chigmuss

Sorry fella hadn't kept an eye on the thread, but as I said above Paul is superb, I've had panels on a 911 and a S2 elise and vw bumpers done by him, all perfect. Like I said, Paul isn't cheap but you really cannot fault his work. I think if you pitched up at his place you'd immediately realise that and the big Lotus sign hanging over the place speaks volumes. Not be cheeky or owt but if you are after a two penny job for something you aren't fussed on keeping long there's a garage opposite the Police Station on Clifford Street (parallel to Shields Rd, Byker) proper back street sprayers, dirt cheap but way down on quality

Try paul at Heaton Coachworks on Rothbury Terrace, Newcastle. He's not the cheapest but his work is top notch (Lotus repair centre) 01912760999. Or try Ian (aka Chunky) at Foxhunters lane Whitley Bay, he used to work for Paul and his work is also good I've heard although I've never used him- his no. 07906906383

If this is your last resort fella PM me and I'll buy it for you and ship it as a 'used car part' worth a few quid, you'll hopefully not get shafted on taxes. Obviously I need you to pay me back for it, it's not some philanthropic gesture out the blue!

I've got a 4motion 02m box if you're anywhere near Cumbria? PM me

Thanks for that Chris, I have the keys and clocks and for the sake of the extra work was prob going to use the Mk4 clocks, I've already had an OBD1 VR6 in it already using Mk3 clocks, think the Mk4's will go in at a push.

Hi Guys, after having spent god knows how long going over this thread again I can't spot the name of the company that does the ECU re-flashing. I'm trying to get my 24v into my Mk2 and think that getting this done will save me some head aches. Any companies would be appreciated and/or tips on what is vital to get changed and what isn't on the re-flash...Thanks

Guys thanks for all the advice, having sourced known working ISV & MAF it turned out it was the MAF. Problem totally disappeared now. Strange thing is the fine wires inside the MAF don't appear damaged, but....in the skip it goes. Shame you can't revive the buggers considering how much VW want for them.

In relation to your idle this sounds a little like the trouble I was having with mine (see low idle/cutting out) and after changing ISV which made no odds it was the MAF. The symptom I had was coming up to a halt in 2nd or 3rd the engine just smoothly died to no revs at all and would hunt badly at lights if it hadn't already stalled. If you're lucky enough to have someone who can swap their MAF onto yours to eliminate that it may be a wise route as they are F Off expensive from VW and 2nd hand aren't that cheap but it's always a risk using 2nd stuff.

Sorry to hijack this slightly but it's Saturday (very late too) so I can't check til Monday but...has anyone tried buying their ISV from Ford for their VR6? Reason I ask is that my head is still hurting after I hit it when passing out in the VW spares department, after being quoted 232 quid for a new one!!!

Well guys, followed the advise and cleaned ISV and TB but it still cuts out when I pull onto my driveway in 2nd, just goes quietly into a stall. Got new leads and plugs to go in but shall be doing comp test as appears to be small amount of oil on plug 1, haven't had time to look at others yet.

Hey guys, thanks for such a quick response. I don't know anyone local who has VAGCOM so I can't do the ECU reset as described in the Wiki (it does say on it you'd be wasting your time if you don't do the VAGCOM bit :mine being OBD1 does that make things more complex still?). I'll try giving the TB a clean and check the pipes to the ISV tomorrow. Thanks

Hi Guys, I've searched the previous posts but couldn't find a topic that exactly matched the problem I'm having. The engine is (OBD1 dizzie vr6 100k) in a MK2 (1990 vintage) and I recently removed it to change various gaskets, check timing chains etc. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor. The car always took 3 turns to spark up. After the new cap/rotor it went on the very first turn. After a week or so I realised that in my haste to get the car back on the road I hadn't re-connected the lambda sensor so I did that. Only a few days after (coincidence or not) it now idles really low at perhaps 450-500rpm and will eventually fluctuate itself into a stall if left running. At junctions the car will just come to a stall, especially if in say 3rd and coming to a roundabout and having to stop, the revs just die straight down to zero and it stalls. I've cleaned the ISV which was filthy but it's still stalling. Anyone any ideas or helpful pointers, I was thinking clean the MAF next but after that where do I go?

rado.001, if you need some wrap try eBay, think I have at least 60% of the 50metres of black graphite impreg stuff I bought, if you like will send you it, then you just need to pop down to Screwfix and buy some jubilees to hold the ends of the wrap. PM me if you're interested.

Cheers for the feedback guys, yeah I guess it's the variable element that is gonna screw up my idea. I suppose if it was just a case of tube fabrication alone I wouldn't have been the first to arrive at the idea. Ah well, time to save up the notes for a VF then.

Forgive me posing this question but I've read the GB with interest regarding the Schrik but having just about finished building back up the top end of my VR I started wondering.....is it purely an equal length/ un-restricted air flow that gives the increase in performance from the Schrik. That being the case then would it not be possible to replicate this using tubing to give a similar pattern and even ceramic coating the thing to overcome heat transfer. Sorry if I've missed something real fundamental here, but I am more than willing to start fab on this if that's my main criteria to getting these to work for alot less than 800 quid.