mrbeige

That's an interesting read Yan. Quick question then, does the 2E block have the same crankcase breathing properties of the KR block then? Would one of those rocker (oil cap) breathers from the beetle be sufficient then, or would it be wise to put a further one at the chain end as well?

Oh dear, that's not good :shock:

I think that sentance needs punctuation..... "love, your car looks phat" - bit familiar isn't it? :lol:

He's running a turbo on a 16v if I remember correctly? 8)

When I replaced my discs on my 16v the discs were bare, so I had to use my existing ABS rings and fit new bearings. I'd imagine the G60 ones are the same.

You want a Corrado though, don't you Gav?

Looking good dude! Shine-y-ness 8) You appear to be missing something from the lefthand side of the bay kinda where the filter is :wink:

"Why do we get so attached to these cars?" That's easy....because they're ace :afro: and we are mad :cuckoo:

Come on then, which one is it??

Well yes, the GTD sump does have a return but we're talking about a return here, it's hardly a big deal to plumb one in. Am I right is thinking the GTD sump is bigger? And would the extra oil be a bad thing? People say to use the windage try from a turbo diesel too, just wondering what the purpose of a windage try is? (Questions, questions, questions......off work ill at the mo, so brain is doing overtime!!)

Might have to get a cheapy one and have a play. I might even know someone who has the balancing gear!! Thinking about oil again, would a turbo diesel sump already have an oil return in it and would it fit? AFAIK the sump is also bigger on a turbo diesel, so would the extra oil be a good thing or a bad thing?

Did you get your shift light dude?

What have you had done to the block then? What sort of power output are you expecting dude?

So, prison sentences for car enthusiasts, and the governement today has been saying that they will let criminals out early because the prisons are full! Absolutely ridiculous :mad:

Mine was a C-Reg Metro City X 998cc.....the hydroelastic suspension had gone right down on the front, and so it cornered really well. Total shed of a car though. It was metallic sky blue/rust coloured. Blew the head gasket, so took it apart and never put it back together :lol:

Well bloody hell, I've got that all wrong then! I stand corrected Mr Wire

I love that! Banning a bonfire on Bonfire night! :lol:

Good point Jon! :lol: To be fair I'd imagine that the problem has been the less sensible 'boy-racer' types who drive like loons through City centres. Unfortunately the public finds it hard to distinguish between those types and the more discerning car enthusiast and adopt a 'one size fits all' approach. It's very disappointing really, because if it works, then more councils will undoubtably follow suit. One question would be; if they have banned it from the county does that mean a convoy going to a show down the M1 would be included in this ridiculous injunction?

Found this on a site, and thought it was interesting to read..... "If you are using your car for any form of track, competition or high performance use then the engine oil will need cooling. The most common cause of competition / high performance engine failure is loss of oil pressure, as the oil heats up it becomes thinner. This lowers the pressure produced by the pump and increases the oil escape from the bearings lowering the overall pressure further still. Roughly speaking you need about 10psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm. e.g. 7000rpm requires 70psi oil pressure If the pump cannot meet this demand when the oil is hot/thin engine failure will result - usually in the form of running a crank bearing (death rattle) or throwing a rod through the side of the block! This is especially important on part worn engines - a cooler/thicker oil will give the oil pump a fighting good chance of meeting the demand. On a new or part worn engine if the oil pressure is maintained, the engine isnt over revved or over heated there is no reason for failure. For track, competition or high preformance use a rough target temperature for the oil is around 100degrees C. Over 100C the oil thins out rapidly and therefore drops the pressure." I'd say using an oil cooler is never a bad thing.

Oil coolers? Obviously with any trubo application some means to cool the oil is required. So could an OEM cooler off say a Saab 900 be used in conjuction with a sandwich plate? Furthermore, where is the best place to take the oil feed for the turbo? Am I right in thinking that it would need to be from somewhere like the back of the block where the oil temp sensor is, where it would be under pressure? And would the return be ok going back to the sump?

Hmmmm, maybe not then?? Would all turbo refurbs require balancing? I was under the impression that refurbishment is just a case of replacing bearings and seals?

My intentions aren't to use cheap parts, but to use secondhand OEM parts where possible. For the turbo, I'm looking for one that I can refurb myself, with a total cost of £150-200. For the block, I'm using a 2e with 16v head. This would give the same results to offset bushing the pistons, again the less costly option. For the management, I'm using Megasquirt, again the DIY option. etc etc etc. The long term goal will to build a proper low comp 16v block using a 9a as a basis, but the costs involved at the moment are out of my reach. The reason for this course of action, is that currently my engine has seen better days and I don't really want to rebuild it as is, so would be removing it fitting th 2e based turbo engine. The 9a that I take out can then be rebuilt with low comp pistons, uprated rods, crank etc etc as and when funds allow.

Fair play that Chip Foose seriously knows what he's doing!

Good skills dude! What are your plans?

Some serious shininess there dude, good skills :afro: