RichieSounds

i've just put 215/40/16s on mine. I've got Koni TAs and Eibach springs. It's pretty firm, and harrowing when you encounter a pot hole unexpectedly, but feels tight around roundabouts. the tyres are pirelli p zeros. Anyone else running a setup similar to this?

so the end effect of putting say 55 depth tyres on a 16" wheel would end up with a longer circumference, and a greater overall radius. 15" = 38.1 cm 16" = 40.64 cm 17" = 43.18 cm 205/50/15 depth: 50% of 205 mm = 10.25 cm 205/40/16 depth: 40% of 205 mm = 8.2 cm 205/45/16 depth: 45% of 205 mm = 9.225 cm 205/50/16 depth: 50% of 205 mm = 10.25 cm 215/40/16 depth: 40% of 215 mm = 8.6 cm 215/50/16 depth: 50% of 215 mm = 10.75 cm So. 15" rim with 205/50/15 diameter: 38.1 + (10.25 x 2) = 58.6 cm 16" rim with 205/40/16 diameter: 40.64 + (8.2 x 2) = 57.04 cm 16" rim with 205/45/16 diameter: 40.64 + (9.225 x 2) = 59.09 cm 16" rim with 205/50/16 diameter: 40.64 + (10.25 x 2) = 61.14 cm 16" rim with 215/40/16 diameter: 40.64 + (8.6 x 2) = 57.84 cm 16" rim with 215/50/16 diameter: 40.64 + (10.75 x 2) = 62.14 cm 17" rim with 215/40/17 diameter: 43.18 + (8.6 x 2) = 60.38 cm So you hear of people saying that the handling of their Corrado changes (ie 'tram lining' at speed) once they've stuck on 17" rims. Not surprising. But the end effect of enlarging your rims conservatively and putting 16" rims could have the same effect if you put on 50 depth tyres. But you may just get away with it on 16s with 40 depth tyres... I bought my wheels, and think they don't quite fill the arches enough, but that's probably a case of needing to lower the suspension a little as opposed to putting on larger profile tyres. I've got a feeling i've just re-invented the 'tyre size calculator' I've heard about but not seen. Can someone link me to it please?

i'm not sure quite what tyres to go for - i've got the opportunity to buy a set of bbs rx 16" rims with no tyres. I'm coming from owning standard 15" speedlines so am accustomed to the flexible ride of these 205/50/15 tyres, and like it. so if i go for the 16" rims can i stick 50 profile tyres on them, or am i limited to specific tyre sizes? If i take the 205/40/16 tyres i'm presumably losing some depth of tyre, but gaining radius of rim, so ending up with less 'squish'. is that correct? Could i even put 55 profile tyres on these rims, hence increasing the rolling circumference?

as a complete novice to auto mechanics I successully converted my auto to manual thanks to your guide. Thank you very much for the guide.

that sounds quite DIY... has anyone got one that's OE I wonder?

I was just wondering if anyone with AC in their Corrado could have a look at the trim with built in shelf around the passenger foot well - is it a hacked up frankenstein job done when the aftermarket kit was installed, or is it a proper VW AC friendly part? I've just spent a half a day trying to make mine look good (it was originally hacked to pieces by the installer and botched together) and I'm quite pleased with the result: my version even covers the AC pipes coming in through the firewall. Let's see yours!

A mate asked me if I know of anywhere where he could get a reasonably priced gearbox to replace the one in his Polo that's got problems. I thought this would be a good place to ask! Any ideas? The other option he was looking at was getting it rebuilt, which was gonna cost £450 + fitting £150 + VAT. fitting seems quite reasonable, but is that rebuild cost at all high do you think? thanks for any help.

for what it's worth - i found that the thermal resistor(s) are mounted to a circuit board that is mounted to the side of the casing above the blower iteself. it's clearly visible if you remove the blower and look up! Check the connectors on the outside : mine were loose so tightening that sorted the problem with no fan on settings 1-3.

has anyone had any joy working out whether there is a thermal resistor in the diavia air con setup?

Well that's that!

