_Matt_

Looks good but can see how these sorts of projects can get demotivating as they progress. I'd love to learn bodywork and spraying. I've been office based for my working life but happiest working with my hands sigh. With kids, mortgage it's not really possible to switch things up.

I think if it's going to be a mostly stock road car I would go for stock bushings. My reasons would be to keep as many vibrations and harshness out of the cabin.

It could be, I got a warranty with mine but he supplied then alarm system as welL... He knows his stuff tho, I’ve not had a single false alarm and he completely removed the original alarm and loom.

How come VW went to the effort to stick a different fuelling system in the Corrado? Was it to do with the schrick inlet (read they might have been built stock with them at one point).

I had a Hornet Maxx1 (cat1) fitted by a chap how covers Herts and Beds. I took out the old stuff too, He was recommended across other forums, he might travel to Middlesex if you were looking for someone to fit. He's done all sorts from re-wiring a burst out wiring harness on a Mustang to installing alarms in fleets of motor homes. https://www.yell.com/biz/dk-car-audio-and-security-henlow-7138083/

I have an "every car covered" cover for the Corrado. To honest I don't use it much and instead make sure the car is clean and topped up with wax (aqua wax in the winter). I found I didn't use the car as much with the cover on and you have to clean and dry the car before putting the cover on. I now use it when I know it's going to be parked up for a week or so.

Thanks Maff for the info - it’s cleared it up a treat for me! Enjoy the spin :)

Good point - must stop chasing perfection!

Probably makes sense to have a back up plan (replacement engine - I haven’t asked the q but a 24v would slot in relatively pain free) or not have any work done. Chains are silent. They could have been done for all I know. Ahhh I have an irrational love for the car and can see it being kept for years/forever so try and do things with the future in mind. But being told the bores are caked with no return would feck a perfectly useable classic. I have bought some forte seal conditioner in the meantime. The only reason I’d go as far to have all this work done is because it makes sense whilst it is apart. But if it ain’t broke why fix? In reality it’s never going to be a high value corrado with the miles. But then I’ve always said I’ll maintain things regardless of value. It’s not for sale so has no liquid value. Ramblings but appreciate the forums comments to spark my thoughts 😂 Matt

Maff - great you got your car sorted. I was having some warm start issues but installed a one way valve near the pump, renewed the pump relay and installed a new fuel filler cap (just because mine was manky and it was £8quid) and it's fixed for now. Anyone got part numbers or links for these pump though? I thought VR pumps were uber expensive (£350+ ) and hard to source. What's the difference betweens ones sold in a case and others that look like they are without a case? Thanks, Matt

ahhh I see thanks Mat, could well be an issue down there then, though I hope not. Good info. Almost don't want to get it fixed for fear of opening a whole can of worms.

Yea I do try and tell myself parts are reasonable compared to other marques. The only thing that annoys me about the corrado is obsolete parts and having to pay a fortune for a working 25 year old part. Front wings for example don’t exist but I’d happily pay 300 quid for a new pair (mine are fine fortunately). ABS parts - I had to strip down my abs travel sensor, re solder abs silicon back up. These sorts of things are usually available on other marques for a price. ABS pumps and parts aren’t available but some can be repaired by BBA Remen (I have this fault and 2 working and 1 broken pump here ready for a fix). Headlights and fog lights - tabs break, reflective material goes but again can’t source new ones.

That 964 would have epic and worth a bit today. Those prices are insane. Porsche have been a bit naughty with those engines. BMW had something with cylinder liners but they did the right thing and replaced them. I’ve always been mechanically sympathetic, the corrado is easier with the oil temp gauge but I keep it below 3k until it reaches 94-96 degrees. Else on other cars I wait at least 10 miles (and even then my daily tdi still hasn’t got its coolant up to temp let alone I assume oil)

Yeah I’ve seen the issue on the 996’s plus the IMS bearing. That and the headlights put me off the only 911 I could ever afford!! Shame the air cooled stuff is so expensive. No strange noises on mine so fingers crossed. It is a quiet engine with no tappet noise when cold either. It has had a service every year though so probs help keep it fresh. It was also completely standard so I’m hoping it’s had an easy life (ha!). I’ve installed a B12 kit but otherwise it’s staying standard.

I'll let Stealth inspect it for bore wear, I'm sure they'll advise what's best. The chains, clutch and head refurb is a package they do. I believe they send the head off to be refurbed - skim, inspect for cracks, steam, guides, seals. From reading around they've done quite a lot of them! One Q - if I was burning oil due to bores - wouldn't I see blue smoke from the exhaust regularly?I can't say it doesn't but I've never seen blue smoke and I've had the wife follow to inspect on a few occasions with full acceleration 2nd gear to redline test too. Nothing comes out. Bottom end rebuild would be +2.5k if it is bust though.

