schrickvr6

MMMmmm sweet as, respect for pushing it to the limits.....but staying within recommended tolerances 3.1l is the most you can take it, using 83.5mm pistons is still only just over 3.1l and the block must be getting close to too thin or no?

I'd like to know how that was done, please tell me more or point him in this direction...... Is that using an ABV block? If so i'd imagine the crank throw must be huge and the thing hates revs?

AFAIK using pistons alone you can only go to about 2960, anymore you will need a 95.6mm crank...which aint cheap, and even then 3.1l is the biggest you can go with an ABV block.

You can get sump plugs with a thread tapped in them for a sensor, I can't remember where i saw them though sorry.

Could anyone tell me what type and size the thread is on a VR6 oil temperature sensor? Cheers

Have a look here , i'm going to be ordering one in the next few days so maybe if somebody else wanted one we could work something out together, alternatively i'll be the guinea pig regarding service and the quality of the kits

If anyone is interested i know of someone in the states that sells kits for $165???

Schimmel do ship internationally, you could also try http://www.mjmautohaus.com there site is not fully functional yet but email Kelly with what you're after and i'm sure he will sort you out an excellent price. :D

Thanks for the advice guys even if it is a little late :-P I managed to get it sorted reasonably easily with only one or two skinned knuckles, it was the belt that was jamming up the main fan and stopping it from working. Ollie do you mean that the increased coolant pressure can blow the headgasket? This is the second matrix to go in this car grrrr but it's not 'too' bad a job just removing the centre console and lower passenger side dash.

What a day, the first sign of good weather and i end up with a boiled foot :x I was stuck in traffic today for a while before i pulled onto the bypass, within seconds the windscreen had misted up and i had boiling water pouring on my foot...i knew instantly the heater matrix had gone....but it's lucky i keep a bit of 30mm copper pipe in the boot. :D But before i got home it was getting very hot and on inspection the rad fans were not coming on. My first thought was the fan switch but looking closer i found a small belt hooked around the blades of the main rad fan. I can see a pulley on the back of the secondary fan but where does the other end go? And more importantly how do i get to it? PLease please please don't tell me it's a bumper off job, i say this because there is very little room between the fan cowling and the inlet manifold. Shouldn't the main fan still work without this belt fitted?

AFAIK all OBD1 VR's suffer from the 1 and 6 bores wearing prematurely, i thought the OBD2 had different rings or pistons, or both to stop or at least reduce this?

Water 60:40 G12

I can do 16 pin OBDII and 2X2 OBDI in the Newport S. Wales area. :)

I've been looking all day for the the sheet that shows the different switch configurations to raise or lower the flap opening point. If anyone could scan this for me or point me in the direction of the relevant thread or webpage i'd be very grateful. Before anyone says try the search i've googled with no success, and every search i do here turns up hundreds or thousands of results....cheers

I've had one on my golf for a while, why's that?