juloesG60

At the moment having problems with my cambelt seeming to slip, i have heard the crank bolt is known to fail and have bought the Mk1 DX replacement one. What other parts throughout the G60 engine are known to have design faults and have uprated/new replacement parts?

Iv ordered DX crank bolt part N0401064 which is off a Mk1, which other replacement bolts can you get? and r worth doin?

What can cause the cambelt to slip?

Had similar problem in Feb, felt like running on 3 cylinders for bout 1 week new dizzy cap and rotor, helped then went back to rough. At idle revs fluttered and even when cruising revo would sometimes flutter all over place, also which dosnt seem to have happened to u the car would cut out and not start. After lot of head scratching and two garages, found ECU had 6 solders burnt out! Also was thought to be hall sender so revamped dizzy. A new ECU off Ebay £70 has sorted it. But what caused this seems to have been dodgy wiring by last owner jamming alarm in so got stung by rewiring of fuse box!!!!!!! £1250 total bill. But a few ideas for u there ne way hope dosnt cost u so much!

You have almost identical problem to me but in reverse. I checked my boost levels on the MFA in my G60 to find idle was slightly off, this can be due to timing too advanced. Took it to the garage to find timing was out and corrected it. Now left the car with fuk all power and runs slightly rough! Took it to specialist and he rekons something may have slipped and from what ur saying he might be right! shit!

Ok guys ur helping loads, i rekon seems like either cambelt jumped a bit, or the guy in my local garage didnt set timing properly, keep ur ideas coming cause gonna phone the garage in the morning and mention all your ideas for him to look at - though now little worried bout Geof Bloor! but il let u know how he does! cheers

Say the ECU corrective timing mechanism wasnt disabled, would it cause this much of a problem? how do you disable it? Not sure about blue temp sensor but will check. The garage seems to think the cambelt or something may have sliped, static timing is bang on though. cheers

Got it set by the local garage, so not sure how many different ways are there? apparently it is now bang on 6 degrees though

After checking my MFA figures boost was low at idle and bit at redline, corrected timing from 22 degrees to 6 degrees to find boost figures at idle are more healthy but car runs bad. No power and supercharger seems to have disapeered. Whats strange is that it was almost fine before timing was changed! Limped the car to Geoff Bloor in Nottingham he rekons cam belt slip or something mechanical effecting timing ne one else had this? Could be nailed cams but engine is not too noisy and before paying for him to take half the engine apart to check everything, belts and cam wise are there any other ideas that it might be? Cant find any boost leaks, possible ISV? Lambda sensor? ne thing like these would they cause this? thanks Jules

would a boost leak, make it run rough?

Ok now its got intresting.. Took it to my local garage here today to find timing was out set at 22 degrees instead of 6 and distributer was slightly loose! dream! So ud think now run sweet as...no now runs slightly rough and supercharger seems to have lost most of its power...but to make it more intresting MFA now shows at idle 600-620 much better!! Havent dared take it to redline in third to check that...ne one got any ideas? please coz my credit card is about to explode! cheers

Today thought id check boost levels with the MFA like id read about, so went through it and as i read at idle was supposed to read between 550-750, but was idling around 500. It says in the speel that this could be due to too much Timing Advance, so how do i adjust that? Then i put third to redline and MFA showed 1600 and it is supposed to be appparently 1800, could this also be to do with timing advance or more like a leak. As i have had a Jabba Stage 4 less than 6000miles ago shorely this shouldnt be. Also could this be related to what i have found recently, in where i lift off the throttle there is a bit of a jolt and not so smooth as it should be, any ideas, thanks

I had a similar problem on my G60, diagnosed at first as Hall Sender in the disributer, but ended up being that solders in the ECU had burnt out i.e needed a new one! supposidly caused by a dodgy alarm install. Could also be Ignition Coil..good luck

Fitted an uprated headlight loom, all connections seem to be right when at standstill works, dipped and full. But move off and bang fuse blows in #1 slot, though full beam still works? ne one seen this? thanks

A few weeks after i bout the car last August poking around in the bonet i realised there were two chassis numbers! You can only see the second from the side thats why i didnt clock it before, but the one below is just random and crossed out with the top one matching the logbook which dosnt seem at all bodged. Really weird has anybody seen this before? cant see if u stole it or anything dodgy u would leave the old one?! cheers Jules

cheers for replies, looks like it was in the fuse box some very dodgy wiring by a previous owner jamming the alarm in! knob! Worst thing is that the grarage bill came close to a grand!! yes a grand!! but least the beast is back on the roads...though now im ill so cant really go far! Jokes!

I dont know if it is temp related, im doubtful due to the guy working on it telling me it ran for 2 hours and it must of got up to temp before then! I am not sure whether the melted relay was the ECU one, but i am praying that it is that but everytime there seems like an answer, something else seems to appear! Also he said if it is that it could be costly to replace, surely replacing a relay cant be too taxing?

Basically over a month ago, took car to a garage in Reading cause i could feel wasnt running quite 100%, bit rough, was suggested to replace dizzy cap and rotor arm, fair enough was better...but then drove bout 100 miles came to big M4 roundabout and bang revs go everywhere and cuts out! worst thing having to be toed off by a Ford KA, yes a Ford KA!! So after checking all i could see testing sparks, fuel and things thought probably Distributer itself so took it to another garage Karcare where luckily mechanic there Matt worked in VW for 7 Years. He thought ye distributer hall sender, refurbished mine, tuned it ran fine and the agian cut out!!! Back to square one next stop management ECU! found 6 solders had burnt out in ECU! after some tracking managed to find one on Ebay £70 not bad contnected and he ran the car for 2 hours..then u guess it cut! Now he is checking Fuse box/relays things says is a bit of a mess cause of apparent bodged alarm fitting and found a melted relay...a possible sollution but as u can imagine Labour is stacking up! Has anybody had similar problem? Burnt Out ECU? Cutting Out? What was the cause? thanks, sorry bit lengthy! But I need the boy back despirately

definately yes!

ye thought might be the youngest get a few jelous looks on the roads s am only 18! managed to blag my step mums 9 years no claims insurance, just love the corrado, owned a 81' Mk1 Golf C which was in family from new which was a ledge but couldnt resist the G60 when i worked out i could just about to aford it what a car, though for a student is a little tough on the wallet!!

Mates Dad only reversed into my G60 on New Years Eve!! Going back to Uni in Reading on Sunday so cant get it repared in time up here in Nottingham, so anyone know a decent Bodyshop down near Reading? cheers