I know loads of people have diy'ed their own 3rd brake light into place but i've been looking into getting the american brake light from a dealer. The parts needed according to ETKA7 are: 535 945 121 - Housing with bulb holder use if required: 867 906 231 @ £11 535 945 131 - Addtional Brake Light @ £18 +N 017 753 2 x 3 - Bulb +171 857 026 A x 2 - Hex. nut, shouldered 867 906 231 - Flat terminal pin housing, 2 pin. For single wiring: 000 979 105/6 Costs are not looking too bad, but the question is can the stealer get the parts. Before I go and order em I wanted to check to see if anyone has gone down this route before? Also, what's the deal with wiring this exta light in? I'm presuming it should be quite straightforward.

Thanks I've removed it. Heading over now to the parts for sale section...

I followed a guide on the canada corrado club website when installing my Schrick VGI. The instructions told me to leave out the 'silencer': described as a 'cigarette packet sized box' it connects to the ISV. I just want to confirm this: should I definitely not attach it? A picture is attached to help describe wtf i'm talking about... thank you, and incidentally, what does this box actually silence? and why is it not required when the schrick is installed?

It is a great shame when companies made a reputation by being the best, turn into a business for making money and cease to really care about their customers. I think that is when they start having real problems. I couldn't agree more, amd had a good reputation and it was tarnished by greedy behaviour recently so I say good riddance to the modern re-incarnation.

I spoke to the garage. They said they fitted front Apex springs as they are a little harder than the eibachs, and thought that would complement the handling. I thought eibach were notoriously firm?

I had Eibach springs fitted by a garage about 2 years ago, at the same time as having koni TAs fitted. I've recently found that actually the front springs are made by Apex. I do trust the garage where the work was done, but can anyone see any reason why they would have seen an advantage in fitting these Apex springs to the front? Obviously i'm planning on calling them but want to see if there's any sense gone into this first. I've noticed (coincidentally...) over the last 2 years that on a hard turn from standstill I hear a 'clunk' from either near or off side front. Looking at the upper spring plate on both shocks, I can see the top of the spring does not sit very well at all; the spring looks a little out of shape. I'm wondering if that's the cause of the clunking... Could this be the fix for the clunk? Thank you in advance.

off she span... the rod rotated loads too but i presume that doesn't matter thanks for the tip Mike

i have access to a compressed air impact driver so could try that. So forget about trying to prevent the rod from rotating, turn the torque up high and blast it? Well I'm going to hold the rod near the top with some rubber and vice grips and use the impact driver on it.

I'm trying to remove the Koni shocks from my corrado. And it's not having it.. Can someone help please? The small hex bolt head on the top of the shock has worn, meaning I can't stop the shock rod from rotating as I try to loosen the large bolt... I can't get a grip on it with a socket, but maybe could with a vice. Would it be better to vice grip the piston rod at the top of the spring to hold it in place, and try to loosen the bolt above the top mount that way?

Apparently the Logic 800 is actually a Sigma SG2 I think. So is it still necessary to have both systems installed? Also, I'm trying to work out whether I can get total closure working - anyone know if this can be set up or should work with this system?

My car has this SG800 Transponder Immobiliser System + VW Logic 800 Code hopping Alarm Immobiliser. I read that from the 2 leaflets (instructions) in the glove box. I've found both control units: The Logic 800 system control unit is just below the fuse panel. The SG800 control unit is located just to the left of the drivers footwell. It seems over-kill to have 2 devices behaving as immobilisers doesn't it? The SG800 requires I carry these transponder gadgets around on my keys which look like sepositories! Can I uninstall it?

FWIW I've found the problem. The noise was coming from the clutch release bearing rubbing gently on the clutch springs. So obvious; silent but deadly!! A big thank you to everyone who helped

can anyone add anything?

There is a limit of acceptable end play for the crank of .25 mm. I'm thinking that the end play on this engine is more the that of the previous engine. Could this be the cause of the problem? If it is then I hope that when the engine is running, the crank will 'correct' itself and sit naturally at a happy medium. The only way to find out is to re-install the engine and try it... Is this lunacy? Is there something I'm missing?

well I've read through that guide already and it doesn't give any clues for this problem. I'm gonna send a PM to the guy who wrote that guide so thanks for reminding me. Any other ideas?