VEEDUBBED

On my corrado the in/outlets of the high press. pipes on the VR6 ZF rack are positioned on the righthand side of the rack,opposite the steering rack's pinion that's connected to the steering colom's uj's. The pipe unions don't go near the gearbox bell housing,at least not on the Corrado model. Cheers.

Hi mikki, Remember also that if you fit the ZF VR rack your also gonna need to change the PS pump/lines and fit the corrisponding ZF pump as the lines and attachments are different to the TRW equipped 'raddos. The ZF track rod arms are also longer and some of the TRW versions have a small lip machined on the threaded end were the arms screw into the rack,the ZF rack's gaitors are also bigger in diameter to the TRW G60 rack's versions as the VR's steering arms are slightly bigger in diameter. Remember to use strong locktite thread lock when replacing the arms,i've bolted up the G60 (shorter) arms without any problems so far. I did this on my 'raddo a few years back and it was a good mod,seeing as i got all the parts for free!.. I can't help with the photos as with a 3 inch exhaust going over the rack there's no room.

I'm based in Rome,Italy mate :D . Your not allowed to talk about the eeprom programming??,that's fukin absurd,why not?. Your in the same boat as me,ecu/chip wise.I've got the same problem on my T.16v 'raddo running Weber/iaw managment.Who can you entrust your ride to and hope he don't fry pistons,rings etc. Cheers.

Hi mate, Shame as i've got a decent G60 engine block you could have had for free..,even the pistons are good,i've got so many bits clogging up the place. I reckon on some piston slap cold(at least) and possibly higher oil consumption. Was the ridge that bad?,could'nt you have just Flex-honed the bores?. How is the eeprom reading coming along?,i'm in the same position as you...

Same bull$hitt rules apply here in Italy mate,the only way of going about it here is to buy a G60 'raddo and turbo it,the reason being that on the log book it states that the engine is force fed from the factory. I'm screwed twice over here 'cos i can't change the wheels for bigger ones, which means that even with a 400hp engine i'm stuck with 280mm front brakes. What these stoopid bastids don't realise is that young people DO like modding their rides and are WILLING to pay to get the mods passed.

Right peeps, A word of warning to all of you who maybe contemplating the idea of turboing there valver,i bought a manifold off eBay in Germany a few days back to replace the Audi S4 jobbie on my car for two reasons,1, the manifold keeps cracking and two acsess to remove the turbo is awful. I bought the 'snake' type jobbie off the auction but luckly i didn't pay the 'Buy it now' price of 480euro :shock: ,instead i betted and got it for less than half.Anyway the manifold is nice and cromed,shiny etc BUT,the inside of the manifold is really fukin crap,the dikhead who made it Tig welded the pipes 1 inside the other with huge overlaps that,if you fitted the manifold like this,would surely bugger up the outgoing gas.. I'm talking huge burrs inside the primerys,sloppy crap workmanship. Remember that the outside looks great but a 4 year old could have done a better job re-finishing it. I'm really fukin amazed that a piece of shiyt like that wouldn't have been checked at the quality control stage?. Watch out! :D

Hmm,that motor of your looks as if at some point its had a prang... I reckon you should just get some Sikaflex sealant and go over the cracked sealant,not a lot else you can do really. As for the mount,i'm not sure if the vr's front bracket is different than the G60 jobbie,if they are the same i've got a few spare. Cheers.

Peeps, How does 1 select the outside temp. reading on the MFA,mine has gone AWOL...,which ever way i press the button i don't get that function. The little blue temp. sender down under the bumper is there,as is the connector. Cheers :)

I fitted the ZF rack off a Vr on my G60 a while back. Your gonna need to also change the PS pump to the VR's ZF type,you'll need the feed and suction pipes changed to the VR's. You'll need to change the steering universal joint near the pedals to the 22 spline later versionfitted to '91/'92 corrados. Your also gonna have to change over the steering arms in place of the longer VR versions,the earlier versions bolt into the VR rack ok but the threaded portion of the early rack arms is a bit short,just locktite them in as i did. I found that the quality of the ZF rack compared to the TRW jobbie fitted to my G60 was much better,so was the steering 'feel'. Remember also that if you have lowered your car and are running 205/50/15 rubber the tyres will rub on the car frame.

Thanks guys, I'll look into it,i've just noticed that 1 set of these calipers are, as Henny said,burnt blue...

Sorry for the late reply!,i'm on so many dam forums that i lose track... Anyway,seeing as your going to get the job done at the machine shop you may aswell as them if they can do it for you,they will know what the tecnique is. The Fex-hone is a sort of brush that you attach to an electric drill and after you've done the boring you pass it up and down the bores to finish hone the cylinders. I did it my self whilst rebuilding my 'raddos engine. Yes you may suffer with some piston slap,i have a bit but nothing bad as many people make it out to be. 1 other thing,lots of people have had issues regarding heavy oil consumption when using forged slugs,especially JE-pistons,after doing at least 3 engines with both JE-pistons and Italian CPS forged jobbies and using the Brush techniques supplied Flex-hone all three engines consumed no oil.i wonder why...

Right peeps, I've been given 2 sets of Brembo front calipers,they came off 2 scrapped Lancia K turbo 20vt's,they are the same type as fitted to various Porsches aswell.. and they are big buggers. They dwarf the smaller version fitted to various Fiat coupe 20vt's,delta integrale,scoobys etc. Does someone make brackets for these calipers in order to retro fit them onto the 'raddo's hub?. Has anyone done it before?.

