Roger Blassberg

yes, there is a special tool for detaching the HT lead cap from the plug, either a cheap and nasty plastic one which has a home attached to the bonnet support strut, or a more substantial metal one (apparently. I have the aforementioned plastic one....). Anyway, it's to prevent pulling the cap off the cable. Sounds as though the ceramic insulator of your plug has come away, leaving the threaded base of the plug in the head; this shouldn't make it impossible to unscrew the base, because the hexagonal bit is still there. Maybe it's tight, but it sounds as though it should still come out cleanly; a good deep socket is what you need. Give the recess a good blowout with compressed air before you undo it to get any bits out which might otherwise fall into the cylinder. It's much too early to start thinking about drilling and tapping. Have a beer, leave it for a while and then come back to it. Sorry if that sounds condescending, but it usually works..... Best wishes RB

Final chapter; Kev, the part number is 191 937 503. It goes into position 4 on the relay board, and, if an OE part, has number 18 in large figures printed onto the cover. It is just a fairly bog-standard 4-pin relay, rated at 40A, with a parallel resistor across the solenoid. Manufactured by Hella, catalogue number 4RA003510-58. I have just replaced it, and everything is back to normal. (Excuse the pedantry, but it's called a load REDUCTION relay). Just the steering wheel cowling to do. Best wishes RB

Well, I survived the contortionists' class, but was unable to get at the little screw that holds the ignition switch onto the back of the lock because it seems to be obscured by the lock barrel. All I managed to do was to break the cowling where the self tapping screws go through to clamp the bottom half to the top. Super glue to the rescue!! Why ffs do VW use such cheap plastic for these parts?? :mad: Anyway, it's all back together for the time being, with a precautionary cable tie around it, and I have ordered a new upper cowling - less than a tenner from you-know-where. I also ordered new shear bolts for the lock barrel clamps, so I'll take the lot off once they arrive and do it whilst remaining upright. By the way, the new ignition switch from my supplier is made by Febi Bilstein, and I must say it looks fairly cheap and cheerful. Any feedback on the quality/track record of this would be welcomed. Kev, thanks for your advice on the relay; I'll delve into Bentley and find the right one. Something has definitely gone awol, because all those circuits that are supposed to be supressed during cranking, well, they aren't !! I must remember not to sound the horn and have the seat servos going next time I turn her over. Best wishes RB

My '94 VR6 (R coded chassis number) does not have a factory-fitted immobiliser. Best wishes RB

Thanks, yet again. It sounds as though it's too simple - don't tell the car thieves. My local supplier charges under £10 for the switch, by the way One potential complication is that I have electric Recaros, so taking the seat out may well be more difficult. I think I might be able to manage by running both front seats fully back and reclining them, and lying across them both with my head in the footwell, followed by one course of treatment at the chiropractor for my back and another at the proctologist to retrieve the gearstick !! If you never hear from me again, you'll know that I wasn't able to get back out .... Have a good weekend, Best wishes RB

Thanks Henny. Yes, it sounds as though the switch may be sticking internally in the "disconnect during cranking" mode after returning the barrel to position 2. I'm mystified by the way that turning on the headlights gets it all back, though. Maybe the additional current kicks it back into action. As I said in my original message, this is an intermittent fault. There is a further twist; equally intermittently, the blower, wipers etc stay on AFTER switching off the ignition if, and only if, the headlights are switched on, but only until the Laserline immobiliser cuts everything 10 secs after switching off. So the switch is behaving as though it is sticking in position 2 in those circumstances Come to think of it, this problem has only surfaced since I did one of Kev's headlight loom conversions, so the current going through the light switch is significantly reduced; perhaps this is upsetting something. I have deduced, from other people's problems documented here, that light switches are a bit temperamental too. OK, I'm going to change the ignition switch and take it from there. Am I right to think that the switch itself is not integral with the column lock, but is attached to the back of it and is accessed by splitting the column cowling? Would the steering wheel and the stalks need to come off to get at it?

