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Funkster

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Everything posted by Funkster

  1. Indeed, and it's not extremely over-hot as engines go so I'm not *too* worried about it. However, it did at one point cool perfectly and stick right on 80 even when thraping down the motorway. It's the change that concerns me - seems like something is on its way out. My OBD lead has just landed on my desk so I shall have a play with that later on. Thanks for the support, -- Olly
  2. Hokay. I got the new black/blue temperature sender and it works just fine. It also seems to have sorted out the run-on fans, which came on when I shut it down at 100 and seemed to trip out at about 93ish. When sitting stationary the stage 1 fans trip in and out and hold at a steady 100 which I gather is normal. Aside from that, it's still hotter than I would like despite changing the thermostat again just in case. It doesn't seem to matter what load I put on the engine or how fast I go, it fluctuates a bit but generally hangs around 90. Very strange. I'm going to monitor it over the next few days and see if a rise in ambient temperature causes a rise in gauge temperature (and thus deduce if the pump has run out of flow). I've also got an OBD lead on the way so I can see what temp the ECU thinks it's at and if there's any other faults on the engine that I should know about. Cheers for now, -- Olly
  3. 'lo, Your car is behaving almost exactly like mine, but I haven't seen you post anything about the top hose. There's a restrictor where the bleed hose (that goes to the top of the header tank) is teed onto the main bit of the top hose. On mine this had broken up, and at one point became completely blocked - this caused coolant to be blown out of the header tank and for it to overheat loads even when driving at 50mph in freezing ambients. When I cleared out this blockage it got better, but now I have a relatively stable 90° on the gauge whereas a couple of months ago it used to be stable at 80 all the time no matter what (apart from in traffic, of course). Might be worth blowing the little hose through with an air line and putting it back together... it's free after all! I removed the restrictor from mine completely in an effort to resolve the 90° temps, although it didn't help. fwiw. -- Olly
  4. Funkster

    Temp Sender

    Eventually found it under 4-cyl KR/9A electrical systems. It's described there, as you say, as gauge/ISV sender and it also mentions that it's a 1-pin device that's black. Hope this is of some assistance. -- Olly
  5. Funkster

    Temp Sender

    btw the descriptions and remarks are the same for both part numbers you mention above, the 049 one is a supersession of the 027 one.
  6. Funkster

    Temp Sender

    Dunno about that. My ETKA recognises the number and calls it "temperature sender" and under remarks it says "+ 16.0 MwSt" There doesn't appear to be any kind of reverse-lookup function in ETKA so I can't see a picture or tell what car it's supposed to fit. hth, -- Olly
  7. Funkster

