_Matt_

Hi Anna, Is there any chance the vdo centre console gauges could be re-produced for RHD cars? I'd love a set and I've seen quite a few others are hunting them down too. How many people would have to be interested to get it done? Since 2nd hand sets are going for between ~£300 each I'd be happy to pay that sort of money for a re-pro.

Does look nice indeed and very well maintained. Tidy on those wheels too. Hope he gets close to his price. I probably should have tried a 16v out.

Found a picture of it here, but I think it's from before you sold it - it was having some major restoration work at a bodyshop so would seem a shame if it was broken. If SORN and low mileage it could be being stored in some collectors lot. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=220032.0

Spen - id like to get to some shows this year but got a couple of young kids who aren’t quite old enough to want to attend for a day (without driving me mad) and free weekends are few and far between these days. I reckon next year my eldest will be old enough (6/7). RE TT Seats I’ve done some digging - don’t think the rears will go in. I do really like the look of Recaro’s. I also think my idea of trimming the TT Seats in cloth is silly and it would be easier to retrim the rears to match in leather. I’m not horrified with my cloth interior - I just need to do something with my seat and thought an upgrade to Recaro’s would be nice.

Also spen - funny how our CCGB member numbers are sequential!

That’s intereting about the TT Seats. As I don’t have leather door cards I’m wanting to keep it oem style cloth or perhaps leather outer and cloth centres. My existing drivers seat is no longer comfy. Padding has worn and can feel metal supports on longer journeys. Comfort is quite high on the list. I do like the look of Recaro’s though, especially in modern classics.

Since genuine Recaro’s are hard to come by... what about fitting some other Recaro’s of a very similar design i.e Rover, Ford instead? You can get them for sub £300. My father in law is a welder: can I just chop the base off of my cloth seats and weld them to the Recaro’s? I’d also want to get them retrimmed in the oem (or close) cloth too as my cloth door cards are in great condition. Any recommendations on someone who could do this would be great too.

I definitely agree there Keyo. Merc and Porsche both are committed to keeping their cars on the road. I think it’s great for the brands as it shows pride in the product and adds to the reputation for building cars that will last. Bodywork is sadly really expensive. I had a few touch ups, rust repairs, new boot and wheel refurb and it set me back 2k. One of the arches they repaired it rusting again too. I haven’t got involved in bodywork before but think I could have got it done for less now I’ve read some other posts on Facebook, maybe.

Yeah nothing to worry about, my drive is on a slight slope and i park diagonally across it - more water pours out one side vs the other. Originally I’d thought something was wrong with the water plus the rust (now fixed I’ll add!) but it’s allgood and doing as designed

What has psychological resilience got to do with steering input? :scratch:

Agree, I’ve not experienced electric steering yet. My family car is an Exeo (A4 in disguise) with fluid steering. It is lighter than the Corrado though. I think I saw the reference in a magazine review. Probably cut and pasted from somewhere else! Probably should take it with a pinch of salt; for example I used to own a mk4 golf, standard spec 1.9 tdi, to read the reviews you’d think it was a tank to drive but I found it perfectly fine.

Cheers Philly, school boy error there - I didn’t even think to look at the manual. Now realise what the yellow wire with the black box is for. I think I’ll go for it. Assume I can connect up the aerial’s 12v live to the yellow wire (ignition live?). The aerial instructions ask for a 3amp inline fuse... Cheers Matt

Added myself. Not many around my way. Wonder how many are now past owners.

Ahh sounds normal then! I wondered if there was something wrong with the rack but it’s smooth etc. I’ll probbaly flush the fluid and replace the fluid this year for good measure.

Hey all, I see reviews of the Corrado and see people talking about how light the steering is. Mine isn't light at all, it's definitely assisted somewhat and I car hear the pump on full lock but requires effort to turn compared to modern cars - mostly noticed when turning into side streets. I've eyeballed the fluid, looks clean and doesn't smell burnt or anything. Just wondering what's normal. Car has had an alignment but I feel it needs a general bushing replacement and have noticed one of my drop links is split. Just mentioning as don't know if tired bushes would cause stiffer steering. Cheers, Matt

Hi all, I haven't installed a new headunit for years. Last time I did it (Vauxhall Corsa!) I remember it all being plug and play, perhaps I had to buy an adapter for the plug to the car. I know I want DAB and bluetooth this time round and have the original Sony stereo currently in situ with original wiring. I've narrowed my choice down to this unit (must have LED option for green lighting): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenwood-Electronics-KMM-BT504DAB-Bluetooth-receiver-Black/dp/B078SLHVJH Since I have my headlining out for retrimming (that job is now done) I bought and installed a new bee-sting DAB aerial. The aerial has FM, DAB and 12v power leads to install. Couple of questions before I pull the trigger and buy the head unit - - I can't see a DAB aerial port on the back of the unit in the pictures - does it instead locate on the connection harness? - Do I need to buy any adapters for the wiring? - I need a perm live (ideally switching on and off with the unit) to power the aerial, just so I am double sure which colour is it? I will test with multimeter. Please let me know if there is a better way to power the aerial! Cheers, Matt

Plus it’s easier to convert a 4cyl car to a 20vt vs a vr6. I’d probably pop another VR (12 or 24v) in mine if the worst happened. I do have a hankering for a 16v on throttle bodies though. Would probably source it in a golf or Seat Ibiza to have something diff to the corrado though. I don’t care for out right speed these days - all engines in the corrado have enough for fun on our roads.

Yeah seen a few YouTube vids - guys in wales can covert anything. If I recall it was about half the price for a fiat 500 conversion. I’d really miss the noise of a petrol engine though.

Only a matter of time before we see our classics going electric ⚡️

20vt is a good shout. Modern engine in a well sorted analogue car.

To be honest, if I won the lottery, I’d take a g60 and 16v and love them all. I went for the vr purely because I’ve been subject to 4 cylinder cars for years and I like the noise. Equally I like the supercharger whine and 16v howl. I don’t think I’d have regretted any purchase but knew I wanted more cylinders, irrational or not. At the age the cars are they’ll need bodywork and a 16v might be the right choice to keep it going. A string of bodywork bills followed by chains or a supercharger might be enough to push you over the edge.

VR6 for me, or a G60 but felt 4 cylinder forced induction wasn't that special these days and big +6 cylinders are a dying breed.

Oh and any advice on anything else it might make sense to change/inspect at the same time would be great too. The car has just had new shocks, springs and top mounts. Cheers

Ouch! Yes i did the same and popped the box on my "spares" shelf!

Hi all, Noticed a bit of play on the 12/6 o'clock test + a torn boot on the the ball joint. One of my control arm bushes looks a bit cracked too so I've seen some Febi Bilstein control arm + ball joint assemblies for circa £67 ea and plan to replace myself. Does that sort of price sound alright? Gaining confidence working on the car but haven't done this job before. I have tools, including an impact wrench & torque wrench. On reading I've seen it's advisable to jack both sides up when replacing a ball joint - is this necessary if replacing control arm and ball joint as a ready assembled unit? Reason I ask is because my drive way is slightly sloped and it's easier to jack one side at a time. As far other stuff - is it just a couple of bolts on the body/sub frame and off it will drop? Any advice on torque settings? Cheers, Matt