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Heiminator

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10 Good

About Heiminator

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 01/16/1981

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  • Location
    Paisley, Scotland

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  • Occupation
    Manufacturing Engineer

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  • Plus One
    On
  1. Also could do with both sides... Got a paint job planned but want to stock up on some seals first.. Spoke with VW Heritage who said demand for the Corrado doesn't justify trying to arrange or source another production run! I've read some chat on Classicparts.de arranging another production run in the next 2-3 months, although someone else says they've been saying that for the last year! Any further chat on an aftermarket option?
  2. Great link there Jim, a lot more cost effective than buying new, which is out of stock at vwheritage now anyways.. I take it lifting the old fabric, spraying the adhesive and laying back down isn't an option? Has anyone had a go at this? Suppose the foam won't be in the best of states underneath perhaps.. How did it go removing the old fabric / foam? Did you use any special tools/liquids? Also how did you go about trimming? Trace the shape on the fabric / measure and mark up or glue down in one piece and trim from the other side? Can anyone comment on colour match of the light grey colour?
  3. Does anyone have a solution to the left hand slot seal? As in any suitable alternatives? Could do with one myself!
  4. Jim what a great idea! I just happened to recently get my rear shocks replaced and was given the mounts back in a box.. Perfect fit within the recess of the hydraulic jack.. After observing the deformation along the seams towards the front of my car I had cut wood to spread the load in that area but reconsidered after some alarming creaking noises! Some great tips on here. Ended up using a low profile hydraulic jack on the middle bolt shown in VR6monkeys pic on Page 5 of this thread for the front.. Initially without the top mount and I think I must've caught the edge of the lip when jacking it up as there was a massive bang, and I came pretty close to soiling myself.. Was convinced I'd went through the floor of the car but turned out alright.. So tried again with top mount after reading Jims post and it went up with no drama. Was putting the rear of the car up at the same time via the flat area discussed in this thread inboard of where the dimple mark is using a standard hydraulic jack and piece of wood to spread the load a bit.. Repeated this both sides and finally happy to have found what feels like a safe and reliable method! Thanks all! [ATTACH=CONFIG]94705[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]94708[/ATTACH]
  5. Hi there, ancient thread I know but I really need to upgrade the sound set up in the VR6! One of those annoying things on the to do list that I'd like to hit next.. The less I spend the more I have to go towards the necessary respray :-( I think someone has had a go already, as the car has a Sony head unit (MEX-N4100BT) a couple of Alpine type E speakers at the front and Kenwood dual mags (6x4s)in the rear.. Bass and midrange is barely there though, so tinny! So was thinking maybe going for this recommended set up (@kdub) with the underseat sub (its available on eBay for £130 delivered now).. Have a few questions though: 1. Will the Alpines at the front suffice? 2. How do I power the sub and hook it up to the head unit? My experience in fitting extends to plug and play head units, and hooking up speakers.. I've taken a feed from a cigarette lighter to charging port as part of a Parrot system install before.. Essentially the same thing? 3. Should I still disconnect the rears despite them being better than stock speakers? If so, just disconnect at the rears spade connectors? 4. Should I also disconnect the dash speakers and just have the front door speakers + the sub hooked up? Any advice appreciated!
  6. How did you get on then? Old post, but thought I'd chuck in my tuppence worth after having a similar issue. I replaced the battery with a monster Varta and was happy for a few weeks until it died again.. After pulling fuses,and still hitting a blank i finally spotted a strange phenomenon. Likely to be an isolated case mind, but thought i'd share anyway! After washing the car and driving it into the garage, closing it and then returning to it a few mins later (had forgotten something in the garage) i spotted that the headlights were switched on.. Checked the headlight switch and it was in the off position? Flicked on and off, headlights still on!! Popped the bonnet and noted some water had collected around the battery area. FINALLY (after much head scratching and looking) turned over the headlight relay switch to find that water had been running down the bonnet support rails (sorry i'm sure that is incorrect terminology) - the area where the bonnet rests on the wings, drained across over the top of the battery and been dripping down onto the relay switch.. Two connection points were then bridged causing the headlights to come on. This took a few minutes to happen whenever washing the car, hence why i was away from it before realising the headlights were switching themselves on and draining the battery! Like i said probably an isolated case, but just something to check! I've attached a photo showing the corroded connection points where arcing had been occurring.. So replaced with an equivalent relay, silicone over the top, and used a small cable tie to keep it out the area. Also took a mountain of leaves and debris out of the scuttle panel which was probably preventing appropriate drainage.. [ATTACH=CONFIG]94567[/ATTACH]
  7. In case anyone is having a similar issue, and you still have trouble after changing the ignition switch (like i did), take a look at the starter motor area.. After first trying the ignition switch, then debating whether to get the immobiliser checked out, and after muchos muchos forum thread searching - it turned out to be the starter motor. The braided wire in the photo had corroded and was barely touching.. Depending on how the car was sitting when i attempted to crank the engine meant it sometimes started up, and sometimes didn't.. Which bugged the life out of me for a while! So a worthwhile check if you are having similar issues. Just wiggle the braided cable to see if its still well connected - mine just disintegrated at the connection points. I dare say it could be easily repaired by replacing the braided cable and tidying up the connections whilst the starter motor is off... But i opted for a refurbished Bosch starter motor from Euro Car Parts and swapped it over.. Right as rain since (about 6 months later).. Can't seem to upload a pic via the basic uploader, so hopefully via an attachment has worked.. [ATTACH=CONFIG]94564[/ATTACH]
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