yalan

I'd try and keep it away from the insurers at all costs....... If you're a good boy and want to be 100% legal, you'll have to declare it as a claim for the next 5 years otherwise....... how much will that put up your premiums ??? Get it sorted yourself...... better piece of mind and probably alot cheaper too........

my plan: 1- strip carpet from top of shelf. 2- mount speakers to a strip of 12mm mdf (width of 6x9 by width of shelf) 3-bolt mdf strip to shelf from above using countersunk bolts & T-nuts 4-thin out the shelf's pressed wood material in the areas above the speakers 5-in this 'thinned out area' hot glue in some steel mesh (from B&Q) just in case you put something heavy just above your speakers 6- re-cover the shelf using spray glue & acoustic carpet worked in my Mk2..... just waiting ro get a spare shelf to butcher for the rado! 12mm mdf also means that the speaker cones are a healthy distance from the mesh to prevent collision. HTH

Heard many stories with regard to cliffords playing up...... although I've no first hand experience of this myself. Have had 4 toads now (last 3 being ai606, and the last 2 being self fitted) Last 6 years, I've not had any false alarms I couldn't put down to something silly like the interior sensor sensitivity. Couldn't reccommend them enough. Oh, and toads have the best fobs by far!

I find this surprising - as tuners tend to get away with a huge amount of rule breaking that would never be accepted from a vehicle manufacturer. However, the passage which everyone seems to be quoting (pulled from a Lexus forum) states the following: 6.2.9. Other requirements The requirements of paragraph 5.5.2. shall not apply to dipped-beam headlamps. Dipped-beam headlamps shall not swivel according to the angle of lock of steering. Dipped-beam headlamps with gas-discharge light sources shall only be permitted in conjunction with the installation of headlamp cleaning device(s) according to Regulation No 45. (9) Taken from Commission Directive 97/28/EC of 11 June 1997 adapting to technical progress Council Directive 76/756/EEC relating to the installation of lighting and light- signalling devices on motor vehicles and their trailers...... http://europa.eu.int/smartapi/cgi/sga_d ... l=guichett

Not that I'm any kind of expert, but the guys on the s2 forum have been retro fitting HIDs for well over a year and no-one has encountered any legal issues whatsoever. no MOTs failed and no close encounters of the fuzzy kind.

Not that I bought the magazine or anything - but a month or 2 ago one of the boy racer mags did a step by step guide to fitting lambo doors. (step by step - not DIY!) Prices did come out at well over £1200 largely dueto the amount of fettling, welding & paintwork required. The hinges do indeed open outwards for the first couple of inches (ie latches remain operative) then the door swings up on the monsterous hinges. They also have dirty great big gas struts for supporting the weight. When closed, the hinges fold back down and into slots inside the wings. IMHO they look pretty nasty - but you've got to admire the work that goes into them. PS Gullwing MK2s are ace ..... !

never buy a car without a HPI check. right, now thats said, I'm now of the opinion AA checks are a complete waste of time if you have even a basic knowledge of cars. Checks start at about £120 (or they did last time I checked) and this is for a Basic checkover. When I had one done a couple of years ago, the idiot went on about eneven tyre wear which could have been brought about by hidden chassis damage :shock: . Also stated that the underside was too dirty for them to inspect! Summary suggested that I oughtto take the car to an Audi main dealer for a full geometry check before purchase. :( BUNCH OF IDIOTS ! 3 tyres were almost new and one was pretty badly worn (with a suspiciously clean alloy). Look in the boot and what did I find? Yes, a 4th matching almost new tyre with a nail in it. Owner had obviously just put the spare on & not yet fixed the puncture. And the AA wanted me to spend hunderds at a stealer for a geometry check!!! Be wary of the feedback you get from these guys! & be aware that they will write all sorts of stuff to cover their own backs! HTH

I just traded in my dynaudio 3 way components for 6x9s ! who's gonna lend me their burberry cap ?? my corrado isn't really all that & I really can't be arsed spending hundreds of hours up to my tits in MDF dust & poly resin for this car. Horses for courses & the 6x9s will do me for now. Does get a bit boring when component users get on their high horse though....... (i've not had 6x9s since 1995! - and they have got a lot better!)

in case others haven't read this guys work yet........ http://homepage.ntlworld.com/cains1/Fue ... ecotek.htm personally I think the chap is fairly well qualified to comment on the product's abilities: ' I studied Engineering at Churchill College, Cambridge and then worked for several years for Rover. Since 1999 I have been employed by Bosch, working on petrol engine management systems, but spend most of my time at Cosworth Technology in Northampton....' Also interesting to see that he had to remove the pages from the web following legal threats from Ecotec, but is now back up due to Ecotec being unable to substantiate their grievances against the author. ..... where do I buy one? :)

exactly the same happened to mine. Light came on & usually went off when you turned the ign off then on again. Everything else was fine. Replaced the expansion bottle (with integral sensor) and the light has not come on again since. I got mine from german & swedish for only a few quid.... but I hear you can get an original one from the stealers for not much more. Easiest fix I've come across so far!

for me its just a bit too....... red! I reckon it just needs some subtle changes..... blacken the mesh & get the plate back on.... and it'll look pretty cool. I always thought the underside of the OEM bumber looked a little bare to be honest. PS apologies for the poor photoshopping!

yup - just a slight change to add in the fog lights to the main beam. fogs run as normal with their switches, but when you flash the lights or put on the main beam, the fogs will join in on the party. 3 relays (1 for each fog and one for the dipped beam bulbs). Seems good so far - but have only driven in towns since the mod. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13949 Not really helping you out though Gman ...... sorry !

my supa loom!...... also not visibly much difference to look at from the front..... really need to take 'em for a night drive to make a decent comparison!

off. Chavus maximus with.

whoa........... thats some seriously unfortunate turn of events -- you've my sympathies. so is it RIP or just another reincarnation in a few months (weeks) ?

