Funkster

Hokay, P&P costs for a set of 4 casters: UK first class: £1 UK signed for: £2 Europe untracked: £3 USA untracked: £3.50 Europe tracked: £17 (yes, I know) USA tracked: £15.50 PMs going out to first in line for this batch shortly with payment details etc. Cheers, -- Olly

Going to cheekily use the works post person to send these out, they're going to get me prices tomorrow so bear with me. Gives me a chance to wind the window down and up a few times while driving home from work so will have the extra confidence of more testing ;o) Cheers, -- Olly

And installed in the door! They appear to work fine. Given the density of SLS parts they are a little less stiff and probably won't last as long as the original parts, but since I've just had the first one fail after 20 years I suspect these will hold up OK. The print has come out a little under-size in all dimensions compared to the CAD model, but I'm wary of increasing the size of the model to compensate 'cos there's no guarantee that another print run might not come out with the tolerances in the other direction. In summary: first batch appears to be a success, no guarantees for longevity, will sell parts on at cost. They ended up costing me £2.40 per caster so that's what you pay. Will work out P&P costs this afternoon. I'm not charging for my time (let's consider it an offering to the universal spirit of classic car ownership), but of course if people are feeling flush and want to add, say, the price of a pint of beer to their payment then that would be greatly appreciated! Will send out PMs to those first in line for this batch once total costs are figured out. All the best, -- Olly

There's a hint of Ronal Turbo about them isn't there?

Well, look what just arrived on my desk...

To those that missed the morning cutoff, don't fret - I'll be doing a second batch in a week or so, so there's plenty of time to register your interest.

Goodness, they're popular! Okay, here's the skinny: fronting the cash to make ~60 as a first batch is making me a bit twitchy, plus if I've made any errors in the CAD I'd either be stuck hand-fettling a lot of parts or they'd all be wasted. So here's what I'm going to do: have 20 made on a quick turnaround starting tomorrow. When I've fitted some to my window to check that they're good, I'll send the rest of that batch out to people in the order of replies to this thread (unless anyone wishes to give their place to another), and immediately get another batch on order to sort everybody else out. Hope that's okay with everyone!

Cool, cost should get close to £3 a caster if we buy 16.

I'll do an order on Monday morning so if anyone else would like some just post here by then. Cheers, -- Olly

Sorry for double-post. Depending on where I get them made and how many I order, pricing looks something like £4 a caster, plus a bit for whatever it costs to post them on to people. Also happy to share the files in case anyone wants to do their own order!

Hallo all, I'm going to have some of these printed in SLS nylon, I've done the CAD already. There'll probably be a minimum order value and I'll end up with more than I need, anyone want any?

Hallo all, I'm going to have some of these printed in SLS nylon, I've done the CAD already. There'll probably be a minimum order value and I'll end up with more than I need, anyone want any?

I guess if you keep them in the car the house must be nice and quiet ;-)

Hello! I figured you were probably a DG customer, I am too but not the other day - was heading that way 'cos I work in Stourport. You were the first 'rado I've seen on the road in about 3 years, so thank you for the wave! -- Olly

Green M-reg VR seen on the A449 near Claines (Worcester) this morning, gave me a nice big thumbs-up. Was it you?

I know I'm dredging up an old thread here, but it's *my* old thread so that's okay right? Turns out that "soon" means four years later, but here I am to answer my own question: it's in the switch. Pushing the rear button connects live to both outputs, whereas pushing the front button only connects to one (see first attachment). The rocking contact bits are easy to remove (just unclip the rocking sprung plastic bit that actuates them, and lift out), but I don't think it's a good idea to chop the corner off that part 'cos it'll then tip sideways and you can see that the fulcrum part is crested on that one to allow it to sit equally on the two pads. Instead, I carefully made a cut through the bussbar between the rear switch's front pad and the output for the front lights. There's a hole in the bussbar so I sawed it there with a hacksaw (see second attachment) having removed enough bits to make space for the saw. Hey presto, I have independent foglights and everything else works as you would expect. If you try this, please be careful when disassembling the switch as there's loose pieces that'll fly off everywhere. Once you've unclipped the back, keep the end you press facing downwards while you draw out the switchgear and all should be well. Hope someone finds this useful! -- Olly

