Reggit

It's definitely possible for a battery on it's way out to be able to turn the engine but not start the car - seen it before. have you checked the earth straps battery to chassis and engine to chassis are good and haven't gone high resistance. worth a check by using a jump lead to connect a metal part of the engine to the battery -ve terminal.

Got the gear lever trim and knob, but that may be the least of your worries at the minute. After £15 for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Think it's main purpose is to stop your little fingers getting mauled by the radiator fans.

Certainly don't ignore it - a broken wire will put the light out not on and can be easily checked - with ignition on and engine off - pull the wire off the right hand (as you look at it) sensor, it's just on a spade terminal - with it disconnected, it your oil light out? Now short it to the engine block - the light should flash. As the buzzer is on the other sensor, I'd be severely concerned about running the car anywhere and would be having a local garage check it immediately. IIRC - the light should come on at about 1.6bar and the buzzer at about 0.4bar

A slapping noise - especially off the throttle on overrun is usually indicative of a chain flapping around.

For some strange reason I voted ham ... errr, no make that red :)

Oil light should come on with ignition on, check wiring if it doesn't. Warning light should come on at about 1.6 bar and buzzer at 0.4 bar iirc - didn't know about the buzzer shutting off below 2k rpm, but would make sense so it doesn't go off with the engine off but ignition on. If you look at the top of the oil filter housing from the front of the car, the sender on the left operates the buzzer, the one on the right operates the light.

Was going to say the same as Majik - any slight problems running on petrol will be magnified when running LPG. Get it running perfectly on petrol before worrying about the LPG side of things. As a minimum, ensure your plugs are in tip-top condition. Also see here for specialised LPG help.

I have a feeling that a faulty MAF won't show on Vagcom - a failed lambda does. The lambda probe is located on the CAT, or in your case should be screwed into the cat bypass pipe.

Mines wired the same way and reads spot on, checked it against a multimeter directly across the battery terminals. After a run I see the voltmeter dropping to around 13v as you would expect as the battery reaches full charge and the alternator regulator output decreases.

Signed

Yeah, I'd contact DVLA to see, what's going on. If it is blocked the police will still be able to get details so no worries there. It just stops Joe Public/other organisations who do not need the information from getting it.

Could have it's registration blocked - if so it has most likely been an ex government agency or police vehicle at somepoint in it's previous life. They are supposed to be unblocked when they are sold on.

There is a good thread on here somewhere, I found it when wiring mine. But v quickly, you can take the switched live for the voltmeter from the glovebox light and the illumination from the cig lighter. Hereis the info you'll need to wire them.

When you did the 2nd scan, was it immediately after clearing the faults? If so there is a good possibility the lambda won't have re-appeared (if faulty) drive it for a few miles and then scan again.

With no CAT, it may well (read most likely) fail it's MOT on emmissions. Engine speed sensor (crank sensor) will always come up if scanned with the engine stopped, it should go once it is running. If it shows as intermittent, then likely that it is or has been faulty in the past. Best bet is to clear the codes and take it for a run then rescan to see what has come back and is genuine. The ECU will keep old faults in it's memory unless cleared.

Deffo need a compression test - there's a possibility the head gasket could have blown between the 2 pots as well, this will also indicate very little/no compression.

I'll 2nd the wiper linkage, one of the knuckles on mine likes popping off these days - have a new linkage to replace it with but waiting for warmer weather. There'll be no problems using it daily if it is mechanically fit - after all it is just a car and was designed for just that purpose.

With a trailer remember the trailer weight mustn't exceed the unladen weight of the tow car. Link to the legalities here.

Happy christmas and a drunken new year to all xx :clap:

I'd agree with RW1 - sounds as though the starter motor isn't engaging with the flywheel.

They used a lighter oil (10w40) than I previously used (10w50) - so I guess that could explain it - the thicker oil not filling the tappets fully? It's only done 5-6k since the last change so I don't think it was overdue. Something to keep an eye on though. As to the top mounts, I'll change them when it's warm enough to wield some spanners as they are somewhat over 60k and I can't see a record of them being done previously in it's history.

Just had the car in for the MOT and it passed - but with a couple of minor advisories that I'll attend to when it isn't so cold outside. Looking for pointers on this one: ' Macpherson strut has slight movement at the upper attachment' - Is this likely to be a bush worn on the suspension? Also had the garage do an oil change - either I'm getting lazy in my old age or it's to blooming cold to do it myself! I was amazed how quiet the engine is running now, hadn't realised how the tappet noise gradually builds up approaching oil change time.

It won't have an airbag - I don't believe any UK cars where supplied with them.

104k, runs quiet, serviced regularly and not thrashed - I may have a 'look-see' if I manage to buy a garage with a house attached. But as others have said if it went 'pop' tomorrow I wouldn't be overly concerned and look at it as a good excuse to chuck a 24v motor in. The cost of getting the work done is only a few hundred less than the cars worth in any case.