Steve B

:( :( Did Premier give a reason that there not doing full resprays?!!? Are they concentrating on custom work or wha!!? :( :(

VR6Storm - thanks for you comments. I agree with you, im trying to gauge the value for corrados at the moment, and all your comments are helping! I dont want to pay 9K - the less the better, obviously!! I think come the time ill put these points to him and go from there. At the end of the day im willing to pay more for it coz its exactly what i want - but if 9K seems too much then ill have to sort a more realistic price it seems... Thanks again, oh and i got some pics so ill post them in a day or two.. Ta Steve

Hmm, thanks for your input mate - sounds like you did get a good deal!! My mate just bought a K reg VR6 with 86K miles - had a new lump from VW at 30 K under warranty, si in effect the engine has done 56K, although the car istelf has done 86. He Paid £4K exactly - good deal as it was up for £4700. Thing is tho, it does have bits of rust starting (worming under the paint) on hte rear arches, and it has several dents, chips and a scratch or two. Overalll it is tidy tho, and id be happy to pay £4k for it. My bros is immaculate in comparason. The question is, is it and the mods worth 5K more than my mates? You have to take into account the miles aswell tho.... Difficult one to think about here. See where im going tho guys, is it worth paing slightly over the odds for a Mint VR6, with lowe miles... sure it doesnt have leather, but the cloith trim is factory condition - the car really is immaculate. Im thinking that it is worth a bit extra, along with the fact that i know the full history of the car, from new. i know its been looked after, serviced and treated well. That in my opinion is worth a bit extra.....

Paul, out of interest - see post in general section 'Corrado Value' What are the details, i.e. milage, service history? owners etc and if you dont mind me asking.. how much did you get it for roughtly? thanks, oh and it looks very tidy mate!!

Thanx for the comments guys.. Seems like a bit of haggling is to be done then.. :? Should be interesting!! One Problem i can see is that of the other mods. I know that this does not add to the market value of the car, but to me it does... My bro knows ill lower it/ rim it up anyway, so i rekon that may keep the price slightly higher in his eyes??. He also knows that i want the car, which doesnt work in my favour when it comes to money talk! From what you have said tho , 9K does seem a little optimistic, even taking into account the mods and the fact he knows i want them... Difficult situation, as it aint worth getting arsy over, not when it comes to family anyway - see how it goes.. come the time ill prob whack another post up, and show it him as evidence, get some examples etc... cant hurt now can it :lol: Thanx again guys Ta Steve

Hmmm - this is true... think ill worry bout it in a few months - thanks so much for the input guys - very appreciated :D :D

Ok - heres one for all you VR6 boys. What do you rekon this car is valued at: 1994 Corrado VR6, M reg, 50K miles 2 owners from new. FVWSH very good (A1) condition, no dents, scrapes etc. Extras that it has: Cat 1 alarm Tracker system BBS RKII Koni shocks, H&R springs CD Player. What do you rekon the price would be? Likely to be sold for 9K but some peeps rekon this may be too high? Judging by the examples on autotrader/ for sale locally etc i think this is about right..... Let the debate begin!! Ta Steve

I know what your saying guys - but check auto trader. 94/ 95 VRs with 60 odd K on the clock are going for around 8.5K. Fact. This car is gona be just ova 50K when sold, and is very good condition. Plus it has the full VAG history and my Bro is the 2nd owner - all the history is known. I honestly believe that it would sell privatly for 9K on the open market - if not more. haha - we have our moments!! wee not close enough that he'll loose money for me tho!!

will do mate - ill get some spy shots soon :lol:

Cheers for the comments too guys! Hi Dan, yea i tried to do it all tastefully - didnt want anything too lairy, more of a subtle approach! The thing i like is that most people dont see half the things ive done, and think its standard like that! That when i know they are quality mods - when people think they are original :D

Ooops sorry guys - didnt see the gallery section.. DOH! Probabily be givin 9K for the corrado. Sounds alot, but i think it is a good deal. It is V good condition, will have just hit 50K on the clock, it also has some nice extras i.e BBS, Konis, AmD Re-map, Cat 1 Clifford, Tracker etc which saves me spending the money on them!! Hopefully allowing me to leather her up

As some of you may or may not know, ill be buying my brothers Corrado off him this summer - a VR6 :D I did say id get some pics up of my current car tho - a 95 Mk4 Polo 1.4 Below is a link to a thread i posted onwww.performancepolos.co.uk - http://www.porka.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=XForum&file=viewthread&tid=5384 It me first car and ive got it just about how i want it now - i would like to put her on coilovers, and maybe a new set of rims - but the time has come to move on! Im proud to say also that ibought the car and all the mods myself - no handouts here :shock: The mods have now officially stopped tho, and the saving for the Corrado begun!! Feel free to tell me what ya think. Oh, you can just make out the arse end of the corrado in one of the shots. Ta Steve

For Reference, Just found out: Corrados from 9/94 onwards had the transponder type immobiliser fitted as std. This was from chassis number 50-S-000 718.

