to stay high until, again, wait till warm then key off then start engine again. Read up on here & decided to clean the ISV last night. Grime came out so I thought all would be good. Plumbed it back in this morn & drove to work. Idle remained static @ 1800. Even after a key off / key on. Opened bonnet and had a look around. Started tapping on the ISV and this brought the tick over down to 1000. Knackered ISV??? any more intense ways of cleaning the ISV?? Throttle cable is OK. Microswitch is clicking at rest. Vac pipes on the throttle body appear to be in place. Any suggestions for these minor niggles would be greatly appreciated! Cheers Alisatir

does anyone know if the manifold is the same as on a Mk III gti ??? hopefully I'll find one @ GTI international! PITA to do the job in situ?

Just been outside doing some fiddling and noticed that I've a couple of (not so small) cracks on my exhaust manifold. I know this is going to be a bit of a pain in the arse to fix - but does anyone know what the possible effects could be / whether it may fail an MOT & what is involved in replacing the sod! Cheers, PS its a 2.0 16v! Al

aah - thanks for that Henny - should be able to swap them over next week. Nice to know somwone hasn't had a front end knock (my reasoning for having the wrong bumper!)

I've recently bought a '93 L plate 2.0 16valve corrado. Needless to say, but fog lights were cracked so I've bought new ones. Tried to fit them yesterday but I've clearly got the wrong ones. The new parts I have look like the top image whereas the ones on the car look like the bottom ones (with the big plastic surround). Has my late spec car been fitted out with an early spec bumper??? And aer early fogs cheaper / more expensive than the ones I've bought??? cheers for your thoughts! [/img]

found dave's polished estorils....... nice! http://www.corrado-database.nl/index.php?item=view_corrado&id=423