My specialist says that the X relief relay may be sticking. I have never heard of this. It apparently has something to do with cutting out certain electrical equipment during engine cranking. There are some odd gremlins, the most odd of which is that the ABS warning light stays on very occasionally immediately after start-up, accompanied by failure of the wipers, heater blower and maybe other things. This situation is cleared by switching on the headlights!! Where is this mysterious X relief relay and is it responsible for the problems I am experiencing? MOT coming up, and the last thing I want is for the ABS light to disgrace itself in public or for the wipers to fail. Best wishes RB

I had the same. So many things were changed and/or checked that it's impossible to say with absolute certainty what it was , but the biggest improvement by far came when the wiring to the lambda probe was sorted out. It still threatens to stall very very occasionally, usually after a few minutes of light throttle running followed by dipping the clutch at a junction or traffic lights, but more often than not it gets caught in time. Especially if it's using lots of fuel as well, I suggest you look at your lambda probe and the associated wiring. Best wishes RB

I've just realised that you are in USA - I assume that you sit in the left seat to drive. So what I should have said was, "low down on the right side at the front of the car". Best wishes RB

You are getting water onto the pulley and belt that drive the pas pump, which is low down on the driver's side at the front of the car. This makes the belt slip until it shakes all the water off. There will probably be some squealing associated with this as well. Check the adjustment of the belt, better still, replace it with a new one. It's a separate belt from the waterpump/alternator one. I think some cars have a water shield to help prevent this. Best wishes RB

Further to this, I have noticed that the rate of air flow to the screen is not very high, even on full blast, and is particularly poor to the passenger side. This was true even before the dash was removed for the heater matrix replacement, so it's not as a result of that. I had naively expected that it might have improved as a result of the reinstallation - will I ever shake off this foolish optimism ?? Are there some seals on flap valves which deteriorate over time, or is it perhaps that the control cables need adjusting? Maybe the ducting is not properly assembled, or it might just be an inherent design weakness which other people suffer and tolerate. As already detailed above, the screen control cable does need replacing with the new improved version and I'l do that soon, but I would like to improve the demisting flow rate at the same time. Compared to the blower in my similar-vintage Passat, which practically blows the screen out on full chat, it is dreadful. The blower is apparently in good fettle, operating at all speeds and without the moans and groans of past Golfs.The only saviour is that I have air conditioning which significantly improves the demisting performance even at low flow rates. Best wishes RB

Finally on this, I have now booked an appointment with Vince at Stealth, in late August, so let's hope that nothing goes bang in the meantime !! Thanks again for all your diagnoses. Best wishes RB

good grief !! :shock: no, it sounds nothing like that. It's a very regular rhythmic rattle, as I said similar to a big end clattering away. It disappears when the engine gets up to 60 deg and only at low-ish revs.. OK, thanks all, and good night. The thing to do is to get the old girl to a proper doctor. Referals to good experts in Herts/Beds are gratefully received; if not I will make The Pilgrimage to the famous "Vince at Stealth", who seems to know what's what. Who knows, he might be able to cure the pinking as well!! Best wishes RB

There's a rattle from the engine when I start it from cold. I can't work out where it's coming from. It's worse at low revs, and disappears above about 2000 rpm. I never take the revs above 2500 until the oil gets above 70 deg. It is more pronounced if the aircon is running. Once the engine is warm it goes away altogether at any engine speed. Oil pressure (cold) seems good; if I start the engine from cold, the oil pressure warning light has gone out before the engine has caught. Switch off immediately then back to position 2, and the light takes at least 10 secs to reappear. The rattle is regular and similar to a big end. The head/cams and bearings/followers/springs/etc all are less than 10K miles, but the rest is 171K. I've no evidence that the cam drive chains/tensioners have ever been changed. I am a bit confused as, if it were a big end , I would expect it to be more pronounced when the engine is hot and the oil pressure is lower. Also, it goes away at 2000-ish when cold, or at lower speed on a progressively lighter throttle. Needless to say, I drive VERY lightly until it warms up. Oil is Magnatec, changed very regularly. I haven't yet taken out plugs 1 and 6 to see if there is any ovalisation, leading to possible piston slap - what does piston slap sound like ?? I recognise that diagnosis is difficult from afar, but perhaps I'm not the first one to have had this problem, and I would welcome any help or suggestions. Best wishes RB