Aide - yeah it is bouncing a bit - probably between 300-1500rpm during a cold start. Warm seems OK though with just the odd moment where idle will stick at 1500rpm - a tap to the ISV normally brings it down a bit though (hence thinking it was ISV related). If you've got any specs of what the various sensors / components should be putting out that'd be a great start & would be appreciated. Will also tryt cleaning the ISV one more time - just to be sure.

Indeed - so does anyone know how complex the rest of the circuit is? or perhaps what to look for? Have already identified the wires to the throttle switches had freyed loose - but fixing this has just stopped it idling @ 3000 rpm. Bounce at cold has remained. (Oh and to quote kev from a previous thread - 'To test the ISV, crimp the long hose that feeds from the valve into the inlet hose with your fingers. You should feel it vibrate and the harder you squeeze, the engine should cut out. If both happen, the valve is OK. ')

Right - I've got some problems with a bouncy chasing idle for a while now & have already tried the carb cleaner route soaking overnight. Car runs smoothly when warm though. So unsure if it is an ISV problem or something else. Have tried 3 other ISVs at my local breaker but they disn't make the blindest bit of difference - nor did any of them 'buzz'. Another local Forum member has offered to let me try his - but apparently his doesn't 'buzz' either. Which leads me to the question - does anyone know any other methods of testing an ISV or the remainder of it's electrical circuit???? Should I be looking for particular input voltages etc??? Any help much appreciated!

Thanks for the offer mr werthers - but yours is for a 1.8 16v....... there are even two versions for the 2.0l (one by bosch & one by VDO) and at the very least, the hose designs are different for each and every version. Personally I need the plasticcy VDO version to play with!

I'm having similar probs...... my local breaker did have several from other VW/AUDIs (with same p/n) which I tried but to no effect. Euro car parts also ordered me one in but wouldn't let me try it first. Neither mine nor the other 2nd hand ones buzzed at all - leading me to believe I have other eleccy gremlins elsewhere. But probably won't know until some other local 9A owner lets me borrow theirs. (E london / essex anyone?!) Anyone know how big that circuit is & what else is in their to malfunction???

After all the slagging off we've given them for the drain channels - thought I'd share my delight at some excellent design I came across whilst stranded in a campsite with a BBQ..........

you think that's a crap design..... on the audi coupe, the rear spoiler is like a huge tea tray. On the flat, it probably holds about a litre and a half of rain!! And what happens when you try to open the boot ? yup - all that water gushes round the side & into the boot! Genius...... was someone 'off ill' the day they designed that bit?????

yeah - go with Toad! I've never heard a bad word said about them & am now on my 3rd (3cars!) in 5 years. No frills & no malfunctions. Good solid chunky fob unlike most of the other brands too. And don't forget, the fob is something you've gotta see & use every day. You've also got a few extra outputs for headlights, door poppers etc. EDIT: the following statement is CRAP. See below..........Only down side is the full closure has a max of 3 secs power. Corrado roof & windows take longer than this so don't all close completely from fully open. You could add it on to one of the ancillary buttons but that's not quite perfect! Personally I wouldn't go for anything else. Total value for money. Sudden brainwave last night RE my non-full closure on the ai 606. Rather than using the 'central locking output' to lock & close the car, I've just added a relay to the separate window closure circuit, switched it onto automatically close when armed, and hooked the c/l up to this aux output instead. Set the closure pulse to 8 secs and bobs your uncle..... Now fully closing completely on Arm. Well Happy. Toad alarms are the mutts!

or if you want to go even further........ This one ties the fogs into the main beam - both when you flash your lights at someone (far more noticeable at night!) & when you switch on the full beam. Using the relays also means that when not on full beam, the fogs work exactly as before with the separate fog light switch . PS Double check it before hooking it up! Shouldn't cost much more to knock up either! Red wires are hi-current, Blue wires are low-current.

I'm with the haters on this one. It really vexes me when I see idiots driving about with the fogs on for no reason aside from looking 'cool'. Very E36 BMW :wink: FOG - SPRAY - COUNTRY BACK LANES only for me. Oh and whilst we're on the subject - I know bikers put their lights on to make them more noticeable - and it does work - but 9 times out of 10 they are too bright and when driving along in a low car like the corrado, you just get a mirror or three full of dazzling light which is severely distracting. And of course then the bikes bounce over uneven surfaces & look like they're flashing you from behind - then squeeze through non-existant gaps just as you're trying to regain your sight! Knobbers! PS - I drive in london where things are prob 10 times worse & will also be taking my CBT soon so I'm not just anti-bike. Just anti-selfish git.