Steve B

To be honest i was realistically thinking around the 5k mark, maybe a tad higher on a good day with a strong wind etc. Although prices have dropped, if your looking to buy a Corrado then its for a reason, and that is most likely going to be because your after a legendry car. Im guessin that as such buyers are informed and therefore will appreciate a decent example, and as such recognise their value as being slightly higher - not due to residual values or such like, but simply due to availability and the desire to own a gem.... just look at mk2 escorts... End of the day they are worth what someone is willing to pay i guess - but all this talk of tidy VR6s not being worth more than ragged old dogs seems like a load of rubbish, sure it may take some time to find a buyer, but dont accept stupid offers from idiots chancing their hands, they most likely know the value and are amoungst those convincing the world that Corrados are worth sod alll.. Just my 2p.

Hi Chaps, Wondering if you guys could give your opinions on the following, cant think of a better place to find an the general consensus, so here goes - cheers! Dragon Green '94 VR6, 75K. Excellent condition (mint interior, i mean really mint. Few stone chips on the outside, front end etc...)Tracker, Cat 1 Clifford. Koni Shocks, H&R Springs, excellent condition standard speedlines, spankers T1-Rs all round... Full VAG main dealer service Unmolested. What kind of money do you think its worth paying for such a vehicle, obviously its worth more (or less) depending how much you want one etc etc etc... but a realistic ball park figure would be a great guide... Thanks in advance!

Just thought id report that i had my screen replaced at this place. Actual fitting of the screen was fine, guy did a good job. Also got scuttles replaced as part of the job. All I can say to anyone (as usual) is check the car over inch by inch BEFORE you sign the paperwork, if they can get away with damage they will...

Cheers VR6 South, ill be giving them a call later to discuss my needs then! Does anyone know how the three piece scuttle trim comes off the corrado (i.e. the bit the wiper splines poke through)? I see its clipped onto the metal below it at the bottom, but the top of the trim seems to be bonded to the lower part of the windscreen, is this the case? Just wondering if this is part and parcel of the 'trim' that i could get replaced as part of the windscreen fitting? Many thanks again, this is helping to clear things up no end!

Cheers for the info VR6 South, Is this the place, tis the only branch i can find in pompey: RAC Auto windscreens Unit 7 Mountbatten Bus Prk Jackson Close PO6 1UR Also, did you have any probs, or did they literally do a good job all round? Cheers again!

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated. VR6 South, Dont suppose you know which branch of RAC did your screen do you, or the fitter, would be good to get some guys who have done one before round... any info would be cool! Cheers fellas!

Cheers, Anyone else have any info please?

Unfortunately have a large crack in my windscreen that now requires replacement... Ill be having it done on the insurance, and have done the searches etc on this forum, and read several posts. Please can someone who knows advise as to what parts i should look to get replaced whilst the screen is changed. I gather it would be best to get a new seal put in, how about the side plastics and top plastic on the outside of the screen? Anything else i should be asking for when i make the call? Also can anyone tell me how the top trim is removed from inside the car, the one that runs along the top of the windscreen, as i think it would be better if i remove all the bits i can prior to the fitter coming! Im in the Southampton area, So if anyone knows of an Auto glass branch which has done a good job on Corrados in the past i would appreciate the mention! Thanks for any help, im trying my best to avoid another disaster on a Corrado windscreen! Cheers!

Hi Guys, Have to do a repot for UNI on ABS systems, was wondering if anyone has any technical information on the Corrado system. Im sure someone has a book/manual somewhere with a few specs etc in it, anything would be useful in the way of parameters, processors used etc etc... not that interesting but unfortunately neccessary!! Thanks for any help.. Steve.

The fitter never even connected the movement sensors etc in this case, which makes you wonder what they did when i came to the wiring!! Not so much an excuse as a fact im afraid, when fitted properly Cliffords are great, problems occur of course which will be down to software, faulty manufactuer etc, but no more than any other bit of retrofit electronics in a moving vehicle...

Which makes you wonder what kind of job they did with the more important aspects such as wiring... Yet again shite fitting being blamed on the alarm.

Oh, and im pretty sure that plug is meant to be loose... There have been several like that on all VWs ive worked on.

