Roger Blassberg

You could put red wine glasses on each of the coasters (having first drunk the red wine, of course). Then, your concerns would melt away as if by magic........ But seriously, the position of the intermediate shaft doesn't really matter much as all it does is to drive the oil pump, and to provide a home for the reduction gears which are there to reduce the cam sprocket sizes to manageable proportions. How thick are your (very innovative) cam locks? They just about fit in, they are certainly not a whole sprocket-tooth out. I think that a slightly stretched chain is probably the explanation. Remember that the top tensioner doesn't work to its fullest extent until there is oil pressure. How have you got the engine to turn over with that corroded bore? Best wishes RB

I want a centre console as well, so if you have more than one please quote a price. Thanks RB

I have found that a long ball-ended 8mm allen key/socket is the easiest solution. It will articulate at the angle needed to get right into the socket of the screws and then you can put the torque onto it without it slipping. Best wishes RB

As Gaz says, fit new bearings, genuine VAG ones are worth paying a bit extra for. Don't over-tighten the retaining nut or they will wear out very quickly. Don't forget to swap the ABS cages over to the new discs (sounds obvious but is easily forgotten.............). Best wishes RB

The pump whines. Especially at full lock. The one on my '94 Passat has done so for the past 10 years at least, but it still works perfectly and doesn't leak. As above, do NOT use Automatic Transmission Fluid, only VW specified. Best wishes RB

I'm afraid that that is un-useable. Even a 20thou' (0.5mm) rebore is unlikely to get through that deep corrosion. But look on the bright side- you had a lot of fun taking it to bits, you met some nice people along the way and you now have a very unusual boat anchor sitting in your garage.......... or you could turn it into a Top Gear coffee table. Best wishes RB

In the process of removing/replacing the dashboard to do the heater matrix, the plastic casing which houses the ashtray/lighter/heater dials/radio/switches/central vents has been damaged. It still functions but at some time I would like to replace it. If anyone has one in good condition please let me know. It's a '94 VR6 with rotary heater controls and later push on/push off switches. Is it the same as a B3 Passat? It's different to my B4. Thanks RB

They claim that they can turn them round in a matter of 3-4 days. Don't be fobbed off with "We tested it and found nothing wrong". Get it re-built, then you have their lifetime warranty for the sake of another £75 or so over and above the test fee. The valve block certainly doesn't like old brake fluid with the moisture that gets absorbed into it so change it every couple of years. I think the system goes through a test sequence; when you start up and get up to about 10mph there is a definite pulsing (audible and felt through the bodywork) so hopefully this would keep all the valves free. Obviously standing around unused for lengthy periods is not good to the system. Best wishes RB

Took the dash out. I can't imagine that it's possible otherwise, but no doubt someone will pop up to say it is. Best wishes RB

I can second that. They are in Rochester, Kent. They will test it for £35 + vat, and post it back for about £10. A rebuild, with a "lifetime warranty" costs about £100 + vat, with the test fee rolled into that. Best wishes RB

New Febi Bilstein motor fitted, and all is now well ! It's a simple enough job. While you have the wiper mechanism out, check the rivetted connections to the spindle housings for looseness. I drilled one out and replaced it with a suitable nut and bolt which really tightened the whole thing up. Also replaced the rubber grommet at the motor support bracket/scuttle connection. The wipers are now very good. Best wishes RB

Borachris, I have not yet done anything about this as the leak is so slow that it is not a major issue. I have a new elbow and seal waiting to go on but not yet done the rad replacement. I can't believe that it is 18 months since I started that thread......... Best wishes RB

Thanks for your replies. I have ordered a new one via eBay for £26 incl postage, so hopefully I'll be able to sort it out soon. Best wishes RB

Job now done. The diverter flap in the heater box is a bit of a mess, and rather stiff to turn the control knob, but I' ll live with it for the time being and sort it out in the Summer (anyone remember what Summer is??). RB

