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hi, thanks for the help. been out there in the daylight and problem solved, the rattly module caused a miss diagnosis by me im guessing my aux pump has siezed causing the diodes to get hot and melt, my actual cooling problem was the thermostat stuck ni the closed position the top hose was getting hot from the bypass for the heater! the rad was cold by the thermoswithc for speeds 1 and 2 the stat is in the bottom hose. no heat to sensor = no fan action. about a month ago my horn fuse blew i thought nothing of it untill now! the aux pump shares the same fuse so that must be when it siezed and melteed the diodes after replacint the fuse my horn returned oooh errr :lol: but because the diodes had dropped out the fuse didnt blow again! so for future refernce if your horn stops working check your aux pump and the fan control module as your diodes may have dropped out! re soldering them back in has saved me £85 for a new one the pump cost £60 needed one anyway so im happy just got to locate a thermostat for a vr6 on a sunday frankly i aint got a chance! thanks guys! andy

hi been out there tonight,fitted my repaired module,let it run and it got to 100 degrees without any fan or auxiliary pump action :( arse! seemed t pressureise up the coolant quickly too i took the cap off at 90 degrees indicated on the dash and it boiled over a bit i want my car back!! andy

hi thanks guys, spent last night looking at my fan control module in a threatening way.............didnt work! but i did manage to crack it open and two diodes have fallen apart ive soldered then back in after testing them for current flow so i know they work must have got hot for some reason over time and melted the solder! but i dont know which way round to refit them as they were rattling around going to give it a go tonight! and see what happens :lol: bet it doesnt work and im off to vw to spend £85 yep the coolant pumps fitted for a reason but im sure it should run all the time the ign is on as well as after switch off to circulate the hot coolant. theres not any fuses under the cover of the module just a very big one of 50 amp for the fan itself inside the module is 4 relays with lots of electrikery that i dont stand a chance of fugureing out :? why did they get hot in the first place.......... any ideas cheers andy

hi my vr6 is poorly again :( seems im fixing somthing every week! anyway on my way home from work after sitting in traffic for 15mins i get to the end of my road and suddenly the lights go dim and theres an almighty sound of fans from under the bonnet then the coolant light starts flashing at me,im guessing ive reached stage 3 of cooling fans! i pull on the drive and it boils over coolant everywhere! ive not got a live feed to the aux pump after tracing the wiring it enters the coolant control module i have continuity btwn the module and pump after removing the module i give it a shake and it rattles surly this cant be correct,does anybody elses rattle? sounds like somthings broken off! ive read that i should have 3 fuses on the module but i haven got them,i belive the fuse for the pump is shared with the horn is this correct? my horn works oooh eerrr i cant find any blown fuses so im guessing i need a new module due to the rattle.but why would my car overheat when it was moving along is the aux pump so important? any suggestions before i buy a new expensive control module cheers andy

hi im in touch with what your going through!! i changed mine last weekend what a pain in the ass! i ended up removing the inlet manifold top half and undoing the capped screw for the dipstick tube to get my shiney new rad in! i found it easier to just put the rad in and then atteched the fan assy to it! it was i bit tight! i also found that my bottom hose outlet off the rad was smaller than the original and also the plastic buttons the fan screws into were too small and 1 cracked i ended up drilling them bigger the rad also came with extra brackets that i ended up cutting off!(i got my rad from europarts and im getting concerned about the quality of stuff from them as ive heard a few reports from colegues and my timing chainsetc are from them oh well just have to hope my fears arnt realised eh!) but as i needed my car and wasnt prepared to risk damaging the rad trying to remove it i just used a "jubilee" hose clip instead (i know im risking the bottom hose splitting but it works at the moment! hope this helps! andy

hi guys ive been having problems starting my vr after leaving it for a few days,i had a spark and after testing the switching on the injectors (tricky) i found that they were switching!! but the bugger still wont go so ive got a strong healthy spark and switching injectors,the fuel pump primes and runs ive got fuel pressure to the injectors and ive just spent hours trying removing relays etc! heres the rub! the engine was turning over as expected i tryed the relays again and noticed that relay 72 wasnt quite pushed in enough i pushed it in and the thing ran on 1 ,2,3,4,5,6, slowly picking up. what is relay 72 for is it the relay for the ecu and have i solved my problem anybody else had a similar fault??? any help would be wonderfull many thanks andy

hi other people may find this usefull think i may try it tomorrow and see what i find :) try this site http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/detail_faq.CFM?FAQID=26 if this works it saves me buying a code reader! ive got the autodata 2005 disk which lists all the trouble codes but doesnt tell you how to retrieve them! hope it works! any suggestions are still more than welcomed andy oh and cannock aint too bad theres a few corrados around used to see a red valver every morning and i know of a 20v turbo converted vr6 going around(why a vr6 and not an 8v) andy