Hi, Could be many things to be honest, from dry joints to loose plugs. I have had the not locking thing with mine, which occured after a period of not being used, it sorted itself out after being driven again, is your car regularly used? The remote start again could be a number of things, most likely the rpm sensor, does it have an external module fitted (black box that will be attached to the main power cable by the battery) if so these can pack up menaing it wont start - not a major problem to sort out. The going off for no real reason i would most likely think is due to the heat, and the movement sensor being a tad to high on sensitivity. The 'bubble' expands with heat, meaning instead of staying in the car and looking for movement there, it can expand outwards, and thus pick up movement outside - hence the flase alarms. The way to check what set it off is to do the following: -Unlock car and get in -Hold down the blank button (the one without the nobble on it!) on the valet switch and lock the car via key fob -keeping the blank button held down, unlock car after a few moments -let go of blank button Now watch the LED. It will flash a number of times, and then pause, then flash a numer of times etc Each group of flashes tells you which sensor was activated when the alarm went off, in order from the last time it went off. If it flashes one time, then pauses, then one time etc then you know it was the internal sensor as i said, if not, you will be able to tell which sensor it was from the list below: 1 Proximity Sensor 2 Vibration/impact or tilt/motion sensor (if you have one fitted, there not standard) 4 Door open/ajar 5 Boot/bonnet open/ajar (boot only if you have the IntelliStart 4) 6 Bonnet open/ajar (only if you have the IntelliStart 4) 7 Ignition switch was turned on whilst the system was armed 8 Three or more incorrect valet codes were entered 10 flashes Power tampering or the vehicle battery is very low Hopefully that will sort one of the problems, let me know if you need to know how to adjust the sensor. Also, what happens when you go to remote start it, does it just flash the indicatiors once and then do nothing? Any other help let me know...

Dont know what the colour code is, but you will be able to find it coming from the drivers door loom. Take a look, it will be attached to the door handle ultimatly as the holding of the key in the lock activates the sunroof closure manually... Turn the key in the lock and stick a meter or test light on the wires which come off it, im sure youll figure it out in less that a minute... or someone who knows the colour code could save a bit of playing around....

Yea you can do it yourself, To be honests as long as you ensure they go in the correct way round, and you seat them and drive them in square (as in not at an angle) then they dont take long at all. Make sure you dont overpack them with grease, thats the only other thing to note. Just takes a bit of care and common sence, not worth paying someone to do in my opinion, should have them both done easily within a half hour.

Seem to have sorted the problem... Had hte car on charge for the past two days via maintainer, also uplugged the crank sensor loom and took a resistance reading. Was kinda hoping that the charge would sort it out, which it has. Is there some kind of cut off for the ecu or coilpack that doesnt let it fire below a certain voltage? The engine was cranking fine, but this is all i can logically think of to be honest... Its on trickle full time now, so hopefully thats the end of it - cheers for all the adivce and opinions guys, very helpful indeed. Nice one!

Excellent, cheers fella: Jus hoping to get a conclusive result either way, should have some more news by tommorow evening all going well....

Cheers for that, much easier as you say with the car jacked. Ive done a quick check of resistance across pins 1 + 2, am getting 544ohms. Does anyone know if this is in tolerence of out...? Im gonna scope it tommorow when i get the chance before taking it out, see if there is any signal present. Thanks again i shall return the results when they are in!

Ive just managed to pop out take a look: Relay 109 is working fine, latches and holds, and give +12 when held. Also had a quick poke around for this crank shaft sensor - am i right in thinkin its an absolute sod to get at, seen a chuky wire going from a plug to the block, cant even see the sensor and apart from strippin the front end, dont see how i can.. I havent had the engine covers off yet, again i shall do this tommorow - any more info on sensor location (or possibly pics?) would be cool - sorry to labour the point... Thanks

Cheers for the response guys... Ive got hold of a scope, so i shall check the crank shaft sensor after work tommorow or sat. I think i saw a picture of one with it having three pins, does anyone happen to know which pins the signal should be output on. I havent yet taken a look at it, so forgive me if its obvious, jus wanna get as much ammo as poss for the weekend session.... I took a look a relay 109 the other day, i think ill take another look tho since you mention it - i assume it just latched when ignition is applied? Thanks again, any more comments more than welcome!

Thanks for the replies... Its not an immob prob i dont think, ive dealth with them before and this doesnt seem to be sharing the same symptoms. There is no apparent smell of fuel that i noted, i assume that since the fuel pump is priming that fuel is not the issue, the ECU shutting down the feed does sound viable in this case tho. Ive got the battery on charge at the mo due to the good old problems associated with continual cranking... i shall be taking an indepth look on the weekend, and a mate is gonna hook up vag com. Could you please advise me how to locate and test the crank position sensor, am i wright in thinking this should output a pulse in line with crank rotation? I had a quick look last nite but cannot seem to see it, that said i dont know what it looks like so any help/ pics would be much appreciated!! Also what codes are tell tell for the Crank position sensor having failed? Many thanks again.

