Exup Man

For the first time ever put my car into a garage to have some work done. New bushes all round what a difference :D

A while back mine threw a wobler and the indicators stayed on permanently. To get around it and get home I pulled the rubber boot up of the alarm box and pulled out one of the two connectors (the largest I think) It appears one does the alarm and the other the cetral locking. I only needed the central locking because I had a toad alarm fitted. As for the indicators the relay that makes them flash is knakered so I removed it and reconnected the alarm so they dont flas when it arms.

I didn't heat mine up but wish I had. I spent ages with a scalpel slicing through the glue. To re-bond the lens I used tiger seal as I had some left over from putting the rear quater lights in. The other thing to watch out for if you use a standard air box is that the bulb cover on the right hand light fouls it.

I've got the Sonar ones and to be honest not bad for just over £100 BUT they are not adjustable from LHD to RHD. I took the glass out, unscrewed the beam deflector and flipped it over. My car was MOT'd yesterday went straight through with just a pair of tyres. :D

Jim I know nothing about electrics so I could be wrong but I had a similar problem last year that was worse in the heat. I thought it was the starter or key. As the key was easier to change I did and noticed the size of the wire going to the starter was large and assumed a lot of that 'electrical magic thingy' goes down it. My car has a Toad power key that I think inhibits the fuel pump, coil and starter. I'm guessing it's only meant to handle relays and not starter solenoids so I put the starter back to the original wire (Power key still inhibits the coil and pump) and have not had a problem since.

Not mine but I think I've seen it about also. Picture of mine is below. If the Blackberry would of had a for sale sign in the window it would of been my Mrs next car!

I saw this in the flesh at my local Focus DIY store last weekend. Lovley looking standard car. Spent 10 minutes talking to the previous owner in the rain. Maybe see you around.

Kip, I cut mine out myself. It was one of those jobs that you can do at home but wonder why you ever started doing it. I removed all the inner trim and started with an extended craft knife on the bottom. Once I was though I pushed a wedge in and continued round but as mentioned the seal is bonded to the glass so be carefull. Just remember lots of soapy water. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=61000#p715737

Finally got round to fitting mk4 rear calipers so I could find out what the car is like with a long pedal. :(

My car was dyno'd at Stealth back in 2004. It made 180.8 bhp @ 5699 and 174.1 lb ft @ 4502 on the second run. My car was standard apart from a Miltek exhaust. Vince said the pulley looked standard and Optimax would help further. I'll dig out the graph. I've got a SNS chip and 68mm pulley waiting to be installed. Ive just finished the FMIC. Once the charger has been rebuilt I'll get it done again. Does anyone know what tolerance was on the original bhp figures?

Stripped and cleaned my FK Silverline X coilovers. Good news and bad. The fronts appear to be seized but they cleaned up easily and have been re greased but both the spring seat and locking ring one one of the rears have cracked and the spring seat on the other. In the workshop tomorrow to make some stainless replacements.

I have the same problem. I have replaced the glass but the reflectors have had it and look tired compared to my inpro fogs and indicators. I plan to try a set soon will post up the pictures when finished.

:rofl: I stripped and cleaned front coilovers in a frozen puddle :( - rears next weekend

Got my car MOT'd after taking it off the road for a couple of months to tidy it up - Last November! Forgot how nice it it was to drive.

Just stuck my rear windows in with Sikaflex. I reakon that stuff would hold a house up.

I want to use the MFA to display the air charge temperatures. I doubt I can mount and seal the sensor as is. I have a spare port close to the throttle body I can use but dont know what type. Thermocouple, RTD or thermistor?

Does anybody know what type of sensor the air temp sensor is in the brake duct?

I used one of the thin craft knives that you extend a break a bit off when they loose the edge. Pushed loads out so it was flexible squirted some soapy glass cleaner on the inside of the window and sat in the back of the car hacking away for the next 2 hours with a crate of stella. :lol:

I cut the rear quater glass out for a respray. I was intending getting it bonded back in by a professional but have just managed to get hold of some Sikaflex. Does anyone know if you also need an primer?

Big Thanks to Blue_Joe. Top bloke sold me lots of parts and put a lot of effort into removing them for me.

I bought a bag of assorted pan and flange head interior screws off ebay for a about a fiver.

I was quoted £49.50 each from the stealer's about a month ago. I bought some from GPC at inters the other week for about £35 and they also have the hinge covers for the tailgate.

Thanks to m3evo for my pulley and belt, No hassle and quick delivery.

Quick update. I have had a look around the earth's nothing seems out of place. After reading several posts on similar problems I unplugged the Lambda, I've only tried it once but the problem did not re-appear. Can someone give me a brief overview of when the Lambda is used?

I have a ’91 G60. First of all – passed the MOT yesterday - straight through after 3 years of replacing various callipers, brake lines and gaiters. Now for the problem. A while back it started to miss a beat coming of roundabouts and occasionally the idle was erratic. Changed fuel filter, plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap, Lamda and vacuum line to the ECU. For a while there was an improvement. Now its started playing up again when warm (after driving for 10miles and then leaving to stand for 1 hour). It starts fine but when you start to drive it coughs and splutters and will not pick up for ½ mile. I’m not sure if its starvation or flooding. Once it does pick it will be fine until I stop again. This only happens when warm. I checked the vacuum lines again the one to the carbon canister had perished. I repaired that but it still does it. I’m getting a little concerned as it seems to take longer to pick up each day.