yep plug clean and dry! no oil fouling and i know compression is fine on all 6 although bizarrly the rear bank was 12.5 bar and the front bank were 13 i checked it cos i had to check where the oil was burning to confirm that my stemseals need doing (oh and guides!). :) andy

just been out to start it after being unable to drive for 2 days due to general anestetic and guess what............ :cry: barsteward wont go! was looking forward to a blat in cold dry air :D right ive managed to get it run heres what ive done. 1 removed plug. we have a spark! 2. checked fuel delivery and pump hum. present and correct 3. removed another plug seeming to be dry so no fuel injection going on! then sin of sins replaced everything and gave it a squirt of brakecleaner down inlet pipe!! it fired and then proceded to run on 1 cylinder ,then 2 then 3 etc untill a minute later when all 6 were singing so what can it be,seems ok now! was the engine being turned over quick enough for the sensors to work? and which sensor controls the fuelling any suggestions other than popping it over to jody! and paying money! is it possible to bridge the connectors to read any fault codes ive got obd1 i think as theres only 2 wires in front of my gearstick please help me i want my corrado back! andy

hi ive got an intermittant problem with my vr6 it starts every morning rain or shine cold or warm........................but if i leave it for a few days ie weekend it wont start on monday morning the engine seems to flood with fuel ive taken the fuel pump fuse out before to get it to start and it did eventually then refitted the fuse ond awy we go just wondered if anybody else had this problem or what it might be (my guess is a faulty ecu temp sender causing overfueling when cold) any advice gratefully accepted andy

hi nick great i thought it must be the stem seals! i was sending the head off to be polished and ported and when i asked the guy to fit new guides he asked why,i told him and he told me it was bore wear as it doesnt smoke in the morning on start up! got another question...... is it possible to change the stem seals with the head in situ with the piston at top dead (obviously) or do the valves drop down too much just to save me taking the head off! yes i know its a quick fix but it will confirm it is the valve giude and seals before i commit to a ported head as i dont want to spend my money on an expensive headwork job only to find out i need a rebore/piston job. cheers andy

its easy to remove the strut without upsetting the camber settings.... do what i did remve the stut from the lower ball joint remove the driveshaft cv joint and trackrod end unbolt the caliper and away you go! admittadly it was a ball ache but it saved setting the camber again for the sake of a wheelbearing in my case!!! good luck the c.v joint seemed to be glued into the wheelbearing i actually used a sledgehammer to knock the c.v out in the end note to self.......put the big nut on before hitting the joint :-P andy

hi just after a spot of help with my corrado vr6 its smoking badly on the overrun when i lift off. its amusing but also embarassing :wink: ive actually seen other motorists "wafting there arms in front of there noses" but deep down i know it needs attention! it doesnt smoke on start up which is odd for valve stem seals but looking at the head the oil pools lower than the top of the seal so hopefully thats ok. im also aware of the bore wear that vrs suffer (is it on 1 and 6?) has anybody else only noticed oil burning on lift off and what was the cure? hope i dont need a bottom end its only done 120000 :( ive got a spare head off a golf to rebuild if thats the problem, are all vr6 heads interchangeable i thought they were but its a different part number to my corrado head :? many thanks andy

ive just had an ashley competition exhaust custom made by john ashley and what can i say its simply wonderfull, fantastic!!! no knocks bangs thumps strange whistleing noises or bird twittering in the boot area! i had a custom stainless fitted 3mths ago by soundproof systems, tipton and it was utter, utter rubbish ive got my car back how it should be! its not noisey at all! but has that wonderfull vr6 waffle and a subtle tailpipe in keeping with the car! the cost was great for a cat back all fitted. only trouble is it aint stainless but it wont crack as easy and will require replacement before all the soundproofing fiberglass has been blown out the back! as happened to the stainless! :D ima happy happy bunny! give john a ring on 07973540145 or 01922720767 http://www.ashleycompetitionexhausts.com these guys are good! theyve been making exhausts for 30 years and are in walsall west mids just had to share my joy!! andy

hi justa thought (i do have them from time to time) you say that mk4s have a poor m.c. and your pedal only sinks when there is a vacum does the pedal sink very very very gradually without the servo assistance? try putting an even pressure on the pedal without the vacum and hold a steady pressure for a few minutes and see if the pedal sinks if it does the m.c seals are shot! also it doesnt do the seals much good if they are moved out of there normal operating range.you can still have a firm pedal when the seals are shot the test is to apply pressure over a period of time not just a few seconds! to check for air in the system push the pedal to the floor and then pump the pedal if the pressure builds chances are theres air in the system! good luck! andy