Hi, have a bit of a problem with which i would like some advice please.. I use my VR once or twice a week. Last used last wednesday it didnt start first time as usual, instead took a 2nd attempt. Go to start it today and it wont start. Now it turns over fine, the following things happen: Fuel pump gives a quick whirl Turns over, but wont fire. Fuel pump relay keeps making and breaking during cranking... Ive tried a working fuel pump relay from another car to make sure that is ok - same thing happens. Ive made sure all relays are seated, fuses are intact. There is no spark at the plugs (from the two i have tried) when holding them to inlet... This suggests coilpack to me, but i understand there are other causes that could be involved. Any help or advise would be appreciated, The car is a 94 VR6 with 66K on the clock, condition is inkeeping with mileage... Also if anyone has any ideas for me to try then i would be grateful, or if anyone has a working coilpack to hand in the Southampton/ Pompey area id be much abliged if i could give that a whirl before spending out on a possible red herring... Thanks in advance

Just to let you guys know, instead of filing down the pads there is an easier way.. When using 16V calipers with G60/ VR carriers, just get 2mm machined off the caliper sliders - hex end (this cost me a fiver for all four). Obvious advantage here is not having to change the caliper over... This gives the extra 2mm needed to accommodate the thicker disc. Then use pads for the original caliper, i.e. 16v jobbies. Perfect fit (as would be expected) and much better performance!

Been thinking about this, i rekon the following set up would fit, obviously needs to be checked out first, but i rekon this is a way of doing it: Mk5 Polo Stub axles (carrier mouting lugs are integrated, unlike golf) Mk4 Golf Hubs (Golf is 5 stud - Polo hubs can be kept for 4 stud vehicles) Corrado carriers (or Golf/ Polo??) Mk4 Golf (or Mk5 Polo) ally Calipers Mk4 Golf Discs. Im pretty sure in my head that that little lot would work, i converted my Mk4 Polo to rear discs, and i used the set up from a Mk5 Polo... It was literally a straight swap, and to be honest i think it is the same configuration as the Mk4 golf, with the exception of the carrier mounts... Things that would need to be confirmed... If anyone gets a chance before i do please let us know!! 1. Distance between Back face of stub axle (where is mounts to rear beam) and face that wheel sits against - i have a feeling the Mk4 golf/ Mk5 Polo set up may leave the Corrado wheel sat slightly further in the arch...? 2. Conformation that the Mk4 Golf Hub will fit the Mk5 Polo Stub axle - im pretty sure they will be interchangeable, as the hubs are indentical to look at, bar stud pattern. Obviously it would be best to check the whole set up together off car, so as to aviod unneccessary work. As a side note im pretty sure the Mk5 Polo rear calipers (and poss carriers?) are the same as the Mk4 Golf items, This is the only decent pic (below) i have of the set up on my Polo (before coilovers i mite add!!), but to me they are identical from what can be seen, to the Mk4 ally calipers i have sat in the garage.... Any input welcome on this... i will try to get more info when i can....

Ive looked into this myself - unfortunatly the Mk4 stub axels, altho able to fit, do not have caliper mounting lugs. The calpier mounting lugs on the Mk4 golf (TDi is the model i looked at, so im assuming all the FWD Mk4s are the same) are actually an integrated part of the rear beam. This is also the case on the newer seats. I would image from looking at them that the stub axles themselves will be a straight swap, but obviously some kind of caliper mount would have to be either welded or fabricated in addition. For me and my needs this is a little too much work, Ill be using Mk4 rear calipers on standard VR stubs and discs etc - the shi.te design wheel bearings will have to stay.... Id be interested to know how the guy with the Mk2 golf mounted his calipers, i wouldnt imagine it would be that hard to engineer, depending how much of a priority this issue is to you... Im also pretty sure there is a difference in length of the two stub axles, in fact there is, I didnt have a tape measure with me at the time, so couldnt measure the distance from rear beam face to hub face, but im inclined to think the Mk4 and Corrado would have the wheels sat at different distances from the beam... Ill take a look at this next time i have a measure to hand.