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Everything posted by Funkster
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Grr, VAG-COM won't see engine ECU (sorted, found bad CPS)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Ooo, yes the immobiliser would've kicked back in by the time the PC booted up, and I'm pretty sure that last time I managed to read fault codes I was still on the factory immobilser - now replaced with a popular aftermarket one. I'll try disarming and see what happens ) Cheers, -- Olly -
Grr, VAG-COM won't see engine ECU (sorted, found bad CPS)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Different computer, and is there a setting for the baud? I didn't see one in the options. Would the car run if the ECU relay was faulty? Cheers, -- Olly -
Grr, VAG-COM won't see engine ECU (sorted, found bad CPS)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Aye, it is a VR6 - I've read fault codes on it before, just not this time ( Cheers, -- Olly -
Hi all, I've got *very* variable performance at the moment (feels like ~30 ponies coming and going from one minute to the next sometimes) so I thought I'd scan for fault codes. I've got a lead that has worked before but I had to scare up a different computer as the previous laptop wasn't mine. So, got the version installed that I think I had before (just demo at the mo), v311.2, and had a go... it'll read fault codes from the ABS ECU, and when I click on Engine something goes clickity click behind the dash, but eventually I just get the "No response from controller" message. Have I missed something really obvious? The engine has been out a couple of times since I last read faults, but the engine ECU has never been disturbed. Thanks in advance for any hints, apologies if I've just been a numpty and done it all wrong! Cheers, -- Olly
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Bit of an update... Fitted new blades and gave the arms a bit of a bend to slightly straighten out the bit where it angles towards the screen, and it's wiping properly again. Also I *think* that looking at the blades when they're parked, it doesn't seem to be trying to squash them flat again - but time will no doubt tell on that one. fwiw the latest part numbers for the right-hand-drive blades are: Lupo right = Corrado left 6X2 955 426 A Lupo left = Corrado right 1J2 955 425 B hth, -- Olly
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Many thanks, will save me a lot of hassle if you've got one ) More than a bit of a pain if they really are unavailable... maybe when I find a new one I'll see about getting the old one rebushed and pass it on. Cheers for the help, -- Olly
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Hi All, I just tried to order the short bar for the RHD wiper linkage, 535 955 325, and was told that it's gone obsolete! Parts chap didn't have any info about a new part number, have they really stopped making these? I need a new one as the bushes are gone in mine and the wipers clonk at the top end of their travel... I'm always afraid that the bar will pop off while I'm driving as it's very easy to remove by hand when they're parked. Any info gratefully received! Cheers, -- Olly
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Hi all, I've had a dig with the search but haven't found any reference to the same problem... although my Lupo GTI wipers were great when they were first fitted, the blades soon got folded over to one side so the sharp wiping edge hardly touches the screen. It tends to only flip back and forth when the screen is really dry, which doesn't happen 'cos the leant-over blade doesn't dry the screen very well ) I think perhaps the springs in the arms are too strong so the blades can't hold themselves in shape... has anyone else experienced this and had to change the spring / bend the arms? My blades have been like this for well over a year now so there's no getting them back, but I don't want to buy new ones just to find the exact same thing happens again. Thanks in advance for any hints, -- Olly
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Sounds familiar - I've just got mine back on the road after a year parked up - mostly garaged though. It wasn't *that* bad this morning so maybe it'll free off! Stoney - the speedo works just fine, it's the tacho that's a bit wonky ) Cheers, -- Olly
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Hi all, My tacho has started sticking... I was quite worried for a moment, as I was speeding up and the engine didn't appear to be changing speed ;o) Anyone else had this happen and found a good fix? I tried giving it a tap but that didn't free it off... I'm assuming it's a mechanical issue with the movement but is there any chance of it being an electrical problem? Cheers in advance, -- Olly
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My alternator recon cost a mere £60 but it was done by Rotating Electrics in Birmingham - not a lot of use from Winchester! But I do think it's the best solution - some of the £150 replacements from motor factors aren't even Bosch parts. Get one from a scrapper, take the bearings out, take to your local bearing supplier and get good quality replacements. Then rebuild your existing one as fast as you can. Anyone know what other cars had identical alternators? 38a range rover perhaps? Cheers, -- Olly
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The injectorcleaning people use a combination of ultrasonic and solvents, and they have a special rig to pulse the injectors so the cleaning power gets all round the pintles, not just to the outside as they would if you just stuck the injectors in a cleaning bath. I did wonder about setting up to do it myself but it turns out it's a fairly involved process ) hth, -- Olly
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VR6 oil gallery plugs... where does this one go? Plus fans..
