VEEDUBBED

Allright guys, I'm having problems with the ABS on my 'raddo. I don't need the pump coming on every 5mins.to pressurerise the system so i'm wondering if 1 disables the pump by yanking out the pump fuse will 1 hit a brick wall 'cos the car won't break???,without the annoying pump on is it safe to drive?. Thanks.

The bugger still makes 810hp,even with remote turbos...

....Or 1 buys a brand new Garret T3 turbo,cheap 8v exh. manifold,injectors,chip etc off VEEDUBBED and bobs your uncle,no more problems with G-laders and your sorted powerwise... :D

Loaded question mate, It could be fuel pressure that's low,(old partially blocked fuel filter),rotted/old vacuum pipes,FPR pipe that's split,bad/old plugs,ign. wires that are past their best,hall sensor inside dist. playing up or broken loose connection(common),tired fuel pump,CO pot that needs adjusting,blue water temp. sensor playing up etc,etc. Try the simple cheap things first.

Oi Miguel, That looks like a twin-cam Alfa head to me,massive head chambers aswell,what kind of C/R are you gonna run?

Nooo!,try the VEEDUBBED!!, Got manifold,injectors,turbos,pistons,spare valver head,yet more pistons,ecus,wastegates,and more. Let me know what you need and we can deal :D

I bought 4 used FK's off eBay.de last year for 180euro,never had the slightest problem,a bit of rust on the secondary springs but that's all.

I'm in the middle of fitting a Peloquin lsd into my gearbox,i've got another in bits so if you need any bits give me a shout :D

Allrite peeps, What cam has more lift/duration?,the standard ABF 2.0 golf valver engine's camshaft or a modded KR exhaust cam fitted in place of the standard 9A's awful inlet cam?. :shrug:

I thought about the injector's positioning too,i was going to chop up a sierra rs500 8 injector inlet that had the injector inserts side by side but i couldn't bring myself to destroy such a rare piece. Anyway on the old sierra rs500s the layout was similer and they pushed out 600+hp. The Marelli/iaw is a sequentially fired set up so each cylinder gets its own fuel supply. Just to be sure that it motors ok i'll go for a test run only using the front extra row of injectors and see if the engine bogs or messes about under turbo boost,if the motor doesn't preform well i'll get a set of add-on aluminium twin injector inserts off eBay and weld them onto the inlet manifold were the original injectors live. Hi Dave(walsey),nice to hear from you mate! :D

I was going to try out something else such as MS,DTA etc,the problem is that there aren't any rolling roads here in Rome that i trust so it meant mapping from scratch,something i don't won't to do. The ecu is the evergreen L8 off a 4x4 cossy sierra modded to run 8 injectors,water injection,varible boost with 12 position switch. I bought it all off ebay and just grafted it all on. The exellent thing about this system is that you can run smallish injectors up to 1 Bar boost then add bigger 1's for high boost,fuel consumption will be acceptable as will emissions(wideband says 14.5AFR at idle). The cost of the bits was also well below any aftermarket kit aswell and spare sensors are two a penny. I personally believe the Weber/iaw system as one of the best,certainly no 'Digilag'!. :D

Right chaps, My motor's been sitting idle for ages now and i got bored so i grafted on a compleat Weber/iaw super Pectal 8 injection system off a sierra touring car,i did'nt use the loom off the sierra as it's a bit too over complicated so i got all the Pectal wiring and added all onto the Lancia delta integrale evo.1 loom already present. I got 8 injectors off two scrapped Volvo 850 T5's,sierra cosworth throttle body off a sierra 4x4 cos.,adapted an old Audi S3 fuel rail and a fuel rail off a knackered Lancia Dedra 1800. The chip's mapped to 480bhp by Graham goode racing so i know that will be fine,the engine runs like a champ. I'll be renewing the insurance soon so i'll try and find a rolling road and let it rip to 2Bar turbo boost,should be fun.

