VEEDUBBED

Grab hold of a 12v test lamp and see if 1 of the brake light switch wires is live,i think it's the red with black stripe wire.Check the contacts inside the bulb holders for any corrosion and also the harness plugs that plug into the light clusters.

Hi mate, Forgot all about this one..,i changed the slave and master cylinder and flushed the whole car's clutch and brake systems using Ferodo 5.1 racing brake fluid,totally transformed the clutch pedal 'feel',especially as i have a Competition clutch stg.4 racing clutch fitted aswell. I used a Mityvac pump to do the job single handed but if i'd do it all again i'd use a Gunsons eezi bleeder,when you use this tool it comes with a selection of different caps so you'll have no probs. Make sure there's enough air in the tyre though.

Right chaps. I wanna know if 1 can buy a set of all red crystal rear lights,i've tried the american stick-on film that looks the dogs but it bubbles up,no matter how clean the lenses are. Woose done what?.

Right peeps,what's on the menu for clutch cylinders now for our ancient corrados?. Both mine were buggered by the uprated clutch so i need both. I don't think that the stealers stock 'em anymore so it's adaption mode from another Vw. 3rd series golf?,passat?. Whoose done what with what?. Saluti :D

Probably...,but i don't think it'll cost much.

Well you've basicly answered your own question regarding pistons/rods,buy forged components,fit and forget(hopefully). I prefere old skool 8.1cr but nowadays with modern ecus and good injectors you can keep the static cr quite high. At the end of the day the most important part is in the tuning. buy a good wideband and exh. gas temp. gauge aswell,also a mechanical fuel press. gauge inside the cockpit is very usefull.

...And replace the shiyte paper version with the 9A's far superior metal/rubber jobbie.

Check also that silly little return hose stub on the expansion bottle ain't blocked. Are the internal heater matrix's hoses hot?,both of them?.

If i recall the 9A's tank has a smaller opening compared to the Vr's fuel tank. What are you trying to do?,fuel lifter pump packed up?

Checked the bugger,it works fine. I'll check the wiring...

I reckon about 3 years old,strange thing is that with the other clutch it didn't do this..

Right then lads, I've recently fitted a Competition Clutch stg 4 clutch in place of the other carbon/Kevler garbage that i got from the states as it slipped badly even after the break-in period. The clutch its self is fine,grabs like a mofo but that's to be expected,as i've only done 50km/s distance since fitting it and i need another 450 miles to finish. My big problem is that,apart from the hard pedal,is that the clutch has a different biting point. When cold on first starting/moving the car the clutch has about half an " play so,even if it grabs, i can atleast pull away.The problem arises when the car is at normal operating temp.,i loose all play The clutch bites and drags as if the clutch slave cyl. doesn't push the clutch in enough to engauge the gears and i'm left with only a few mm's of play. Faulty master cyl?,old fluid?,faulty clutch?. Cars gettin on my fu$$in nerves now..

WTF is going on here?, After changing the clutch on my ride i've just noticed that the speedo has now become a rev-counter.Here's what happens:start car,if i don't move the car the speedo's needle don't move,if i move the car the speedo needle registers engine rpm really bloody weird... The speedo still works but also registers the revs aswell!,say i'm at 60km/h the needle stays on 60 but it also moves when revvin :( Anyone ever had this issue? or is it a VEEDUBBED induced defect. This car is turning my hair white...

Not allowed mate,the car won't pass the MOT for a start as it's forbidden to to fit even an 'effin strut brace for gawd's sake. Forget aftermarket exhausts,4" tail pipes,added on turbos(me..),external mods but definatly bigger wheels,brakes etc. You can put on bigger wheels but if you stopped and the rozzer on duty is in a crap mood you lose your car 'cos it gets impounded and costs 8Euro a day at the pound+a heafty fine AND your forced to re-take the MOT with the car as it left the factory. I'm ok with the turbo as my car originally left Germany as a G60 so on the log book it states that my car originally was force fed but if your ride is NA and turbo it,your risking big time as well as the fact that the insurance won't pay in the event of an accident. So peeps,if you love modding cars,bikes and gawd knows what else AVOID Italy :(

Hmm,good point,would it be faster? but would it be faster than mine that's runnin a hybrid ball bearing T4,8 injectors,LSD.modded gearbox ratios, modded cams,ext. wastegate,compleat 3" exhaust,short manifold and 2 Bar turbo press on a 7.7/1 CR. BUT still the original bloomin brakes... I don't see 288mm brake discs doing alot to stop my car on full chat. You people are sooo lucky as you can do almost whatever you like to cars,ain't happening here..