I've had a indicative quote from Stealth for clutch, chains, head refurb and gasket for 1650 inc VAT. It's going to take a few months to pull that cash together but at least I'll know I'll have a solid engine for a good few years. I thought about it last night and even if I could save a couple of hundred with my mobile vag mechanic I think I'd rather it went to Stealth as they know what they're doing and have a great rep. ... when my mechanic did the cambelt on my Seat Exeo his locking tool snapped and it took him 3 days to strip it down and get it sorted. Bad luck on him and he kept to his quote, he does know what he's doing but I'd rather not go through that with Corrado + if it turns out other bits are needed or even little thing like bolts at least Stealth will have the knowledge and materials within in easy reach.

I suppose it could be burning oil too, it's just I've never seen the puffs of blue and have had my wife follow while I drive. If sporadic I would miss it though. I might have got the 1/2 litre thing wrong but will keep a proper log now.

Cheers Keyo. I was hoping to have a cheaper year this year having spent £3,750 on it last year!

Cheers guys. The crank seal probably should be changed when having chains done, along with the clutch. The crank seal sits behind the flywheel so would be a little bit more effort but well worth doing... I've spent a couple of hours looking around and stripping bits off. Some pictures and laughable text annotations... I think I have a couple of leaks; 1) a light leak around the bottom right of the rocker cover (but this could just be overflow from poor oil filling). See pics, moist oil also spreads slight underneath inlet manifold behind the electrical connector). 2) I believe the Crank Seal is probably leaking too. Oil above gearbox, behind thermostat (could that be head gasket too?) and quite a bit of oil around sump and gear box join. Oil has spread over as far as the power steering pump Pics Sump/Gearbox [ATTACH=CONFIG]95756[/ATTACH] PS Pump [ATTACH=CONFIG]95759[/ATTACH] Upper timing chain cover/behind coil pack (3 pics at diff angles..) [ATTACH=CONFIG]95762[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]95765[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]95768[/ATTACH] Back of engine in-line with exhaust manifold [ATTACH=CONFIG]95771[/ATTACH] Ahhh, what next. Well I'll take Hasan's advice and clean it up with degreaser and put some Forte stop leaks in for now. I do not feel confident enough to take all this apart on my drive (wish I had a garage!). I'll get my VAG mechanic to take a look but if doing crank then it's quite a list of jobs that will follow whilst it gets stripped down - clutch and chains for sure, concerned it could be head gasket too. There is dark colour that has appeared at bottom of the (new) header tank too: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95774[/ATTACH] It would probably be easier and cheaper to pop 1.8t in there if it turns into a couple of grands worth of work.

Cheers Keyo. Just done the pressure switches (as they were leaking too!). The oil cooler looked fine a couple of months ago... but you never know. It’s had a new sump but the oil is leaking higher up. Fun times. May as well have a full top end refurb, head gasket plus some 268 cams if doing the chains.

Hi all, I've had a leak for a while that has now got quite a bit worse - 1/2 litre of oil leaked over the last 200 miles. The oil is all on the timing chain side of the engine and covers from about half way down the timing chain casing to the sump and bell housing, plus splatters over the draft-shaft. Recently I fixed a leaking oil pressure sensor but this is all new oil now as I wiped that lot off at the time. I took a picture of the leak from the rear - view is from top down and looks moist with oil about halfway down, in line with the exhaust manifold level. Oil is also escaping from the front, behind the thermostat but I wasn't able to get a clear picture. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95753[/ATTACH] When I changed the coil pack earlier this year I noticed oil on the tips of the threads too. The rocker cover gasket/top of the engine appear largely dry. This to me is pointing to some sort of failed seal on the timing chain cover. What do you guys think? I have no history of the chains being replaced and have been saving the pennies for this job (but unfortunately I can't do it right now). I'm assuming around £1k for this job. I have a mobile VAG mechanic but unsure whether to give this job over to him as he hasn't seen many VR6 engines and hasn't done a chain on one these before....Stealth is an hour away so is an option. The car has done 151k with FSH but has had little use in the last 7 years with only around 10k being covered in that time. I've been trying to use the car more but I guess things have started to perish over the last few years. I've also spotted a coolant leak under the rad too. Joys.

I can't directly help but where did you source seat foam? I can feel springs/metal after sitting in my drivers seat for an hour..

Oh yes most probably well past their best then. I've read the same reports re: eibach pro line / 20-25mm kits and standard shocks. When I was researching the same combo works well across other forums for other makes so it will be fine. I had this exact same headache around a year ago so feel your frustration on something that should be straight forward. Fortunately Larkspeed will sort it all out either way.

I bought my kit from Larkspeed too, they were very good at swapping over even though I bought the kit 6 months before fitting. Re: the ride though - I wouldn't have thought there would be much difference between H&R and Eibach springs. Have you got adjustable Koni's? Maybe they've been wound up to their hardest setting. Else Billy B4s should make the ride softer, being a softer shock. One point to note is that B4s aren't designed for shorter springs, that said there is probably enough tolerance in it to cater for mild lowering springs and depending where you read it's often said 20/25mm spring kits were designed to for stock shocks.

Here’s the link to the thread with pictures. Opens on the page with the correct springs. Go back a page to see the before.. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80155-Corrado-Part-Duex-24V-Aqua-Blue-She-s-gone/page66