The wipers have decided to "go slow". Sometimes they get half way across the screen and stop especially if the screen is dry-ish, sometimes they behave normally. Is the motor the likely culprit? Is it a common Golf/Passat part? I Have the Lupo GTi blades conversion. I changed the intermittent relay on the fuse box with no improvement. Best wishes RB

The other possibility is that the ribbon cassette behind the steering wheel is faulty. It is bolted to the back of the wheel and maintains contact with the airbag as it is turned. It is very easy to change. Best wishes RB

I think it is a discontinued part from VAG, but look on ebay, I bought a genuine one recently. Silly money for what it is, but needs must..... Now the cautionary tale. Be aware that the bolts holding the elbow on screw into captive nuts moulded into the top plastic casing of the radiator and are prone to siezing, with the result that the casing will crack when you try to undo them. Give the bolts a liberal dose of WD40 or Wurth Rostoff Ice releasing fluid, from the top and the underside, repeatedly for several days before attempting to undo them. Otherwise you may need a new radiator. RB

Thanks for a comprehensive and quick response. Looks like my Easter entertainment is taken care of.......... RB

Steamy windows, damp smells....... no, not the sequel to "50 Shades of Grey". It's the dreaded leaking heater. Again. Last time, about 7 years ago, I paid someone to do it - 8 hours of labour allegedly -, and I am thinking that it can't be that difficult to do myself. In fact the last effort resulted in a lack of windscreen demisting on the passenger side and a very (cough) stiff control knob, so all this needs sorting too. The Wiki article looks rather simplistic and lacks detail, with all due respect to the author,. If there is anyone out there who can share experiences on taking out the dashboard without breaking the heater controls etc., I would be grateful. Does the fact that I have the dealer-fitted air conditioning make it any more complex? I don't want to have to repeat this yet again, so what are the most reliable replacement matrices? Thanks RB

I have the original gearbox from my 16V ABF Passat (either CTM or CTN can't remember off the top of my head,) sitting in the garage. It has very low 1st 2nd and 3rd with a final drive set up for 15" wheels. Best wishes RB

Not C specific. Sensors and cages are standard VW and cheap enough, although the rear sensors come with the cable and are not quite as cheap. RB

Well there's a surprise to find you lurking here too Matt..................... RB

What David says about the ABF I can support. I have a B4 Passat with the ABF engine and it really is very spritely despite hauling a big estate car and having covered over 230,000 miles. I recently drove a VR6 Passat (AAA engine) and it didn't feel any faster; although there is more low revs torque it is blunted a bit by higher gearing in the VR6. The ABF is a very fine engine, quite likely to be turning out significantly more than the quoted 150 PS/110kW. Matt (on UKPassats forum) reckons on 170 PS/125 kW from his. Best wishes RB

You are probably aware that the later top tensioner is a solid pad of plastic, rather than the riveted composite plastic/metal which you have. I agree that it is in good condition, but if you intend to keep the car "for ever" I think the newer type is more durable and in your situation I would put that in , particularly as you have done 90% of the work already to get at it. I would tke the bottom half of the timing case off now to replace the crankshaft oil seal behind the flywheel and to investigate the jamming of the engine which may be caused by the lower chain/ guide/ tensioner. Or the oil pump, driven by the intermediate sprocket/shaft has something jamming it. Or maybe there is something in the combustion chamber actually obstructing the piston as it rises; this will be obvious when you take the head off. You shouldn't need to get the head skimmed unless it is pitted/corroded due to low concentrations of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant over the years. I would, though, have it checked for flatness even if it looks good to the naked eye. These heads are easily warped by overheating, and I would hazard a guess that the previous owner may have been a bit careless judging by the head gasket damage, almost certainly done when the chain job was carried out. Good luck and keep the questions coming if you need to; that's what we are all here for! RB

You should be able to get the camshafts out once the plunger has been removed and the top chain is slack, but you won't be able to get the top tensioner blade out because its pivot is below the split line, nor the chain, because it won't go past the middle transfer sprocket with the lower cover in place. To get the lower cover off you have to take off the the clutch and the flywheel. As you say, if the valve timing is correct, then the engine should turn over without restriction.