aks_uk

Was just having a look under the bonnet and found another major problem. The Distributor's (spark distributor's) hold down bolts were also loose. When trying to tighten them, I noticed that the bolts just kept on spinning..it seems that the thread in the holes have got worn and now they just wont tighten. Is there anyway around this problem?

Tried tapping the damn thing but no difference...revved the car to its limits a couple of times and it started working. Running nice and smooth today thankfully, just hope it stays like this, if not then I guess I'll post again for a replacement part. Thanx again for the support. Akhtar

thanx for the advice will try that...but if that doesn't work, is it easy to remove? and approximately how much will it be for a new part?

Hi guys...I'm in desperate need of some advice. After 2 months of my car not running right with a lumpy idle and lumpy acceleration in 1st and 2nd gears, I got my car checked out by an auto electrician. He showed me that the fuel ditributor was not pumping fuel through injector no.1. This was done by loosening the bolts on the fuel distributor one by one..each time it had an 'dying' effect except for when no.1 was loosened, no effect..when it was taken off, the fuel wasn't pumping out as would be expected. Can anybody tell me if replacing the fuel distributor would do the job, or are there more complications that I need to consider for example fuel pump or individual injectors??. Any advice is appreciated Thanks

battery?

maybe a silly question but, does the 1.8 have a lambda sensor? I thought it's only on the catalytic convertor models.

I think you're right, will have to book it in with a specialist to end my troubles once and 4 all, anyone know of any in London?? If not, I may have to take it to the dealers, which'll probably cost a fortune.

just started the C to take it to the garage...and she's driving so smooth and beautifully. As the car temperature hit 90 she started stuttering again, luckiliy when I got to the garage. The guy there thinks it's the thermostat now. Could it be this? I'm gonna get one now, but won't be able to fit until next week as I'll be away on holiday. I appreciate all the replies...hope it will be sorted when I come back as I haven't been able to drive it properly in 4 weeks and I'm kinda missin it...I'm sure every Corrado owner understands.

thanx for the replies guys will mention these things to the garage.

plugs, leads, whole distrubutor, cap and rotor arm have been changed as I thought one of these might be the cause, but definately not. might be a stupid question, but where abouts is the main loom?..oh and also.. it's a valver. thanx

Just got my car back from the garage, who took my engine apart and changed all the gaskets. They told me that everything was ok and nothiing else needed changing. It drove well for about half an hour until the accelaration just started to feel as though it's stuttering...deja vu...it's exactly what happened 4 weeks ago before it started idling at around 400 like it's choking, and would not pick up speed. It totally freaked me out then, which is the reason I took it into the garage in the first place. Before it gets to that stage, I want to take it back to the garage tomorrow, but I need an idea on what it might be as they obviously have no idea, which is why the problem has come back. Please can someone help. Any suggestions appreciated.

thanx Henny,

sorry, and also does it prefer fully or semi-synthetic?

does anyone know what rating oil the 16V should use?

Ok, I will be visiting my local branch tomorrow. I should think that they'll know what I need, but will mention all of the above. Looks like it shouldn't cost that much in total. The guy at the garage got a quote for the gasket kit from his supplier, believe it or not, he quoted me £160 :shock: . I knew that good ol' GSF would quote me happy :D .......jus hope they have the stuff in stock :|

Hi everyone, My C recently failed on me. I am getting the engine rebuilt at a local garage. They quoted me £300 for the work. Anyways, I need to get a complete Gasket kit, including all seals and gaskets needed for a rebuild. I need to know what this kit is actually called as I have looked on GSF website but can only see a 'cylinder head gasket set' for £38. Is this what I'm looking for, if not where can I get it? Many Thanks

:cry: my car is f****d!! Been drivin it around all day with no problems until now. I thought it was just pinking, until the noise got louder and louder. The revs were so sluggish sit at around 400rpm at idle, any acceleration whatsoever caused this loud ticking noise. I looked under the bonnet and the engine was shaking like mad and throttle caused the ticking noise to come from the block, sound like a wrench repeatedly banging on it. I know my car has had it's days, I'm thinking that the pistons have died or something. I would appreciate any suggestions to bring it back to life. Considering an engine transplant or rebuild. Anybody have any idea where I could start?

I did the same, got them from GSF but then returned them coz they didn't fit properly. Just bought some from eurocarparts, they look identical to the original ones, and only cost me £34+VAT :) . Just fitted them in and will be takin it for a test drive. Will update on how I get on.

Thanx, just been to an MOT garage. They adjusted my timing and checked emissions. They said that CO, CO2, O2 etc were fine but HC was too high. They then hooked it up to a different machine to test my spark plugs and leads, all the plugs were ok except the resistance on lead no.3 is too high, hence misfiring and unburnt fuel from exhaust. Does this sound about right?. They recommended me to buy new leads, so am going to eurocarparts now to get them.

I didn't know what to do, I just about manged to fit the dizzy in place setting the rotor arm at TDC, it now starts (after 2weeks) so I guess I'll be taking it to the garage tomorrow to get it tuned. Do I have to take it to a specialist or do most local garages have the equipment needed to tune?

just took my car out for a test drive and it feels like s**t and still smoking after it's warmed up. It is not accelerating as it used to, it feels as though i'm towing another car. I'm a bit worried now as I have to consider a bebuild, but there be any chance that it might be to do with the ignition timing? because I aint tried advancing or retarding the distributor, instead I just slapped it on. Does anybody know which way to turn it to advance it, and effect it has on the way it drives?

About a month ago I serviced my car with oil change, oil filter, spark plugs, etc. Two weeks ago my C started revving erratically before dying out, then would not fire up. I manged to root the problem down to the distributor which I changed with another unit and replaced the cap and rotor arm. It starts fine now however, there is plenty of white smoke from the exhaust, especially when i poot my foot down. I have done search for white smoke and come up with many different causes ie. valve seals, just steam, CO mixture etc.....does anybody have any idea what white smoke really indicates and why it might be affecting me after this service? Many thanx

just called the ex-owner of my distributor and guess what? it has already got a working hall sender within it. So I won't be needing to change it after all :) (what a relief!!). However I am now stuck on how to fit it as I don't know much about setting up the timing or that stuff about the crankshaft. SteveM16v have a look at the following link if you want to know about the TDC. Oh and by the way it's a great site with contents of the Bentley Manual (don't know if it's the full manual, but it's very useful) http://volkswagen.msk.ru/vw_doc/eva2/FU03/ch5.2.html

I've been trying to get the pin out from ther lower coupling on the distributor using a punch and a hammer. Does anybody have any tips on how to get this out, because I've been trying for the past hour. thanx

thanx for clarifying :)