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Unless you can find an ABF head to strip the parts from, you may have to go to VW for the parts you need. I can't imagine the collets at least being too expensive. Other than that I'd give GSF or Eurocarparts a ring.

I've just rebuilt a KR head with ABF valvegear and it runs sweet as a nut. :clap: The only obvious difference I saw between the KR and ABF valve gear was the valves, split collets and the top retaining cap. The actual length of the ABF and KR collets are pretty much the same, hence why there's no collision with the stem seal, it's just the ABF ones have 3 locating ridges instead of one. I couldn't tell from your pics if you'd done this already, but aside from smoothing the inlet and exhaust ports I found that when I gasflowed my cylinder head, there was quite a bit of work to be done in blending in the back of the valve seats to the inlet and exhaust throats.

It's been a while, so I though I'd do a bit of an update... I got my car running using Megasquirt and my mate and me had it running around the carpark at work, doing a little bit of tuning. It's fairly easy to do once you understand what all the settings do, but as we found out it's pretty much impossible to get a good state of tune without a visit to a rolling road. After getting it up and running one of the first problems was the radiator fan, the original VW one had literally destroyed its bearings and was making an awful racket. I'd though about replacing it like for like, but decided to get a 12" SPAL fan instead as they're slimmer and more powerful. On a valver it bolts to the existing radiator cowling almost perfectly, I just had to add a couple of extra holes if I remember. If you want one of these fans, I'd recommend going to an air conditioning company, they're much cheaper than ANY 'performance' store. Corrado92.pdfspalfan.jpg[/attachment:1h3nd6qw] I've fitted 280mm disks and callipers. These are a big improvement over the 256s but still don't really have enough bite for my liking; I've got a 23mm master cylinder which should hopefully improve things a bit though. Me and my mate decided to groove the disks at work, we used a 4mm ballnosed cutter and went 2mm deep, I think they look pretty good and should keep the pads nicely de-glazed. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfbrakes.jpg[/attachment:1h3nd6qw] Trying to get a good steady idle and warmup was a real nightmare, after using the standard VDO ISV with Megasquirt it seemed impossible to get the resolution that I wanted. I tried three different ISVs but to no avail. As it turned out, the TIP122 power transistor used in Megasquirt had blown as the VDO ISVs seem to draw too much current. I didn't really like the way that the VDO ISV looked either so set about looking for an alternative. I decided to use a Ford ISV as I'd read about them on the MS forum, they're much smaller, draw less current and much cheaper to replace as they're fitted to every ford since about 1992. Mine cost me a fiver from the scrappy!. The problem is however that on fords they mount directly to the inlet manifold and as such are more difficult to mount in a VW!. What I did was make a part out of aluminium plate that mounts directly to the end of the inlet manifold. The air comes in through the small K&N air filter, through the ISV and straight into the manifold, not a hose in sight!. I can't stress how good the ford ISV is for MS applications, it's possible to get a rock steady idle that varies by about 20 to 30 RPM and a good controllable warmup. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfisvmod.jpg[/attachment:1h3nd6qw] Unfortunately despite two trips to Stealth the car is only mapped to about 5k. The first trip was cut short by a core plug in the head letting go, and having to pay an obscene amount of money to get home by train on top of having no option but to pay Stealth to fix my car. The second trip, which was more successful, highlighted a few bugs in my installation. Basically I'd paired-up the injectors wrongly, they should be 1&4, 2&3 and a setting in Megasquirt relating to if EDIS triggers on the leading edge or falling edge of the toothed wheel. The net result of these two problems was random jerkiness under acceleration and a some very severe dips in the power curve. I sorted these problems out within a week and the car drives really well up to 5k, but I just don't have the money at the moment to get it fully re-mapped. In addition, the cylinder head needs to come off yet again. After rebuilding it due to a several valve springs shattering it turns out that the valve guides on the exhaust side must have experienced excessive wear as it's burning oil. I should have replaced the valve guides when I rebuilt the head but they seemed to be fine, apparently not. The suspension and top mounts are also completely shot as it steers terribly, I'm not sure they're designed to last 156k!...I kid you not. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfengine.jpg[/attachment:1h3nd6qw] enginebay2.jpg[/attachment:1h3nd6qw]

Fair enough dood, if your wiring is fooked then it's probably worthwhile replacing it and also satisfying the masochist within! I think the glovebox is pretty convenient for placing the ECU, as it's easily accessible. I did consider mounting it in the centre console somewhere though, but couldn't find anywhere convenient. In addition to the wiring, theres also the vacuum line for the MAF to consider too. Mine runs really well now, it's amazing how smooth the engine runs. The difficult thing is tuning it (still ongoing!) and getting over all the teething troubles and obscure Megasquirt settings. I took it down to Stealth for a tune-up but unfortunately a core plug in the cylinder head started leaking, combined with some other problems, like I'd paired up the injectors wrongly and one of the EDIS settings was wrong, so it was a bit of a disappointing day and we never really finished the tuning. That said, we got it to a reasonable state of tune up to about 5000rpm and got the all important ignition map looking something like. I can't afford to get it re-tuned at the mo, but Vince reckons it should easily make 180bhp. Incidentally, Vince was less than impressed with Megatune, it's all a bit clunky when compared to DTA's interface. Give us a shout when you're ready and I'll gladly knock up a dizzy blanking plate for you, you'll need to use the newer stylee ford coil pack with it though, which also conveniently fits the VW ignition leads. If your interested I've also just made an ISV plate that bolts onto the end of the inlet manifold. I found that the VDO ISV's are really rubbish to control with MS and also draw too much current, thus frying the TIP121 power transistor. A Ford ISV is much better, draws less current and has more resolution to boot. Have you got yourself an inlet manifold sorted yet?

