Funkster

Sorry chaps, I've been quite under the weather this week and haven't had a chance to work on this. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, -- Olly

Ah! Do you not have the pieces that could be glued back into place? It should be just as strong as new once the metal bits are glued on. ttfn, -- Olly

Saw a C between Alvechurch and Redditch earlier today - I flashed, you flashed... anyone on here? Cheers, -- Olly

I have used halfords' radweld-alike with great effect in my manky old MGB which has a very moth-eaten radiator, but I'm not sure if it would work so well with a leak from coolant passage to crank case. I think it works by contact with air while hot - can anyone confirm? Anyway, it didn't do the engine any harm and on a £100 car I wouldn't hesitate to use a £3 fix to keep it running ) I wouldn't risk it on a highly stressed engine like my turbo or vr6 or SBC though... hth, -- Olly

DGL, not sure what you mean about the pivots? My repair piece goes around the outside of the original pivots, as I think it would be very difficult to remove them and replace them with metal. I don't think they're a weak point as such, just that the bit they're on is likely to break. Cheers, -- Olly

Tidy! I'll drop the file on you on Monday as I left it on my work machine. PM me your email addy if you'd be so kind. Cheers, -- Olly

Arr. Trouble is the laser cutting people will want to do a big batch to justify setting up the rig and buying a sheet of the right thickness (~0.75mm). Would people pay a fiver for two repair pieces? Even if your switch isn't broken, you could upgrade it with these so it doesn't break in the future... -- Olly

This might help if you're inclined to repair rather than replace... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=206675 hth, -- Olly

'lo all, My headlight switch broke and I didn't fancy paying 53 quid for a new one from the dealer. I mended mine, and took some photos along the way... thought I'd put 'em on here in case someone else wants to attempt a repair. Remove switch from dash, disconnect connector, and take the switch into a nice clear area - there's small parts, which you'll lose if you do it on a messy desk (like I nearly did!). Unclip the clips with a small screwdriver, and slide the two bits apart. Watch out for the dash light rheostat when you've got everything to bits - it's only attached by its resistance wire which looks a bit delicate. Take the rocker off by pushing it in towards the connector face (this pops the pivots out of their holes), then sliding it sideways a bit until it can come past the pivot holes. This took me a few goes. Here's what the switch contacts look like. The tabs on the rocker break off, so they can't slide that white bit back and forth: Luckily, there's enough space for us to add reinforcement. This space is on the outside of the tabs - created by this blinge that spaces the pivot away from its corresponding shear web: Make some pieces, and check that they fit: Glue those mofos on, along with the old broken plastic bits - make sure you line everything up where it used to be! Note the use of twigs from the garden to keep the pieces in place while the glue sets - I used areldite rapid. Also, one of the black bobbles on my tabs had been melted - this is why it's shorter than the metal bit, which is the shape of a healthy tab. Don't make the bobbles on your repair pieces any bigger than the original ones or they won't fit into the while sliding bit. Put the rocker back into the front half of the switch body - note how the pegs stick through the gaps: If it doesn't move back and forth all the way, you might need to file a bit off these edges: Put the dash light knob into its middle position so that when you reassemble, the wiper rides up this ramp: Line up the bobbles on the tabs with the holes in the white sliding bit when you're putting it together. And there you have it! Click! Hope this helps someone out, feel free to give feedback and ask for clarification. If enough people are interested, I'll get a price for having a load of repair pieces laser cut as I made a cad drawing while I was making mine - although I filed mine out of sheet. Cheers, -- Olly

BTW, now I have to make a 'super pursuit mode' button for my VR! Cheers, -- Olly

Have you checked the plugs? First point of diagnosis at least has to be whether it's too rich or too lean, or if it's just missing due to HT. Dieing when you touch the throttle sounds like it could be lean, but that's not vr6-specific knowledge speaking. hth, -- Olly

New coil pack on, and 'tis running as sweet as a nut now. Note to self - next time listen to the nice people on the-corrado.net. New coil was 115 + VAT from GSF. Including the HT leads and a few additional tools required for the job, sorting this out has relieved me of £250! Guess the lupo wipers will have to wait. And just to put the cherry on top, my headlamp switch failed when I took it out for a spin. Hope I can repair the damn thing, 'cos I can't afford a new one yet ) Thanks for the support, -- Olly P.S. damn this thing is fast!

B******s! Fitted my nice smart new Blue Igniters this evening, and it's still f*****g missing! Aaaargh! Yes, I know, I should've listened and just bought the bloomin' coil pack. Off to find a GSF on my lunch break tomorrow... -- Skint Olly

Top job Musicman! It's not my profession, I just like fiddling around with photoshop every so often. Most of the time I pretend to be an engineer ) I did a stretched one here: http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19435 Cheers, -- Olly

Works kit includes new head, supercharger, intercooler and ecu iirc. You also get to keep all your original equipment - this is why it's so pricey. I had a drive in an S at the weekend as my dad is thinking about changing cars. Not bad, but performance, comfort and style are as nought when compared with my VR6! And they cost 20k! I think I've talked Dad out of buying one -- Olly

Yep, I have to admit that I shopped it ) Here's the original: I love real short cars like this though... saw a mini once where you sat in the boot, basically, and the dash was right in front of you. Great fun ) Cheers, -- Olly

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Saw a bright red one today, ???? GHP, on a roundabout near Coventry. No idea of engine, had no badges. I was in an MGB so you wouldn't have seen me if you're on here... -- Olly

Ordered them too late to ship today, so will have them on friday. Fingers crossed that this sorts it out! Thanks, -- Olly

Okay, thanks for the clarification. I'll go ahead and order a set of blue igniters as long as the lead time isn't too long. Cheers again, -- Olly

Sorry, I'm being a bit thick here... where do you get a full set of black OE ones if it's not from the dealer? Thanks, -- Olly

Where does one get red vw ones, and how much are they? Just had a quick look at the C&R site, and I think 77 quid is about as high as I'm prepared to go for HT leads. I'll give 'em a call tomorrow and see how soon they can get 'em to me. Presumably the 61 quid ones from the VW dealer or equivalent from german & swedish would basically do the job with no worries? Thanks, -- Olly

Cool, thanks for the info. Just checked my HT leads - all can be made to read ~5.7k with some wiggling, but numbers 2 and 4 read 100k or even open circuit (meter goes up to 2M) most of the time. They don't look like the sort of leads that I can take apart and repair, so I guess I'll invest in some new ones before replacing the coil pack - even if it doesn't fix the miss, these leads are definitely past their best. Thanks for the support, -- Olly

I used to work right next door to german & swedish. Will that be the lower quality one (is it BERU? I'm sure I read that somewhere on here) or the better OEM one? Muchas gracias, -- Olly