I changed the oil and filter yesterday. There's just the faintest unease in my mind about the filter, now I come to think about it. The old filter was Mann, the new is Mahle. They look identical , both have a locating clip at the bottom which presses onto the retainers in the bottom of the filter bowl, both have a rubber diaphragm which I assume is the non-return valve, both have the same small diameter central passageway. The new one came from a highly respected parts man (Murray MacDonald in Hatfield, Herts) and stated the application to the VR6 engine. It's just that the manufacturer is different. Words of comfort gratefully received. Best wishes RB

Thanks Kev. I assume that it's accessed initially by pulling off the 3 rotary heater controls, followed by the panel behind them, all with great care, and then using common sense. This sounds like it might be a job for a gynaecologist!! I've just got my Bentley manual which may also help me. To be fair, my usual specialist does take care with my cars and will immediately sort it out if there's a minor niggle, but ultimately if you want something done properly............ Incidentally, your headlight circuit relay fix went in without a hitch, and together with uprated (standard power) bulbs, the night now holds no fears for me. Best wishes RB

I've just had the dash removed and re-fitted for a heater matrix replacement job, and ever since the twist control for air direction has become very stiff when turning to the screen position. From Kev's message it sounds as though there's a potential failure of the controls. What needs to be done to rectify this? Has the dash got to come out again? If it has, I'll throw it back to the people who did the job, but if it's something I can do releatively easily I will do it myself - I'm fed up with taking it in with one problem and coming home with 2 new ones. Best wishes RB

While having the cam belt changed, make sure that the tensioner is replaced too. Best wishes RB

Thanks phat. It's always nice to be different, although maybe they know something I don't. Best wishes RB

thanks Chris. Is that neutered cat still on the prowl....? I'm still interested. Best wishes RB

I had a very detailed PM from Ess Three on this - a public "thank you" for that. Another thread then caused a brain-wave- is it possible to put a G-Lader onto the existing ABF engine? If so, what is involved? What problems could I expect, apart from the obvious slight difficulty of pushing the pistons straight past the rods, and talking my insurance company into accepting the idea.....? It may be a little far-fetched, but if such a thing as a G60 Synchro Passat exists then it may be that all of the difficulties have been sorted out already. And anyway, it's an interesting intellectual exercise which everyone will enjoy!! Finally, apologies that Passat-related questions have crept onto this hallowed ground. Best wishes RB

I have to say that to save less than the price of a tankful of Optimax on a vital steering component seems like a false economy when, as you say, the quality difference is so apparent. I'm all for saving money when the difference is just whether it comes in a box or not, and it is a disgrace what we are charged for simple components by VAG, but when you're batting down the motorway, it's nice to be as certain as possible that it's all properly tied together. I have recently seen 2 Peugeot 405s with collapsed front suspensions, looks like failed bottom ball-joints, (catastrophic if it happens at high speed) and I wonder if cut price/lower quality replacement parts are to blame? Maybe it's down to them being complete rubbish in the first place. It's a bit of a rant, I'm afraid. Perhaps it's time to buy a cardigan and some nice comfy slippers..... Best wishes RB

I suppose you have made it clear that you want the OUTER end, because of course the INNER end does only come as an integral part of the rod. (Capitals for emphasis, not for shouting ....!) By the way, when I had to replace the whole assembly on the Passat, I was warned-off pattern track rods by my specialist. He claimed that he has come across some which don't have sufficiently long threads at the outer end; this can make adjustment difficult or impossible. The question, "well why not run a die down the rod to cut a bit more thread on it ?", comes to mind. There are lots more fitters and fewer mechanics about, it seems to me. Phew ! I feel better now. Best wishes RB

anyone in the passenger seat?? :lol: (Sorry, couldn't resist it...) Best wishes RB

David, thanks for this. Yes, the whole problem is further exaggerated by unsuitable gear ratios, with a huge gap between 3 and 4 to give fast Autobahn capability. I saw a VR6 for sale about a year ago but someone else saw it first! They were very rare in this country. Best wishes RB