Hey Stu, Just a thought, but maybe you're creating unnecessary work for yourself here mate. From my experience of doing my own MS install, there's actually very little overlap between the MS ECU loom and the Corrado's general wiring loom. IIRC all you need to splice into in the standard wiring loom is the fuel pump, the tachometer and a switched 12V source. It's up to you if you want to use the existing fuelpump relay, I chose to add a little fusebox and separate relays in the driver side foot well as it's a convenient way of doing it. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdffusebox.jpg[/attachment:c52d1] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfECUloom.jpg[/attachment:c52d1] I also rerouted all of the engine bay wiring across the bulkhead into the cabin, it was a bit of a pain as it meant chopping the loom in half and splicing it together but it does look much neater. Similar to what you're proposing, I initially I tried to integrate as much of the MS loom as possible into the general wiring loom of the car, but to be honest I found it quite difficult as the two essentially run in different places. In the end I decided to get the cars general wiring loom sorted, test it, repair it, make sure it was working properly and then worry about the MS loom, which was a challenge in itself :lol: On my valver it was also possible to ditch the entire engine loom from the ECU backwards and also cut out shed loads of wiring to the fusebox that was simply not required, like the ISV wiring and ignition coil wiring...just make sure you don't get over zealous :oops: If you look at the picture you can see where I've capped off the wires I've cut. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcutwires.jpg[/attachment:c52d1] enginebay.jpg[/attachment:c52d1] Anyhoow, if you need any help just give us a shout 8)

GazzaG60 - Sorry, I probably didn't make it clear with what I wrote. My engine was rebuilt over a year ago and run in using the bog standard K-Jet with basic mineral oil. It was on the road for about 2500 miles until it became apparent that the cylinder head had problems. The car was then taken off the road to fix this and instead of refitting the K-Jet, that was almost dead anyway, I decided to fit megasquirt. I agree, it wouldn't be a good idea to run it in on partially completed maps.

Yea, I got my basemaps from the following links. They need a bit of tweaking for my setup, but are an excellent starting point, the ignition map is especially useful. http://volksearch.com/patatron/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19 and http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53889 I'll post my maps when it's all tuned up properly.

Yea, that page seems almost infamous on the web and when you actually think about the theory behind it, it makes perfect sense. I'm not sure what power and torque i'll end up with tbh, the 16V ABF engines produced around 150hp straight out of the box running digifant, so i'd assume this should be easily achievable with mine. I really can't wait to get it dynoed! To my mind the real benefit of megasquirt is that absolutely everything is tuneable to it's optimum, in a way that manufacturers are just unable to do for practical reasons. Plus it's a great challenge getting it all put together. As to be expected, the difference from running K-Jet, which in all fairness had seen 140k on my valver is unbelievable. This is only based on the engine idling as I've not yet had it on the road, but i'm sure it'll be awesome.

I basically broke my engine in by using wide open throttle in primarily 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear from low revs, to about 4500-5000 RPM. I'd then come off the accelerator and allow the car to decelerate using engine braking. I kept this up for a few hundred miles, although I think the main break-in occurs within the first 20 miles or so. Check out http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm There's loads of debate over this break-in method, but the fact i've got excellent compression would suggest that it works.

It's been a while, so I thought i'd update this post with the current progress on my Corrado, namely my Megasquirt install. After rebuilding my engine it ran pretty well for about 2500 miles (despite the whole K-Jet being a bit ropey) until it started to blow the dreaded blue smoke out the back, which was a nasty surprise to say the least. After stripping the head down, I was also surprised to find 7 broken valve springs, 4 bent valves and only 12 stem seals left! The remnants of the broken springs and stem seals were lodged in the oil pickup strainer. Incidentally, the valve springs were all brand new items bought from Eurocarparts when I originally rebuilt the head, I can only assume it was a dodgy batch, not that Eurocarparts were remotely interested :roll:. The bores on the other hand were in perfect condition, with distinct polishing marks on the thrust side. There's a lot of differing opinions regarding engine break-in and I opted for a 'hard' break in, which appeared to have worked very nicely. A later compression test with my freshly rebuilt cylinder head seems to confirm this as my compression was consistently around 225-230psi on every cylinder. I'd been looking at Megasquirt for a while, and since K-Jet had been thrown in the bin it seemed a good time to implement it. I also wanted to get rid of the dizzy and use the Ford EDIS ignition system for a completely electronic system. This is fairly straight forward, but requires the fabrication of a 36-1 trigger wheel to be mounted on the crank, along with a variable reluctance sensor to read it. EDIS uses the trigger wheel and it's missing tooth to synchronise the ignition with the crankshaft position, the VR sensor works like a guitar pickup and 'counts' the teeth on the trigger wheel. In addition to the trigger wheel the dizzy was replaced with a ford coil pack mounted on a blanking plate in it's place. The K-Jet injectors have all been replaced with 'proper' ones and the fuel rail is a BBM item with their MK3 fuel pressure regulator adapter on one end. I probably would have fabricated a fuel rail, but this came up on ebay and was too good to pass up. The wiring for Megasquirt is fairly straight forward, I chose to use the relay board to simplify things which means that all the engine loom terminates to it. Unfortunately the enclosure I chose is too small and i'm not keen on the connectors for long term reliability, so these will be changed in the next few weeks. Anyway onto the good stuff, I had the car started last week and managed to set it up to achieve a good stable idle. It takes a bit of trial and error, but it really is amazing how differently the engine runs. I'll keep this post updated as I progress with the tuning over the next few weeks. Stay tuned!.