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Also, what type of loctite should I be using? I tested some 638 on a bolt overnight and it was rubbish - seems like it's past it's use-by date so I need to buy some more. Cheers, -- Olly -
Split Manifold Any Fixes? Running Issues fixed/ cost
Funkster replied to vwdeviant's topic in Engine Bay
I would think that the cheapest fix is dabbing at it with an arc welder (it's a cast iron manifold, right?) until the crack is somewhat patched! Won't last forever but might at least see you through until a more convenient time to fix it properly. I'm surprised it makes it run that badly though, could it just be co-incidence? hth, -- Olly -
Obviously it's more work than just sticking something in the fuel, but these chaps will clean and check your old injectors, and replace the pintle caps / o-rings / filters: http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/ I've used them on a couple of engines now, very quick service and cheaper than anyone else offering this. hth, -- Olly
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Hi all, I'm re-doing my oil gallery plugs, and can't think where the one indicated in the pic goes - the rest are from Stealth (ordered a complete set) but I ended up with two of the intermediate size from last time as I ended up with a spare. Where does it go? I hope it's not behind the timing cover :o/ 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcoreplugs_where.jpg[/attachment:1qvr441w] Also, can anyone tell me if these plastic fan surrounds are available on their own, and if so what's the part number? fanshroud.jpg[/attachment:1qvr441w] Ta! -- Olly
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16 valve VR6 is a bit of a rare beast ;o) -- Olly
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Split Manifold Any Fixes? Running Issues fixed/ cost
Funkster replied to vwdeviant's topic in Engine Bay
Blowing exhaust manifold gasket will often sound a bit like a tappet? Could also be piston slap, if it's quite worn. Tappets usually don't make load-dependant noise. fwiw, -- Olly -
VR to come out, leave gearbox in place? (or vice versa?)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
When removing my longitudinal engines, I've always found it to be easier to remove engine and gearbox together, but that's because the bell housing is buried down the tunnel and it's tricky to get at the bolts, whereas unbolting the propshaft and gearbox mounts is relatively painless. When I removed my VR for rebuild, I knew I was going to strip the gearbox also so I removed and reinstalled as a mated pair... so not sure if it's really quicker/easier to just remove one or the other. -- Olly -
VR to come out, leave gearbox in place? (or vice versa?)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Is no problem - have pit, crane and trolley jacks! And I could always do with bigger arms too ;o) I take it the 'box drops out the underneath without having to remove any coolant pipes etc.? Can you leave the two engine mounts bolted up or does the engine need to tilt to get the gearbox clear of the clutch? This definitely sounds like the easiest plan. Cheers, -- Olly -
VR to come out, leave gearbox in place? (or vice versa?)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Thinking more about it... how hard is it to lose the gearbox but keep the engine and pipework where it is? I just need to be able to get the flywheel off, and have some room to work - the engine can stay in the car for all I care. Peeps do this to change the chains don't they? Ta, -- Olly -
VR to come out, leave gearbox in place? (or vice versa?)
Funkster replied to Funkster's topic in Engine Bay
Aha... what about leaving the gearbox in as well as the front panel? Will it come out? I have no particular desire to undo the drive shafts and shift linkage. At least I know that none of the bumper / front panel bolts will be seized, it's only been a few days since I did them up with copper grease :-/ Cheers, -- Olly -
Hi all, After finally getting my rebuilt powertrain back in and the car ready for MOT after being off the road for a year, I took it out for a quick spin and half a mile down the road it blew out an oil gallery plug. Turns out you're supposed to loctite them in... nice of the service manual to mention that eh? Oh no wait, it just says "install"... Ho hum. So, I have to hoik the engine out again after half a mile. What's the consensus, is it quicker (or for that matter even possible) to leave the gearbox (and as much else as possible) in the car? Or is the entire powertrain coming out again just to replace £5 of steel plugs? Somewhat miffed, -- Olly
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The banks definitely are offset, I promise! Should be by about the same amount too as the big ends on the Rover are, if anything, smaller than the SBC. Look at the front of the inlet manifold - it's got a zigzag in it to cope with the offset, and the front cylinder on the frontmost bank is #1. As it sits in the car this is on the left hand bank (so if the car is LHD, the bank on the side that you sit on). hth, -- Olly
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You're quoting my own water pump guide at me? ) The plastic one is the old one, the metal one is the new one. Shame the quality of the new VW parts has gone for a Burton :-/ -- Olly