_Matt_

Installed the JP MAF today (cheers Keyo for link) and it continues to idle perfectly. It did after cleaning the Bosch one to be honest but had already purchased a replacement. Also notice no surging while cruising (this was very subtle) and it's less snappy on off throttle. Win! On to the next job.

Got mine too, looks great. Yet to get a pic of it fitted. Good spot and hopefully keep the area dryer.

Good work Tam. Unfortunately I don’t know if any panels. Maybe stick it on the Facebook site for additional traffic too? Seems silly a panel such as the wing, that’s in prime position to get damaged or rusted is not available and could end up writing off or aesthetically destroying an otherwise clean car.

CHeers Jim. Oddly the car seems to be behaving much better most of the time since the work (mostly just cleaning). I did have a go at popping all the electrics on and idle seems fine. I think i am left the characteristic very very very slight lumpy idle. I’ve got some injector cleaner to run through but if it remains as is I’ll be happy.

Epic I'll send you a msg - my 3 key situation may end soon!

Thanks for links Keyo :) I believe I do have a very minor exhaust leak up front, notice it once the engine is warmed up. Planning a stainless system for it at some point so quietly ignoring the problem at the mo! I've tried the injector cleaner but I suppose a more concentrated mixture wouldn't hurt.

Thread revival... have you guys got any left? I need to a door lock and boot lock? thanks!

Okay managed to spend some time working through the list. 1. MAF cleaned and tested with multi-meter - think it is okay - I'm seeing a reading fluctuating between 0.85v to 0.9v on idle. There is a perm 12v source to the MAF as well. 2. Took of TPS and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on it. 3. Carried out ECU reset procedure and read the basic settings, after driving it is a little better on idle. 4. Took all my vacuum lines off, inc. carbon canister and inspected carefully for cracks. No problems there. 5. Plugged in my OBD11 device and monitored the live readouts (there are no engine fault codes): - I found my idle speed sits mostly at 680 rpm but drops to 640 and up to 720 rpm every couple of seconds. - Coolant temp is good - steady 87 degrees - Lambda value fluctuates around 1.0 which I think it normal. Things I am not sure about: - Injector timing is 3.3 to 3.7ms. I've seen references it should be around 1.5ms reading around forums? - The EGR temp jumps between 182 degrees to 217 degrees centigrade every 1 second (I didn't think I had an EGR valve and maybe this is coming from the O2 sensor?) - The timing should be +-1 degree of 6.0. Mine jumps 4.5 to 6.8 So I think maybe something is wrong, although it did get better following the ECU reset procedure. Just thinking out aloud - if the temps are coming from the o2 sensor perhaps it is over fuelling due to a bad injector, which probably points to why it's backing off the timing to 4.5 degrees every second too. - Motor mounts are worn and letting too much vibration through. If the numbers above look normally this could be a possibility. Any other ideas :D Thanks, Matt

Thanks for the link! Yes I normally prefer known brand parts but where I’m replacing like this on whim I’m prepared to take a punt. The Bosch MAF’s are too much for me @ ~£200 so the one in the link is more a normal price for MAF imo.

No error codes currently, but then OBD1 isn’t that great for error reporting. Before I delve into taking out the injectors (had a quote @ £85 from Mr Injector) I’m going to try: 1. Clean the MAF and TPS sensors (I didn’t do this when I cleaned the TB and ISV) with electrical contact cleaner. 2. Vacuum leak check again, especially under the airbox 3. Multimeter 5v testing of the sensor plugs 4. the ECU reset 5. See if I can run a TB recalibration via VCDS although believe what I have read is for OBDII cars. 6. Fuel pressure test at the rail 7. Injectors 8. Chalk it up to experience and pay a professional…. But I am enjoying the troubleshooting at the moment. The issue does smooth itself out and gets worse occasionally. Makes me think it’s a sensor dying. Equally vacuum leak is high on the cards as the problem is only at warmed up idle (and not during the higher cold start idle).

Thanks for the reply :) I haven’t performanced the ecu reset actually. I’ll try this. I normally just let it adapt itself over time, but the battery has been disconnected during the work. The idle isn’t terrible like you see in some of the videos online. You can’t really hear it in the exhaust note but do hear a subtle clatter in the engine bay as it corrects itself and the vibration in the cabin is similar to the one you get when you don’t give it enough gas when releasing the clutch. I’ll pay some more attention to the vacuum lines. Is there a DIY technique to follow to fine these leaks? I’ve tried spraying carb cleaner to no avail. Must admit I haven’t given much attention to the lines running to the carbon canister though. Fuel injectors are a good call. I was suffering from some warm starting issues which could be linked to leaky injectors as well, however since installing a one way valve from the pump outlet it’s been resolved. I don’t think it would hurt investing in a fuel pressure gauge as well.