You haven't mentioned what engine you have, but it sounds to me like the temperature sensor that cuts the radiator fan in isn't working properly and consequently your coolant is boiling over.

I'd personally take the C's MPG reading with a pinch of salt, as far as i'm aware it's purely based on manifold vacuum and as such probably not that accurate. For example, according the MFA my 2.0 valver running on a less than perfect K-Jet setup apparently gets roughly the same MPG as my mates 1.8 Focus, yea right!.

It'll definitely be the internal dizzy seal thats gone if it's leaking through the cap. See my previous post http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... highlight=

If it's black wire with a female spade connector on the end, then it may be the wire that goes onto the temperature sensor mounted to the cam cover for controlling the fan overrun.

Cheers for that info Gav. It's certainly a cheaper option than buying a new dizzy!

As the majority of 16V Corrados have most likely covered a fair few miles by now, the chances are that the internal oil seal in the distributor is well past it's prime. This usually manifests itself through increased oil consumption as the oil leaks from the cylinder head past this seal and forms a puddle on top of the gearbox casing. Unfortunately this oil seal is not available from VW/GSF etc seperately and requires a whole new dizzy, which is clearly a complete waste of money if it's only this seal thats gone. If anyone is interested I can offer a brand new oil seal, complete with a guide on how to fit it for the wallet friendly price of £10 delivered. I've tested this on my own 16V for a couple of months so I know it works fine. For those that are interested just send me a PM! Ta, Andy

Try using the search...

Thanks for your replies guys 8) Sounds like my injectors could be a part of the problem then if it's recommended that they're changed at 120k. I'll also check that the WUR is getting the full supply voltage too. Would it seem likely that the WUR mod that stealth do would sort this problem out, assuming that the injectors are good and the WUR isn't broken?

It's a rebuilt and rebored 1.8 KR block using a 9A crank and pistons with the original K-Jet injection. I'm not sure it's the thermotime switch and cold start valve. When cold starting in cold conditions the engine catches and runs ok for a few seconds. About 5 seconds later it starts to run rough and the pinking starts. My thinking is that when the cold start injector cuts off one or more cylinders are running too lean. I've set the CO at idle when warm to 2% and the timing is correct and it runs well when warm, but still pinks and runs rough when cold. From my understanding the WUR increases fuel pressure (and therefore flow) when the engine is cold to enrichen the mixture during warm up. Any thoughts on dribbling injectors, they have done 149k miles?

It's a 2.0 running on K-Jet. I'm pretty sure that the thermotime switch is related to water temperature so probably wouldn't be the cause of my problem. The WUR heater resistance is 23 Ohms, same as bcstudent.

Yep, i'd be surprised if a slight capacity increase would affect anything, especially only when cold. I'll go and have a measure of the heater in the WUR and see how it compares.

Yep, i'm using BP ultimate fuel and the timing and CO are both spot on. The reason I suspect it's the WUR is that it only pinks when the engine is stone cold. Do you know off-hand the resistance ofthe heater coil? The engine is now 2 litres and the WUR has not been altered from when it was used as a 1.8, could this be a problem?

I've just got my car through its MOT after rebuilding the engine and everything runs well, although it needs a proper RR tuneup after i've finished running it in. My only problem is that the engine runs fine when warm but pinks at idle when it's cold. I'm assuming it's doing this due to the WUR regulator not richening the fuel mixture sufficiently and so it's running too lean. Can anyone confirm that my WUR is probably not working properly before I go and get a new one? Cheers, Andy

Cheers!, home just wouldn't be complete without some car related action going on :) I ordered my battery tray in July last year and it arrived just as i'd re-fitted the engine 6 months later, bloody typical, so i've never actually fitted it. The chassis leg box section was pretty much unaffected on mine, it was just the body panel to the side that was rotten. I reckon that cutting the rotten metal out should be pretty easy though.

I've just got one of these from the stealers at a bargain price of about £35...however I did have to wait 6 months for it as it was on backorder!! Part number is 535 803 093