    Temp Sender

    does sender not equal sensor? it does in my head... -- Olly
  8. Funkster

    ETKA

    Sorry to jump in all, but do any of you know how to apply the downloadable updates to ETKA? I have version 6.31 which claims to have up to update 512, and a bunch of updates with higher numbers. I've done my best with the info I've found on t'internet but haven't got it to work yet. Cheers for any help, -- Olly
  9. If you disconnect the coil pack but leave everything else as is, do you still get the rapid clicking of the fuel relay? If not, maybe there's a power feed issue? Might be worth trying disconnecting the injectors also. Or, not. -- Olly
  10. Indeed, although there is some confusion about whether the VW black/blue replacement is the right part. I have ordered what they told me was for the gauge, so we shall see! Cheers, -- Olly
  11. I do wonder about the yellow sensor, but the oil temp creeps up as well so it does seem that the engine really is getting hotter. I shall order a new yellow sensor anyway just for peace of mind as it is as you say a damn sight easier than removing the pump. I'm hoping it's not the head gasket - compression sounds good across all pots when cranking and it doesn't seem to blow the coolant out, but then again these aren't perfect indicators. If anyone can tell me the right part number for the yellow sensor it'd be greatly appreciated - I've got ETKA on the way but it's not here yet, and I don't trust the dealer to get the right bit over the phone. Many thanks for your assistance, -- Olly
  12. Last time I checked stage 1 worked just fine, and stage 2 didn't work (though it has done previously - not sure what's gone wrong there). When I've had the fans come on previously, it's been stage 1. Curiously when I shut it down just the other day (with the gauge reading over 100) the after-run fan didn't come on. Not sure if this is significant. Thanks, -- Olly
  13. I did wonder about that, but the level seems consistant. I filled the system via the top hose, I think I read somewhere on here that that helped prevent airlocks. I'd be thrilled if that was what it was though... any hints for a better way to fill it? Thanks, -- Olly
  14. Stage 1 fan says ~92, but with the engine idling on the drive the other day it went to about 105 and the fans still hadn't come on. I fitted a new thermoswitch a couple of months ago. If it had always been like this then I would be a bit less concerned, but it's the fact that it's changed that makes me worry. Oh, it's done 154000 miles by the way... Muchos gracias, -- Olly
  15. Well, the 'stat temp is 80 and the car ran well for a while bang on 80 on the gauge. Then all of a sudden it started creeping up. The bleed hose restrictor blocked itself and caused it to get really bad, so I cleared that and flushed/changed the coolant. It's been running constantly over 80 ever since. If I hoof it on the motorway, it goes over 90 which certainly isn't right. Also the fans don't come on until way too late due to low temperature in the bottom rad tank. I know they tend to get hot, but when driving at a reasonable speed any engine should hold solid at the 'stat temp and I don't want to warp anything. I'd also like to be able to hoon it round a track without it melting! Ta, -- Olly
  16. 'lo all, When driving normally in clean cool air my VR creeps up over the 'stat temp, usually settling at about 90. This clearly isn't right and it didn't do this a while ago. Putting the heater on full helps to cool it. I have: - checked the top and bottom hoses (by poking around in wire and by squeezing to feel for any loose or broken bits) - removed the (broken) restrictor in the top hose in case it wasn't letting the levels equalise - poured water through the (nearly new) radiator to check it flowed freely - checked that the 'stat is opening in a pan of water - replaced the header tank cap - flushed the system with wynn's cooling system flush ... and probably some other stuff I've forgotten about. The 'stat housing bits and the crack pipe were replaced a few months ago due to them all being cracked. The heater is very efficient, and having removed the restriction from the header tank bleed pipe there is a steady flow of water from the top hose into the header tank, which to me would suggest that the pump is working, but is it working well enough? Not sure how to tell really. Any clues or other suggestions before I start taking all the necessary bits off to get to the water pump? Many thanks, -- A frustrated Olly who's missing his Corrado (been off the road for 5 weeks now...)
  17. 'lo all, I've had a trawl through the archives but couldn't find anything about this. My fuel flap locking pin is proper stuck in the locked position - I can still put fuel in though 'cos the flap is outside the pin, and it still sits fairly flat on the body as the pin thing seems to have been bent inwards a bit. The actuator works just fine when detached from the pin, but obviously can't move it when attached. How do I remove the whole pin/housing assembly? I'm guessing that soaking the whole thing in plusgas might release it, but that's a bit tricky with it on the car ) Thanks for any hints, -- Olly
  18. Have you changed the header tank cap? You shouldn't be blowing stuff apart if this is relieving pressure correctly. Your cooling issues sound a little like mine, although I appear to have the full complement of horses and I only get to 90 or so when driving - traffic is what causes temps of 100. I'll be checking my thermostat at the weekend, and will report back. -- Olly
  19. The light should continue flashing, even with the engine off, when the header tank is empty shouldn't it? I tried this the other day to check that the sensor worked, and the LED went off after a few flashes as normal. Unplugging the sensor made no difference. Thanks, -- Olly
  20. Mornin' all, I've done some stuff and some investigation, and I'm still a bit puzzled. I drained the system and checked the header tank & pipes, and found that the small hose from the top rad hose to the header tank was blocked, or as near as dammit. I blew it out with the compressor, and although it remained a bit restricted (is this in purpose?) it does at least flow a bit now. I flushed the system with some ungent, cleaned it out with water, and refilled with 40/60 G12+/water through the top hose, letting the level stabilise and topping it up before putting a new cap on the header tank. Hoping for the best, I took it for a drive but yet again it started creeping up past the 'stat temp. This time there was no overflowing or change in the header tank level, so that was probably the blocked hose causing that. If I leave it to sit, the fans come on when the gauge on the dash is showing 100, and the after-run fans seem to do the same. So far I have these ideas: 1) it's the stat not opening all the way, causing the temp to creep up and the temp in the rad to be lower than the temp in the engine (hence the fans coming on at 100 not 92). 2) the gauge is inaccurate, but not all the time - it stops warming up at the 'stat temp and stays there for a bit - could engine bay temp cause the 'gauge reading to rise? 3) Something's still blocked 4) The water pump's knackered. With the header tank cap off, the coolant is clearly flying around the system when I blip the throttle as the level in the tank bobs around. Other empirical evidence... it doesn't matter if you drive it at 60 or 100, the temp creeps up just the same but doesn't get higher the faster you go. After sitting in traffic and it goes to 100, it's *very* reluctant to come back down again, and generally sticks at 90 for a while on its way down. It never reaches 80 again - 85 is the best that it'll do. Any hints would be great - next weekend I'll take the 'stat out and boil it. If it's not that, I'll be hoiking the engine out to do the water pump! Thanks, -- Olly
  21. Ah, a rally! :D -- Olly
  22. I'll bear that in mind Henny, cheers for the info. However, it hasn't been leaking up to now and when I shut it down the cooling system was definitely pressurised, if the feel of the rad hoses is anything to go by. It was just overflowing due to heat soak I guess. Thanks for the support, I'll have it to bits at the weekend and check everything out. Ta, -- Olly
  23. One lap of the world = ~25 thousand miles... quite fresh then! :oP /smartass -- Olly
  24. Aye, VAG-COM is on my wish list. However, it's in no way right that the temps should creep up when crusing along in cold air. I shall investigate the piping on the expansion tank. Thanks, -- Olly
  25. No thoughts? Anyone? I'm quite enjoying rear wheel drive again, I just wish it made the VR6 noise ) Cheers, -- Olly
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