Hi, Ugghhh, I've read threads and threads on VR6 idle issues and it feels like I've been hunting down this annoying issue ever since i've had the car. Can't see the tacho move on idle so relatively minor but you feel a vibration pulse through the cabin and when you've got your head in the engine bay you can hear and feel the engine lug and catch itself. It never stalls but it's giving me the sensation it wants to. I've stripped the throttle body, isv and re secured all vaccum hoses. No fault codes displayed via scanning. I cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner and lubed with gt40. On reassembly nothing has changed with the idle issue. When I disconnect the ISV the idle rises slightly and idle is smooth. However that might just be becuase it's not at 640 rpms anymore (it idles between 640-680 on vcds). When being drvien the engine is smooth. How does the ISV work? is it playing a role once the engine is warmed up? Maybe mine is goosed. It is the orignal unit but wasn't particularly dirty. All other parts on the throttle body are original and have the yellow paint markers from factory so I'm fairly confident the idle damper hasn't been messed about with. There are lots of other new parts whilst hunting down this issue and fixing others - coil pack, leads, FPR, fuel pump relay, new PCV, new cam and crank sesnors, new thermostat and sensors. Haven't touched the fuel pump, knock sensors or MAF. Can't think of much else that would affect it. The car drives fine hence why i've not done the pump or MAF... Any ideas... :D Thanks Matt

Good news! Sounds like it is worth doing the spraying yourself as it's usually a textured finish on the sills anyway :) Are we talking thousands for welding? Just interested if I ever have to do it myself. My Jacking points had some surface rust but it's been treated and sealed for now :|

Whilst doing some idle googling I came across this - maybe the wheels signify a special edition - The Jet 2 - they are pictured in the european publication below. Micky - how does the rest of your cars' spec compare? http://techniqueg60.com/index.php/forum-techniqueg60/le-corrado-g60-a-la-loupe/38-6-les-series-limitees-du-corrado-g60

I’ve seen the one Facebook - dark red - completely mint underneath - you could eat your dinner off it (if you don’t mind it falling in your face) but it’s being broken. I’d certainly take mine off the road on a SORN to do major work but don’t think I’d have the heart to break it up. I know of a storm that’s been laid up on axle stands on someone’s drive way for the last 8 years. Equally terrible as the minter being broken on Facebook.

I probably wouldn’t bother with a SORN either but if I had quite a collection of cars and knew some wouldn’t be used for winter I would then. I can see me going that way in the future. I do use mine in the winter on nice days, always clean it afterwards, inc spray underneath. It’s also protected with a dinitrol treatment so I don’t feel too guilty. I could easily not use it though as it’s invariably always in bits and hence why I can see it being off the road in the winter - yesterday I did the oil (in the snow), took off the TB and ISV for a clean and took out the steering wheel and gearknob for a refurb in the evenings. I think I have a small leak on the rad too. Will probably remove the front end and tidy up the slam panel if the rad needs repacing so it will be in bits again! Always something to keep on top of 😂

Yeah I usually do the middle picture. My jack is too short to reach the last picture, i need to buy a proper jack and keep my existing as a spare now I'm getting into working on the car. Although the body parts are the factory jacking points I feel uneasy doing it now the cars old.

Keyo - sounds like my journey too. Starting to need deep pockets to keep it going, I tell myself it's just to get it through this 25 year old refresh and then it should pain free motoring (ha). The gutting thing about resprays, if they go wrong, is that they are expensive and if not done right they start to blister/fail again sooner than expected but usually a lot longer than any warranty period would cover. That would be enough to push me over the edge too if I had paid out. I need to find somewhere to have mine resprayed and have this at the back of my mind. Not a job for a few years though.

Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]

Hi, I found this great thread but the pictures have gone http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?16534-Trolley-jack-points I want to be sure I’m jacking and supporting in the right place. So far I have only needed to jack up front. I jack up at the rear of the subframe (or is it wishbone) mounting point to the chassis. I then place my axle stand with a hockey putt on the sill jack point. I keep the jack in situ sharing the strain. Is this okay? I haven’t done the rear but any tips would be appreciated. Cheers, Matt

If the claim goes through insurance they will get categorized. You do get the option to buy it back for a small fee but it will still have it's marker. I think a lot of the Corrado's will have had paint but not necessarily due to accident damage. More likely rust repair or a refresh. Mine has had paint but it's straight structurally (as far as can be told and has been professionally inspected twice). I just wish one of the prior owners hadn't opted for a cheap blow over (or I'd paid more attention to it on buying) as I'm going to have to save for a proper job. I guess it was a sign of the times as the car wasn't worth much a few years ago.

Mine was HPI clear when I bought it last year for finance (expected) and CAT markings. Only warning it had was about a prior previous plate being registered to the Corrado now on a car with finance attached to it (volvo v60). Interesting to see as those with personal plates will find their plate comes up against old cars it was registered to. Cat D (or the new Cat N as they are now called) is meaningless to me on a 10 year+ car so I would have bought one if it was marked as such anyway. My Corrado has had a blow over and minor rust repairs which are more extensive repairs than an insurance company would categorize it for. I will be having it properly sprayed in the future too as I hate the masking between window seals and new paint - looks gash up close!

That’s another option I hadn’t thought about. Sounds expensive (2-3k?) with the doorcards as well.

I don't think the rears will go in but the front TT's will with I believe some work to the base. Then re-trim the original rears to suit. I've figuring out a a few options myself for the interior. Black leather (rare to see for sale these days so would have to buy a car with it in and swap), repair my late cloth, source cloth Recaro's and retrim rear the rear to suit or buy some similar recaro's and have the Corrado base welded on, then retrim the interior to suit. Porsche tombstones also fit with some work to the base too.

A great snowy morning whilst walking my daughter to school and a Corrado spot - Green N reg Corrado VR6 (could be a Storm) driving northbound through Potters Bar High Street/A1000 at around 08:35. Had a bit of snow on it so I guess it's daily driven and living outside (like mine). I think I even pointed to show my daughter but she'd already clocked it and said "look Daddy a Corrado"