RichieSounds

I'm working with two 94 Corrado VR6s: One was an auto, and the other a manual. I've got the manual gearbox/clutch/diff off in one piece and I'm attempting to fit it to the engine which used to have an auto gearbox. Between the two engines the crank shaft looks identical except that the old auto engine has a slightly deeper hole: up to the lip it's identical, but further in the hole it is a little deeper on the auto. Vince from Stealth warned me to look out for a bearing within the crank itself on the auto engine: to my eyes I can't see one. I am sure the flywheel is on straight. Having fitted the gearbox correctly, the splines of the first motion shaft interlock fine. The clutch housing bolts on fine no gaps anywhere and the dowels line in perfectly. I wind the crank from the other end with a socket and wrench, and if I place longitudinal pressure on the crank shaft I can hear a grating noise coming from the clutch housing: however, if I try hard to not push on the crank shaft the grating does not occur, or not so much. It sounds very much like the flywheel ring gear's teeth fouling the clutch casing. Having removed the clutch housing/gearbox etc I can see that the corners of the flywheel ring gear teeth are shiny like they've been in contact with the alum. clutch housing. I've been filing certain areas that could come in to contact right down, but still the grating is evident. I take it there is longitudinal play on the crank shaft, but is that a problem? Should I carry on filing away the areas of the clutch housing that may be coming in to contact with the flywheel? I am stumped and any help would be very much appreciated. Has anyone come across this before?

Count me in for the most expensive, safest, waterproof system you design! i don't want to repeat what has happened with a cheaper loom already..

brilliant. Thanks David. It was looking at me all along!

For lack of a more suitable place to post this, i've posted here. I'm using ETKA v6, and have a part that I cannot identify. In ETKA, I enter the part number in the 'enter part number' box from the 'functions' drop down list. This shows a dialog called 'parts information', but what I hope to be able to do is locate this part in an illustration. Can anyone let me know if it's possible to do this?

Great well thanks, I'll try testing it to those instructions. Are there any precarious bits I should look out for, has any one got any tips on things to look out for?

Is there one anywhere? I found a great one on the VW Vortex forum (here) for a mk IV 12v VR6, but am concerned about small differences between that engine and the corrado's vr6. I have searched through 10 pages of search results and not had any luck.

You've pointed me in the right direction there, thank you. How about fitting an automatic gearbox into a manual car? Anyone attempted this? I have tried searching for both topics; it would be useful if you could search by thread title only as opposed to title & posts. While I'm at it, is that possible?!

How many workshop hours would a job like this take? I have access to a manual gearbox, and an automatic corrado. They're both the same age, but the car itself has a mileage of around 60K whereas the gearbox has been running for about 120K. Also, would it be fair to say that an automatic VR6 engine is likely to be in quite good nick considering the engine doen't get red-lined so frequently by a heavy right foot, and presuming it's been topped up with oil regularly?

Just got it all fixed up - thanks for the advice supercharged, top tip indeed and saved me taking the car to a garage. Fitted an inline fuse there too - how come a fuse didn't blow in the fuse box i wonder?

I've just replaced the headlight switch in my 94 VR6 Corrado. The original basically ceased - one day i tried to turn the lamps on and the switch cracked clean off. I found a replacement on eBay, with the same part number, and it looked identical. I have upgraded the headlight loom. I'm told this works by using the 5v circuit that runs through the headlight switch direct to the headlamps to switch on (via a relay) the headlamps directly with 12v from the battery. I have noticed the fuse on the wire running from the battery to the headlamp terminal does need to be cleaned quite often. When I replaced the headlamp switch everything appeared to work fine. I could switch on the headlamps dipped and full beam fine. The indicator light on the switch worked fine too. So I swapped the switches, and drove off. About 20 seconds later acrid smoke appeared from the area around the headlamp switch. I stopped and pulled the new headlamp switch out. The live wire (I think) had burnt its' casing. I don't know how far back the burn has gone, but I just don't have the time ATM to investigate further and will take the car to my garage in London to get it fixed up. Do you think i'm in serious trouble?