Right peeps,I can't get the dam car outta my head. The Corrado's a fine car,especially turboed like mine but at the end of the day i still find myself stuck with a car that's FWD,i CAN'T change the wheels onas it's against the shit Italian rules. So i've got a very powerfull mota but 280mm brakes and 15" wheelsnothing bigger is allowed! I've come across two for sale quite near me so i'm thinking of part exchanging in the 'raddo for the omega. Has anyone got experience of the Lotus carlton?,i remember that the spares situ. was horrendous and the gearboxes give trouble as did the clutch fork mech. Enlighten me with some ideas. Cheers.

What are you drivin mate a 'raddo or a steam engine?. That's the first i've heard of any device like the 1 you mentioned. Sounds like a duff fuel pump,can you be more specific?,does it make the noise when the engines hot or cold?

I bought a set of JE forged jobbies off a guy who is on the Vwvortex,i got an exellent deal,fully heat treated on crown and sides and with custom CR specified by me,his name is Rodney Huss. Apart from the pistons also think carefully about engine manegment,here there's no corner cutting allowed. I fitted Weber/Pectel managment taken off a 4x4 Saff. Cossy,the 8 inj. version and it goes fine but will obviously have to re-map sooner or later as the engine has a small flatspot right after idle. I would also get a stronger gearset and poss. uprated clutch. As you can see,it's gonna cost...

Allrite then peeps, I've done a few turbo valver mills in the past so i can offer you a few tips. The 16v rad is ok for cooling if your not running insane boost,the most important thing is to bin the oil warmer fitted as standard,it's no good for FI. I used the oil cooler fitted on the Lancia delta evo-1,very fragile as it's made of Aluminium but does a good job. The Vr6/G60 660mm OE rad. is superb,ideal for turbo motors. Old Volvo 740 turbos donate their oil cooler sandwich plate and adequate 16row cooler aswell. USE the metal OE headgasket fitted to the 2.0ABF long block mill,it fits straight on the 9A/KR blocks no problem,on the 9A2.0 block just tap down 1 locating pin and enlarge the gasket's hole. Junk the OE inlet manifold and get a short version,this also greatly improves acsess to the camshafts. Bin the 9A cam and get either a KR inlet or modifiy the KR's 'zorst cam and fit that as it's got nearly 2mm more lift. Watch it when milling down the OE pistons as the most you can safely remove is 2mm,add 2mm taken off the con rods by offset bushing and you'll have around 9.0/9.2-1 CR,perfectly useable but i would'nt push more than 1 Bar absolute turbo press. as the engine tends to detonat around the edges of the piston possibly destroying the ring lands. Forged slugs are ideal and are much cheaper now than 10+ years ago when i started fiddling around. If i think of anything else i'll post it up.

Welcome aboard matey :D Grab the head off the KR mill along with it's cams and bolt it onto the 9Ablock,change the pistons to forged jobbies and then turbo the bugger. Have fun!.

Or if you can't find 1 for a 9A get a g60 shell instead,they are the same.

Right peeps,were do i begin??, So far i've added a large,thicker aluminium rad. with 2 12" fans,put a lower rated thermostat in(with 2 small holes to avoid air locks),G12 coolant,Seat marbella rad.fan switch that should cut in at 85 degrees,large oil cooler off a Lancia delta int. and fan relay rigged to run at max. Ok,my engines a turbo16v but in traffic the gauge still creeps up to 110 degrees,as does the oil temp,they are both nearly identical in readings. It has been almost 40 degrees here this summer so maybe that counts aswell. As soon as i hit motorway speeds both go down to around 80,even with outside temps of nearly 40. Walsey's right,you get paranoid and are constantly looking at the temp. gauge...

As title peeps, What's the biggest disks 1 can fit inside a set of 15" BBS RM's??. Including the caliper.

Mikki,remember that i was refering to a LHD steering rack!,my fault as i always forget that your versions are RHD. So what i said will probably be no good to you :(

Oh,now i get you. Unfortunatly the two pipes you refer to in the picture are in the same place on the ZF rack aswell. The only thing to do would maybe bend the pipes? or get two 90degree fittings made up and re-route the pipes lower?. V8 sounds very interesting..when you've finished bi-turbo the bugger :D. Oh $hit,forget my advice,even after 23years of living a different country i still forget that my car is a damm LHD and the British rides are RHD...