Youll need a copy of it on CD - or there is an online version. Its in Russian, and a bit sketchy, but most of the information can be made sence of by using a Translator. Heres the links: http://www.translate.ru/url/tran_url.asp?lang=en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elcats.ru%2Faudivw%2F&direction=re&template=General&cp1=NO&cp2=NO&autotranslate=on&transliterate=on&psubmit2.x=64&psubmit2.y=12 Youll find that after the first few pages, youll need to use a translator. Hope that Helps

Can anyone clear this up for me! I know some corrados are the same as my Mk4 Polo, in so much that they have a transponder chip in the key, and an immobiliser coil as part of the ign. barrel. Does anyone actually know which corrados will have this? Was it similar to other things i.e. all cars after 199? came with them - or was it model dependant? Anyone know? Ta Steve

Dunno how much use these are to you?

Looking at my brothers the other day, isnt the upper line of the door (i.e. tne line just below the handle) actually further out than the protection strip sits - meaning there is no more protection with the strips on! looks like a car door would hit the door before it hit the protection strip? mite be wrong but thats what it looked like to me?!

Uneveness is called tramlining, and is caused by having larger, wider rims. This happens on all cars, and is a side effect of the larger wheels. Its just the extra width picking up on uneven camber of the roads Not sure about the wobbling - could be something loose - best bet is to pop into a garage and ask em to have a look. Should do it for a packet of biscuits if there not too busy :wink:

If the wire if fatter, it carrys more juice, which makes the lights shine brighter. :lol:

Just realised this topic is near a month old! Sorry for steppin in when it was all sorted.

As far as i understand it, it is the voltage that drops, as someone said, there will be a pd (potential difference) between the source (i.e. battery) and the bulbs. It is possible to get a 2v drop over a length of wire. Looking at amp wires, around 1 volt is the norm for a fully functioning system - obviously this is a longer run of wire, but its the same principle. If the wire/loom is too thin/ light for the applicaiton, then there will be un neccessary current draw caused by the resistance of the wire. Maths bit (from what i can remember - correct me if i wrong here guys!) ohms law is V = IR Voltage = Current x Resistance. For this example, lets say that voltage is 14v, and resistance of wires etc is 10 ohms. This means that V = IR therefore I = V/R so I = 14/10 = 1.4A If the resistance is reduced (by using thicker wires) to say, 5 ohms, then the following changes will occur: V = IR therefore I = V/R So I = 14/5 = 2.8A Thus there is more current flowing in the circuit, because there is less resistance. More current will give the headlight bulbs more power in effect, which means they can shine brighter. On the other hand, Dont be fooled into thinking it is just current however. Voltage increases to a bulb will make them shine brighter also, this is because: P = VI Power = Voltage x Current If voltage is 14v, and current is 2A, the power will be 28W If we now drop 2v and the voltage is 12v, the power will be 24W for a current of 2A. This is why when the engine is running all lights in a car are always a bit brighter (interior lights, headlights etc), because there is more voltage which will produce more power. To sum up then- By raising voltage (by having engine running), current is caused to rise (for a fixed load i.e. bulbs etc) This is becasue voltage is directly proportional to current in ohms law. Similarly, if Voltage drops, current will fall. Although it seem like the current is rising and falling indepandantly, it is actually the voltage that causes the current to change. The current will alter in proportion to the voltage change. It is only when the resistance changes, that the current will change independantly of voltage. In this case the higher the current, the more power will be produced. As said earlier, V = IR, which means that Current and Resistance are Inversly Proportional, so when resistance rises, current will fall: 14 = 1.4 x 10 If resistance rises from 10 to 14ohms: 14 = 1 x 14 See that the current drops from 1.4A to just 1A. Power wise, this means that instead of P=VI 14 x 1.4 = 19.6W It is now 14 x 1 = 14W So in the case of the shite wiring loom, the more resistance it gives, the less current it will pass, meaning the less power the bulbs get. When replaced by more capable wire, the more current is allowed thru, and the more power the bulbs get. Pheeew! Hope that makes sence to some, bit confusing i know and i prob didnt expain it in the easiest way!

To power the antenna, just tap off of the AMP remote/ power aerial wire from the ISO connector as 2CC said. Wire colours vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but in general it will be blue or blue/ white. If unsure, test with a voltmeter or test light - it will carry 12v when the Headunit (radio) is turned on! Hope that helps guys (and gals) Hi by the way - sorry for the lack of introduction, ill do that 2moro coz im goin homw now Steve :D :D