A lot of work mate,i did a 9A 2.0 valver using 2 ABF steel head gaskets,i also have acess to a mate's huge car breakers but it's the simple things that screw you,pulley arrangements,eeprom(i'd only consider a SNS stg.5 no-lag chip),belt routing,tensioners etc,etc,etc. I used the 'DQY' Passat gearbox that was exellent,brilliant for the supercharged mill but not very good for my turboed 2.0 9A,too much turbo lag along with long ratios meant the car was slow off the line.

I hear ya mate,i've got the same problem on my corrado. My corrado's different than yours because i've grafted on a Weber/iaw L8 ecu off a Ford sierra cosworth that's been transformed to run 8 injectors,water injection etc(Pectal super 8). I've tried loads of ways to try and stop the rev-counter bouncing but so far have failed!. The only sure way of eliminatimg this problem is by using the inst.cluster off a mk.2 golf 16valver,it works in a different way to the corrado's cluster. I'm going to see if i can manage to bastardise the two clusters toghter and make them work.

PLX device's R-500,i've got 1 fitted on my ride and it's very good. Good quality and packed with features.

Digilag???...

I've never used the Kluber grease myself 'cos over here in Italy it's hard enuff trying to find a charger,let alone special grease... I used thick multi purpose bearing stuff,i don't see the need for the Kluber stuff as after a few months the grease gets thrown out by centrafugal force anyway,never had anybody complain off the forum were i've sold three chargers,buyers were always chuffed. The oil return is most important though,especially on a G-charged valver if,like i did you remove/modify the boost return.

Ebay.de or some of the German tuning sites,ORZ motorsport,possibly Pitstop in the uk.

Remember to use a pair of mole grips or simileur to remove the center shaft's half moon key,can be bastids to get out. Watch when you go to reassemble the two halfs that the strips don't fall out of their grooves,use heavy grease or Kluber grease to hold the buggers in,time the shafts carefully and note the position of the cogged wheels,especially the timing marks,go carefully when tightening the banjo bolts as they snap very easily,replace the oil line as it's bound to twist as you tighten it's fixing bolt and then leak oil. Seal the two halves with good quality silicone sealant,don't use too much though. Always replace the small timing belt with an uprated 12mm jobbie available from G-Werks. Don't leave exsposed the Magneasium displacer anywere damp as it'll fur up. Coat all the inner surfaces were the sealing strips run with either thick grease or Kluber grease,prime all bearings using clean engine oil and don't bugger around with the inner seals if they look ok and weren't leaking huge amounts of oil,the G-charger is def. a case were 'If it ain't broke,don't fix it',especially were the internal bearings/seals are concerned... HTH.

Allrite guys, Does anyone know what torque the outer bolts holding the outer rim on is?. thanks.

Allrite peeps, Does anyone have any experience with forged pistons?,oil consumption,noise when cold,fitting problems?,i'm asking because i have a set of 4 forged slugs but i don't know the make and i have no instructions either. Do forged jobbies have a thrust side?,these are pistons designed for a 4cyl 8 valve turbo motor but there are no markings on the crown or anywere else. Any info. appriciated,thanks.

I've done a few,there may be my old photos on here somewere,try looking in the search for 16v-G60.

As for the speedo sensor,go to any car breaker and find any 02A 'box and whip it off,the sensors are all the same.

Sorry for not answering sooner,christmas... Right,i was refering to the problems that i created,i shorted out the feed wire(black) on the coil,that same wire also feeds the speedo drive magnetic sensor.I fixed that by changing the affected black wires but the bloody speedo still did'nt work,i then swapped over the magnetic sensor head and it all works fine. The actual speedo drive just unscrews off the top of the gearbox,first pull off the magnetic sensor very carefully 'cos the small plastic retaining tags break easiliy then get a 22mm spanner and unscrew the bugger,see if the worm drive is still attached because in your case it's possible that it has fallen off.

Burnt magnetic sensor on top of gearbox,aswell as frazzled black wire on fuse box,how the hell did the speedo worm drive dissapear??.