If you get the chance Flex-hone the block,i've done 3 engine blocks using the Flex-hone and it makes a huge difference to oil consumption,especially when using forged pistons. I used JE-pistons in my turboed 'raddo,Toyota mr2 turbo,8v turbo golf etc,oil consumption so far on all the engines is 0.

I just changed the front(bigger) bearing on my recently acquired 9A engine,i had a spare G60 block so i just punched out the old 1 and tapped back the G60 bearing. Remeber to align the oil feed hole!,no need for any press but i reckon the inner shell would be a bitch to remove without Vw tools...

Right,i need to make a portable rev-counter to use on my 'raddo while tuning the mill. I've got a spare instrument cluster that i can break up and just use the rev-counter,there are 4 pins on the back of the small rev-counter head. I'd like to know how to wire up the pins?,which pin goes to the coil,earth,feed etc. Thanks for any info.

They are definatly different mate,especially the rear Vr's engine mount. Different anti roll bar links,wishbones are different/wider.

I'm not 100% sure but i don't think the jetta mill has oil cooling jets, there won't be a drain line for the charger's oil line,small job of drilling and tapping maybe?. extra cooling passages in the block may not be present,the large oval passage right under the timing sprocket won't be there,which is a good thing seeing as it serves fuk all. I may be mistaken but i'm not sure if the jetta/golf had a forged crank or not. No provision for the Digifart's knock sensor that's originally fitted in that fake core plug,although if the golf/jetta engine originally had Digi fitted there possibly was a knock sensor fitted somewere. Cant think very clearly as i've got the 'effin flu... :(

Thermostat is located in a awkward position,under the water pump inside a plastic housing. If you know that the thermostat is missing you obviously know were it's located? or am i not reading your post correctly?.

Allrite chaps, Anyone know were/if i can buy a set of side skirts like these ebay jobbies?, silly fukin canadian ain't answering my questions. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0318080851

I feel for you mate :( , I overhauled the engine on my mate's gen.2 mr2 turbo,right bastid of a job and i did it for free... Anyway,seeing as the intercooler is a compleat pig to get to i'd first check that the fixing clamps have actually clamped the boost hoses,it's esay to miss the hose and as soon as the turbo boosts it pops off the hoses. Is the turbo actually boostin?,does the instrument panel boost gauge register?. Make sure that this garage tensioned the cambelt properly,nitemare to do in situ. Make also sure that the car's cooling system has been bled,again another bastid of a job. 1 other thing,the fuel filter is easily fitted the wrong way up,the 'in-out' letters aren't immidiatly visable and i've seen them fitted backwards.

I've just fitted a T4s inside my engine bay and have no issue problems,mine's a 2.0 9A turbo though. The only way your gonna get the exhaust bends in are turning the turbo the other way,inlet on the brake servo side,you'll still have to make a few bends and a 76mm down pipe if done wrong will foul the steering rack or if your using a .63 or bigger exhaust housing will also kiss the ABS pump's heat shield :( Looking at the exaust 90 degree bend in your picture i reckon you could also extend it so it goes around the engine mount-LOTZ of fabricating involved... Don't froget to fit a flexi joint in the middle,very important :D I forgot to mention that you can buy tight 90 degree bends off Demon Tweeks,that's how i got my corrado's downpipe to fit,even so,it's still a tite bastid fit!.

It aint on the head mate,the 2 switches are located on the oil filter housing next to each other. 1's got a yellow wire whilst the other has a blue and black wire.

When i fitted my hybrid Vr6 gearbox with a new Peloquin LSD the hardest part was getting the crownwheel off the old diff.I don't have a hyd. press so i heated the ring gear with a blowtorch and used a mallet and bashed the bastid out. I didn't even have to mess around with pre-load shims as i used the existing shims,1000KM done and no funny noises. Getting the new ring gear on is easier because the (new) diff. bolts pull the gear onto the diff. You could use VEEDUBBED'S patented method of pre-load checking,install the diff. back into the gearbox casings and with the oil drain plug removed turn the crownwheel using a screwdriver in it's normal direction of rotation,the pre-load is accetable if you feel some resistence when turning/pushing the crownwheel's teeth. It must not be locked up or slop around,i make it sound easy but if in doubt let someone with experience tackle the job...and pay the bugger lotz for the privelege :D

I've wrapped two 3inch turbo downpipes with that wrap and all i can say is it's garbage,the stuff lasts a couple of months then turns to dust. Sparky's right,if you use the wrap do wear laytex gloves as the itching will drive you apeshit,wear a dust mask aswell. The 'Grafite impregnated' wrap is also bollox,it looses it's colour not long after you install it and smokes badly. I bought the latest 'copper impregnated' affair but i'm not gonna fit it,30 squids wasted. The downpipe also started rusting soon after installing even AFTER i'd applied two coats of high temp. paint as a protective primer :mad2: Maybe the protective spray the company suggests to use would prolong the life of the wrap,who knows?,all i know is that the bloody stuff can't be posted abroad... Remember to use a water spray bottle to wet the wrap whilst installing as it helps dampen down the dust.

PART NUMBER PLEEZE :mad2: