jonocos

http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsLi ... 15ES&Nav=5 Try these, could save alot of problems.

Yeah i think i would have a hard time getting them replaced considering they are not broken.I really am disapointed in the way they make the car feel now, they are almost as bad as the supersports. Maybe have to fork out the cash for Konis or go all the way and buy Leda suspension

Shocks are nearly a year old now but have only done approx 6k.No leaks or damage.Most of my driving is on country back roads so i do hook the ditches,jump the car and hit the odd pothole but i have noticed the ride is starting to get worse,it grounds out the spoiler under braking now and rebound damping is now almost non exsistent. I swapped to the FK's after having Supersports the first time round but has anyone else noticed a drop in performance from the Fk's.These are the non adjustable coilovers and are on a 16v so no heavy VR lump in the front. Am i right in thinking that FK's have a lifetime warranty?

I would have to admit that in the real world on UK roads 4 wheel drive would make more sense.My real point though is that grip and handling are different,just by increasing grip by driving all 4 wheels you do not automatically make the car handle better.It may feel like that but its just hiding the fact that the chassis cannot cope with the power, especiallywhen using a drivetrain that was never developed for the car you are putting it in and is not adjustable enough to be tailored to the car. Installing 4 wheel drive can make a bad car feel good but very rarely makes a great car better.

You wont make a car handle by making it 4 wheel drive.You will of course only increase its traction, if you spend the time and effort exploiting the Corrados allready excellent chassis you will create a car more than capable of using 300+ at the front wheels and easily beating 4x4 driven cars in most conditions. Clever use of geometry,suspsension point relocation,roll bars and making your tyres work properly will surprise even the most committed 4x4 supporter. 20v Turbo race car we have worked on has 330+ and has only quaife diff and trick suspension mods.Rides better than my road car and uses all of its power with little drama.

Was just thinking of fitting these to my car.If you still have them then how much would postage be to Scotland, PH3 postcode.

Yeah, i had heard this from others before i did the conversion but since i've only done about 2k road miles and 80 track miles i cant say i've noticed. Hope its not too bad as my front pads aren't cheap.

Upgraded with 25mm Master cylinder from Audi Coupe, will look for part number but think it was 2.2, 5 cylinder non turbo and non abs.It took away the long pedal i had after fitting the S2 front calipers. I have gone back to a 22mm at the moment because i started to have problems with my rear brakes locking before the fronts but that was not related to the different front brakes or master cylinder just having sticky tyres and lowering affected the grip at the rear under brakes. The initial bite from the fronts is very good and i run Mintex M1144 pads all round to eliminate any fade when they get hot. The 22mm MC gives me more feel but a slighty longer pedal,its not drastic but it is noticeable compared to standard.With the bigger MC there is less feel in the pedal but you have to push it less.

I have this setup on my car.The Audi pads dont cover the entire disc and you have about 8mm on the outside edge of the disc that doesn't get used. Doesn't seem like a problem at the moment but i would definately suggest upgrading the master cylinder as when i used these calipers with the standard 22mm the pedal is abit longer. I got my set second hand and bought new seal and slider kits from VAG but my pistons were corroded so i machined new ones from Stainless steel so no more corrosion problems and they work very well indeed especially on the track with uprated pads.

Yeah agree with above.I bought Supersports for mine from Venom and sent them back 1 month later,ride is shocking :wink: the rebound damping is not strong enough so the car bounces instead of soaking up the bumps. Venom were very good though and sent me the FKs without a problem to replace the Supersports. FKs are still not perfect but are alot better than the Supersports.

I nearly crash every day i go to work in this weather :roll: I have a 13 mile journey on dual carraigeway,A roads and the last 3 miles on almost single track stuff. Toyo R888s are not for these condtions. :lol: Certainly though i am fully awake by the time i arrive at work!!!

Save yourself the rebuild! 199bhp KR engine.Complete engine including race clutch,flywheel,stainless 4-1 manifold(lagged),45 DCOE Webers. Comprehensive spec list,100% reliable and freshly rebuilt by AGRA race engines in Dundee. For sale as upgaded to 1.8t. Sitting on pallet wrapped and ready to ship. PM me for spec list,mpeg of engine running and price.

Couple of inches today but nearly all gone by this evening. Still 1mm would have been enough as i'm still on my R888's. Nightmare :shock:

Cheers for the replies.Main point for me was whether the main shaft would fit my flywheel and clutch,it is a cable change box so imagine its a straight fit to shafts etc. Glad someone saw it on track cubed,did you see the race Rado later on m8? Only managed half dozen laps when it let go :( .Was looking good up till then,spent the last 2 weeks at night preparing for it. Put on Audi S2 Calipers and 280mm discs with Mintex 1144 pads all round,goodridge hoses,Toyo R888 tyres and a shed load of other stuff that i would rather not calculate the cost of!!!! Not to worry though,got the chance of this 28k box so i think i'll follow that up and see how we go from there. Thanks again!

Yes or no answer would suffice.Please!!!!!!!!!! :lol:

Having any gears would be good for me! :oops:

After a track day yesterday i am now in need of a new gearbox as the diff pins let go. Could anyone advise me if a G60 box will fit my 1.8 16v and if the changes in ratios are much of a concern? I can source a very low mileage box tomorrow and it would be a quick way to get the car back on the road. Cheers

Scirroco 16v Right hand drive.I owned this car and was informed it was one of only a handful of cars imported and converted before sale in uk. Also if any of you have seen a Campaign Corrado then there were only 6 of them ever made so i would class that as extremely rare. On a supercar note i saw a De tomaso Pantera Gts once in Edinburgh and have never seen another in the flesh.

It cracks me up all the talk of racing this and that.At the end of the day if you beat the other guy then you did beat him!!! If he wasn't trying or was low on boost :roll: ,still running it in :wink: or whatever the excuse it doesn't really matter, but in all honesty do you really think the car any of us drive is as fast as we make out. Between my 16v and my bros 02 Civic Type R there is little in it even flat out at a speedo indicated 146 for me but in reality can my car be really as fast as a 200bhp state of the art hot hatch? I think not :? and even if it was my car would certainly break down first at continued flat out pace. Any car is only as fast as it is on the day regardless of tune or money spent. My mates 350z is also charged and is close to 500bhp but i could beat it if the charger belt failed. :lol: If it happens i'll be there.

Update on the car so far, it is back from TSR and everything went fine apart from a slight boost leak that couldn't be traced in the time they had to work on the car. Car now needs to be run in and power is set at 265bhp at the wheels for initial running and fault finding. Car was out on private road for a blast and owner reports "its fast".Understatement i think!!! Car will be at Dreadnought TVR's next tracknight at Knockhill on Thursday 11th August.Usually 6pm - 8pm. This is an open track night and the track is booked for 2 hours with no time limit on track time.Its a friendly event and is open to anyone to spectate and track time is available by contacting Dreadnoughts. http://www.dreadnought-tvr.co.uk/index.php Check out their Rover race car on the site,it should be there.

Sorry for the mistake with the pics, didn't realise i should attach them. Just left the garage tonite with last minute changes to the car before it goes down south for mapping and dyno. It now has another side exit exhaust on the other side to keep the noise levels down for racing. The brakes are TVR based as the guy who used to part own this car has a Tuscan himself and is friendly with the dealer hence the availability of parts. A local engineering firm made up the bells and mounting brackets for the discs and calipers and also supplied the windows and custom exhausts. There is also the old engine now sitting in the corner,a fully rebuilt blueprinted 2.0 16v KR engine running twin 45 carbs with all the trick bits,this was the original engine in the Rado and is now no longer needed. Dyno sheet for 199BHP and comes with AP racing clutch.Interested then PM me.

Forgot to mention also race car has TVR Tuscan front brakes,16 inch Speedline magnesium wheels,Leda remote reservoir coilover supsension,Eibach antiroll bars and is very very loud.

Storm has Koni Coilovers,Uprated disc and pads,Magnex exhaust,de-cat and induction kit. Nissan is full low comp engine rebuild with JE pistons,carrillo rods,carbon propshaft,carbon twin plate clutch,Pro charger Supercharger running 22psi with front mount intercooler and full stainless exhaust. Race car spec is massive but is fully blueprinted 2ltr 20v,low comp forged pistons, hybrid turbo,motech management,ERL water injection,custom cams and cylinder head,3 inch side exit exhaust, the list goes on. Should be set for a few shakedown tests at Knockhill soon.

Spent the last few days out at a mates cleaning his collection of cars so i thought i show you the results. Rado Storm, Nissan 350z (badged as 500z!)If you look in the engine bay shot you'll see why!!!!!Around 470bhp. Lastly Rado race car which will be on its way to rolling road for final engine mapping and power run on Friday. pics thumbnailed ;) - dinkus

My local blaster dips the wheels in a tank of caustic to remove most if not all of the paint and then gives them a quick blast to clean the surface and make it uniform for either painting or powder coating. Paint stripper you will find is not that good at removing the paint from wheels as the alloy is porous and the paint stripper dries into the metal, also on factory wheels the etch primer is especially hard to remove with only paint stripper. Caustic dipping is the best way i've seen so far to remove the paint and not damage the surface.