RFvr6

mate your a saviour, measurements and everything! Al get one ordered now

ahh that would make sence then, do you know if they are meant to come as part of the kit or is it silicone hose that was used with the original airbox that you mean?

my bmc arrived today to replace my cone filter, held on with duct tape for now, still sealed off and very secure, anyone else have a problem with trying to fit the end of the filter onto the air mass meter?? they seem to be the same size, I even sanded down the flange on the air mass meter and it still didn't fit over[emoji24]

you had a really nice one in a while back, that was the first one I had seen, been interested in them ever since

you certainly did, I'm Ross the parts boy at Barnetts, got the vr about 4 weeks ago to replace the polo gti, best decision iv made!

perfect! iv done a bit searching on the 'Conlog Logic 900' and it sounds spot on, and as you said it is a dealer fit, and for anyone else that stumbles upon this thread- the battery is a PWN637 aka GP4/393 I work for vw parts and I get more info out of this forum then every vw system put together[emoji23] cheers guys

silly question time, I have what I thought was a standard factory fit immobiliser fitted to my 95 vr6, I was trying to find a replacement battery for the fob as it looks to have a remote to disable the immobiliser, but for now I insert it into its home (just under the glove box) the indicators will flash then I am able to start the car. I have had a browse around the forum to see if anyone else has the same one but there isn't much info about them, so if anyone can tell me a bit more about them it would be great, just so if by chance it does die on me or if I lose the fob then atleast I know where I am. so what i would like to know is if they are a vw retro kit / if they are an optional factory fit / if they are a cheapy brand kit, and also if anyone knows where I can get these damn batteries! thanks in advance chaps[emoji10]

this thread is perfect for gathering ideas!

thanks for the reply! the relay number is 59, I think I might just replace it then, Al have a look around, Al just stay away for second hand parts incase I get supplied with a faulty one, if anyone has a working relay for sale PM me please al get back to you about the diagrams if I can find a replacement relay, I know a mechanic that speaks German so I'm sorted that way!

if you could mate that would be great, save me starting a new thread, just in your own time, we're they just a pair of tweeters or did it come in a kit with door bass loudspeakers aswel?

any further forward with this mate? I could do with a speaker upgrade myself

I do apologise if this is in the wrong sub-forum, I'm fairly new here.. and I'm sorry if this have been mentioned before but I had a good look through and couldn't find anything Anyway, my heated seats arnt working, one relay was making no noise and the other was buzzing intermittently. I really don't have any clue about relays/electrics, the first thing I'm going to do is test the relays to make sure they are working fine before testing wiring and switches. I have the help of someone who is fairly clued up but he would like to know what the letters on relay pins mean (P , H and T) there is also the usual 86,15 and 31. and also if there is any wiring diagrams for the heated seats available somewhere. thanks in advance!

Probably too late, but anyway.. for other peoples reference, I run 205/40/17 on my comps and it is fairly close to the arches, but the offset on the wheel brings it out pretty far anyway. With 40 profile it is pretty tight as it is and I wouldn't advise to stretch it unless going up a profile size at the same time.

amazing build so far! can't wait to see her finished!!

Trying to save some cash so im trying to find a second hand BMC CDA air filter in good condition before giving in and splashing out on a new one. I have a '95 VR6 and im looking for the BMC filter along with all the fixings that are required. I live in Fife, Scotland so I will be happy to cover the postage costs as expected. Feel free to text me on 07926466988, Thanks, Ross

to be honest I think dropping down a size to 16 is probably the way I'm going to go, I'm happy with how the car handles even if it is running standard shokies on lowered springs, I will be looking for a cheap set of wheels to use through winter so that will be a good test fit, if all is well then al start shopping around for wheels, I reaaaally like my TT comps but I also don't like the price of a new suspension setup:(

yeah the wheels are 7.5j plenty clearance on the inner arch and a fair bit space between the rim and caliper, the profile or the tyres are 40 each side, i thought about the weight difference on each side but i thought having the gearbox on the left hand side would make the passengers side sag more than the drivers, but if you say its a light gearbox then that explains it. As for suspension i will do a bit of investigating, i might try and get a set of sport shocks that will go with -30mm springs that's already on it (save a bit of cash), i havnt done any looking at shocks so i don't even know if you can get them separately or if they usually just come with a set of springs.

Thanks for the advice guys, i have seen plenty corrados with 17s so i didn't think that would be a problem, the only thing that bothers me about the wheels is the offset, i see what you mean about the shokie, that's the only thing left that can cause one side to be lower than the other. If the shokie is shot then i may aswel do it properly and get myself a better set up, i know there is plenty threads about suspension so i will have a look, i didn't really want to go down the side of coilovers as i believe you will have to really splash out to get a decent ride

On my vr6, I am running standard struts all round, with -30mm springs (got the car a few weeks ago this is what I was told) they look to be progressive rated spring so the coil looks tighter at the bottom then more spaced out towards the top, I have noticed that the rear are flipped the opposite way so they are tighter at the top and more spaced out at the bottom.. I will get pictures later to anyone who hasn't seen them before. Anyway, wheels.. I have Audi TT Comps fitted which are 17" with ET32 and 40 profile tyres (I have heard that anywhere under ET33 is going to scrub). So the off side front sits about 1 inch lower than the near side and is scrubbing on the arch when I go over big bumps, the arches are freshly painted to I want this sorted asap. The springs aren't broken and there is even a bit of camber on the scrubbing side to try and avoid it a bit.. both wishbones look standard (iv heard aftermarket wishbones are sometimes longer or shorter). So im wondering if there is any way of adjusting the setup as I cant find any spring with a lower drop, for example -25mm springs on the front would probably do it. is there any way of adjusting the top mounts to raise it a bit, or am I going to have to go down the road of getting new wheels or get the inner surface skimmed:brickwall:

looks mean, really nice i think my next set will be chunkys, The best part is the price of the tyres

Beauuuuut!!

Thanks for all the help guys, I went out to have a look after seeing the comments about the lock position etc. for some reason the actuator decided it wanted to move now, so I pulled the rod upwards and it worked fine and unlocked the boot and passengers door.. So, i think i have finally found the reason for the fault, I unscrewed the interior light sensor on the passengers door, only 1 wire out of 2 was connected to the unit, i just disconnected it altogether and everythings working as it should now. The whole thing started playing up when i was first playing about with it to try and fix the interior light but i didn't think anything of it as i cant see how they would really be connected. Now im just hoping that's the last i see of that problem and i can start working on other things. It might just be a coincidence that its decided to work now but i will worry about that if the time comes, Thanks for the interest guys and gals

FINALLY.. I have found what the problem is, - The lock actuator/solenoid in the door is playing up, I turn the key to pull it up and switch it into the 'open' position but it doesn't like that for some reason and pulls itself back down again. (I head the pump in the boot working while it does this) SO.. even with the actuator pulled away from the latch I stick my hand inside the door and pull the rod up manually but it still does the same thing and pulls itself back down.. Now to find out why its doing this.. is anyone had this problem before with the actuator, I don't know if its just a faulty unit or if it has something to do with the air feed or wiring. For now I can only get into my drivers door as actuator wont let me open the others. I could try breaking into the passenger side and try swapping the actuators to help narrow down the problem? but im not sure how hard it is to swap over the air lines, I don't want to make any leaks.