mk2_20vt

thats the point ;) if we all did the same then the whole modification scene would be pretty boring.

But thats been done!. If you run 4wd you also need some way of controlling the haldex diff. And you wouldn't be able to go sideways around roundabouts ;)

Think you have missed the point. Its not meant to be a show winner. Jon drives the car every day and has covered many miles with no problems at all. Running the haldex FT is not a problem as he has proved. Isnt the main point that he enjoys driving it and its not stuck in a garage for months like many peoples "projects" are?.

yup. thats mine

Picked up this copy today. Lovely car Jay. My rado is also featured in the shoot out on page 40.

White rado flashed and waved at me off College roundabout in Salisbury.

Certainly is possible. Jon Saunders from Quantum http://www.qpeng.com has converted his Jetta to RWD. It has a BAM 20vt from a TT running a haldex rear diff. The haldex pump is set up to run continously and the front drive shafts have been removed. Its not going to win any concours but certainly puts a smile on your face.

Why not just order one direct from GSF on their website http://www.gsfcarparts.com. I'm sure they still do them. Part number is 18973 for the Sachs one and 18973L for the LUK. Sachs one is apparently better than the LUK. I have one in my 20VT and its fine with 280BHP, no juddering at all. Remember if you haven't changed the dual mass flywheel on the engine you will need to do so to fit the clutch. You will need a spline tool to remove the cover plate.

Sounds awesome. Have they actually done one in a Corrado though or are they waiting for someone to stump up the cash?. I see they have already done a Passat, it was in PVW a few months ago.

So do I!. Surely the 20VT provides much more BHP per ££?. A TT engine will re-map straight up to 280 BHP.

Under 1k is good for a 20v engine now, they tend to go for lots now that the breakers know that they are in demand. Flog the gearbox as it wont be much use if you want to run FWD only. You can use your existing 16v box with an up-rated clutch. Costs depends on how much you want to do yourself. Plenty of companies charging 4k+ for a drive in-drive out conversion. Budget on 2k on top of the engine costs for parts if you want to do the labour yourself.

In theory both will but the one you are thinking about will go in easier. How much you looking at for the engine?, does it come complete with wiring harness ecu etc?

That is the 1.8T 20v engine so my previous comments apply. The new TT has a 3.2l V6. Confusingly Audi put an engine cover on saying "5V" and VW also used to make a "V5" engine with 5 cylinders. Both completely different engines.

I'm guessing you are talking about the 5v per cylinder engine in the older TT's. The newer Audi's use a V6. The 20v engine will drop straight into a Corrado on the original mounts easy enough. You then have the wiring, intercooler and other things to sort out.

Yup. PVW article should be out in the mag after next. The wheels on Simon's VR6 look much better in the flesh. Think he said they were from an Audi A8.

That's my Corrado behind it ;)

If you have a new style V5 doc, just take it down to the post office with the MOT certificate and insurance document.

MK4 O2J box which is apparently a bit stronger than the 02A is a direct swap for the 02A in a G60. The earlier ones use the same shift tower and cable shifters, on the later ones you have to change the cable changer but it has a much shorter throw than the O2A one anyway. On the later O2J you also need to swap the output flanges so they bolt up to the original driveshafts. The only 6Spd box you can fit is from a Seat as VW dont do a 6Spd FWD car and the 4WD box is harder to fit due to different mounts and massive transfer box. I'm running over 300LB/FT though my O2J and its fine, although the original clutch has just gone so am fitting a VR6 one. If you are planning on lots of drag racing then you will defiantly want an LSD.

I think they changed over around '95ish. Anybody with VR6 have banjo fittings on theirs as well?

I'm also using MK3 calipers with G60 280mm disks. I have had to buy new hydraulic hoses as the calipers have a banjo fitting on instead of the screw in type fitting.

Powerflow full stainless system on mine. 3" downpipe reducing to 2.5" with 1 middle box and 1 rear.

Its an Audi only day :(

OT but a friend of mine recently sold his car to Haynes for them to make a manual. It was an Audi A3. Usually they just buy them from local dealers who agree to buy it back from Haynes when they have finished striping it apart but they couldn't find this specific model. I picked him up from the workshop when he dropped it off there and they gave us a tour around. They completely strip down every car, there are only about 4 chaps who do the actual mechanical work and another team of a dozen of so who do all the technical drawings etc. One of the chaps in the workshop had done all the cars for the last 20 years or so!. They also have the biggest library of car magazines and technical manuals i've ever seen.

Unless you're talking about a different part that i think your are, its not a nut, its a union on the copper brake hose. You will have to replace the complete hard line back to the ABS unit or master cylinder. Most motor factors will be able to make you one up.

I had the same problem on my 20VT. I just welded a small bead using some stainless wire around my charge pipes and have never had it happen again.