Will PM with payment details! ---------- Post added at 8:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:19 PM ---------- Sold! Thanks, -- Olly

Hi all, I've just fitted TT wipers so I have my Lupo GTI wiper conversion setup to go. This won't fit an actual Lupo as it uses two driver's side arms (6X2 955 410 C). Genuine VAG (Valeo) parts. Nothing wrong with the arms as far as I can tell, apart from they're not as shiny as they were when new (would probably polish up?), will include a pair of blades if you like but they're pretty much shot (just barely passed MOT in December) so would be useful for fitting only. Arms have been on my car for ~5 years. Wiki article detailing this conversion: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/lupo_wipers.html Might be good as a cheap upgrade for someone who still has stock wipers? £35 including postage to the UK. Cheers, -- Olly

'lo doodz! Thought I'd drag this thread up to let you know that this morning I won my court case against the scrote that dented my beloved Dub! Very unpleasant process and it's taken nine months to get to this point but it's now officially down as 100% his liability and I get my excess back. Thank b******s for that! I shall celebrate this evening by changing my oil and filter ) All the best! -- Olly

Just to add a little bit to this, for what it's worth: You do need to do the bolt back up to the book torque, 350 lbs.ft. The damper is only driven by friction on the end of the crank nose, and without a massive clamping force it will fret and damage both crank and pulley. If you don't have a torque wrench that'll go this high, just use a long lever and a weight you know - I weighed myself and then held on to the lever at the appropriate distance, and lifted myself off the ground using the lever. My dad was holding a longer lever that was on a massive ring spanner that was on the hex that's part of the pulley - you're meant to steady it using this rather than at the flywheel end. You'll need a good quality 3/4" drive socket, we split a cheap one at 200 lbs.ft the first time we tried to do it up ) fwiw! -- Olly

Sorry to hear that - at least you have a witness though! I'm starting to think that having a couple of cameras on board recording to RAM, and a big button you can push that stores the last 2 minutes' video when something interesting happens would be good insurance for such events. Basic position of any insurance company (and most people on the street it seems) is to lie and cheat however necessary to save themselves any responsibility, all the while feathering the nests of the solicitors that do all the arguing. Good luck sorting your claim out! -- Olly

Fiiiiiiinally got the car back this morning, had to put it on my own insurance and cough up the large excess, hoping to claim this back through court proceedings but probably shouldn't be too hopeful on that. Had some other rusty bits sorted out while it was in the body shop, looks extremely tidy now! shiny_dub.jpg[/attachment:1qj35lmf] Great to have it back, I've missed it so much! Couldn't resist giving it a bit of VR6-noise on the way to work this morning, and very nice it was too. Now to get used to driving it again - taking it to Curborough next wednesday to give it a sound thrashing! ttfn, -- Olly

Thanks for the comments all. I've had an estimate for the bodywork, assuming the rear suspension isn't bent (the tyre but not the wheel was touched by the other guy's car) the estimate is just below £700. When showing them ads for cars in similar condition (tricky, not many have such fresh engines) will they accept ads from this forum or others, or are we talking about print ads only? Thanks, -- Olly

Hi All, Need more help on this, it's been going on for nearly 2 months now and my beloved C is still sitting on my drive with a big dent - other party's insurers are denying everything so my insurer's legal bods are taking them to court. They've had the car independently assessed, and they've really low-balled the value (£1800) and high-balled the repair cost (£2500) so they're trying to say it's a total loss ( What do I need to do to convince them that it's worth more? I'm sure they're just looking at the age and mileage and nothing else, despite it having had a complete engine & gearbox rebuild 25k ago (cost me over £3k), mint interior, refurbed wheels, front suspension rebuild, etc. Anyone got any experience with such a situation? This whole thing is really getting me down ( Thanks in advance, -- Olly

And the correct answer was... diesel golf! I don't like diseasels but apart from that it's okay ) ttfn, -- Olly