A while ago i took my car to AMD for some engine work - they told me that I needed a new one (which they'd happily install for x million $) so I went and picked the car back up and took it to another garage. After a compression test the new garage said well the engine was fine, and was in good shape for 100,000 miles. I had asked AMD to disconnect the alarm as it was playing up, but they ended up 'losing' the alarm altogether. great! :x So I'm looking to buy another ECU, motion sensors, dashboard light, and possibly siren. The thing is that a while ago a guy who was fitting some audio kit told me he thought it was unusual in that my car had 2 'brains' for the alarm/immob. Is that normal? There's a guy on the forum that has a scorpion 5000 ecu for sale, but I want to make sure i'm buying the right thing. The code on the bottom of this ECU matches the code printed on my exisiting FOBs: 'MPT1340 W.T. License Exempt' so I thought that sounds promising... Or am i being naive? Does anyone have any thoughts as to what the 2nd ecu on my car might have done? possibly the immobiliser? I have a connector plug just behind the centre of the dash which was for connection to one of the old ecus, but haven't found another anywhere (although I was told it used to be in the passenger footwell somewhere). If anyone has any ideas and might be willing to help me out with some advice I'd be eternally grateful. Is this route too complicated to start on? The reasons for trying to re-instate the scorpion alarm are: i like the FOB. It's maybe cheaper than getting a whole new one fitted. It worked great with total-closure (although when the battery went flat I've had some major problems in the past - maybe that can be sorted out though). Many thanks for any input at all.

The garage where I get work done on the car (Gary Ward) was saying he's never seen that happen before too. I've got a few pictures on my phone of it and I'll work out how to get them on here. Just behind the nut holding the hub to the drive shaft there is a pretty clean break. Looking at the broken bit of the driveshaft with the bolt around it you can see what looks like an air pocket as you say - maybe that was the problem? He's going to replace that part of the drive shaft with something from a golf I think. Does that sounds OK/standard? Do you think I should swap the same part on the other side of the car for a new one too?

Having taken the corrado 1800m to the south coast of spain from london and getting 50 km from my destination we went over some unfinished roads where we bumped around quite intesensly for a few k's. After the bumps the ABS warning indicator came on, so we stopped, and then got going again but the disc on the off side front squealed... ABS light back on, and disc squealing away. So... took the C to a garage and they took off the wheel to find the bolt holding the brake disc hub still attached to the driveshaft... but the drive shaft had snapped straight off just behind the bolt. (hope my terminology is somehow understood...). The spanish mech (called Jesus BTW) said I had been driving with a shitted drive shaft for more than a week judging by the colour and other indications of the break. But I wonder if it was the stress of the bumps that triggered the clean snap, and that the driveshaft had been over stressed for a while and this was the last straw. So how does this sound to you? Needless to say I was freaked out by the mechanic's news - he also pointed out (what looked like surface) rust on the calipers (standard VW ones) and on the axle leading back from the CV joint to the transmission. Spanish cars have little rust so maybe this sight to him was a shock relative to spanish motors. I've had EBC discs and pads fitted all round. Pads are fine. They're gonna replace the drive shaft that comes out of the CV joint into the hub (which snapped) and also the centre of the hub (within the brake disk) as this has all worn. Discs should be OK i'm told. They're gonna give the whole drivetrain a good check-up. I've got to drive the car back to england so want to see if you guys have seen anything similar, and ask if there's anything I should watch out for, and if there's anything else I can get the VW dealers to check out. How the feck could this happen? Thanks for any input at all. I feel very lucky being around to write this post.

Bollox what a pain in the arse. gavin you'll have PM shortly. So do you think the one I've almost paid for is not the same quality as one of Gavins? Glad I read about this - only the best will do for my C :mrgreen:

a bit confused :| let me get this straight, sorry i'm sort of picking up major fag-ends. is the loom on ebay linked above one of H100VWs? if it's not then i'm gutted i bought it instead, having read what jamesmilsome just said about H100VWs looms. :D

eh? why is it an ebay triumph? only askin cos i won that auction

Just fitted some Bosch 21/19AS wipers to the front windscreen of my C. Absolutely perfect. Bought them in Halfords, can't remember how much exactly but it was uner £20. Makes a huge difference and it's as easy as unclipping the old ones and sticking these ones on. They're what the Halford book recommend you fit to a Lupo. Not like the original 18" ones but still do the job perfectly.