Rpmayne

I've finally got the VAG-COM working and have been driving the car about trying to find a possible cause for the intermittent stalling. There were lambda and speed sensor error codes but I guess that could just show when it stalls. I've reset the codes and none have come back. Thing is, is there a list of average values for a correctly running VR6 to cross check? Things such as.. Ignition advance at idle and higher speeds (on mine goes between -6 idle and -36 higher revs) Lambda values (mine never seems to change from 1.0) EGR (mines at 217deg.C although I take it the UK Corrados don't have this) ISV duty cycles at idle (mines at 55%ish) Also, should the vehicle speed in km/h register as it stays at 0 on mine. Thanks.

Finally got round to temporarily removing the alarm and the car now starts as standard. The alarm fitment was a complete bodge, and had only 2 of the 3 point immobilisation connected amongst other things. Only problem is I now don't have central locking via the door locks which used to work via the alarm, and the stalling continues. The only wire I can't find a home for is a single brown/white 0.5mm which was connected to a blue wire from the alarm unit. It looks like the same coded cables connected to the door switch for the interior light, so guess it was the doors open signal. Can anyone confirm this or is it central locking related? As for the stalling, still no idea. Car finally ran right until the heater matrix blew and soaked the immobiliser, now removed the problem still persists. Other strange thing is... If the ignition is on the fuel pump sometimes primes on and off continuously, and other times it will prime the usual once, yet when any other electrical source is switched (ie. indicators, main lights etc) it will prime again. Any ideas as always much appreciated, stalling may be completely unrelated but the fuel pump priming issues are abit worrying. I suppose once the car is started the fuel pump runs continuously anyway so no issue but something's not right somewhere. Cheers.

I say it depends how much the car is selling for.. I'd say its on borrowed time, and when anything does need doing its bloody expensive. I personally wish I had spend a few more grand initially a got myself a mint one rather than getting a pretty good one and thinking I could fix things for cheap. No mk2 running costs for a VR, think more Porsche.

I appear to have some free play in the steering column linkage just up from the peddles. I can move the steering wheel a couple of mm each way without the steering rack half moving. There also appears to be metal dust forming and sometimes I can feel grinding through the peddles when steering on the spot. Anyone had any issues with this before? Could the steering rack bushes be knackard so causing the problems? The spline clamp is tight btw. Cheers.

Although the red wire (direct feed to battery) has constant +12v, the yellow wire (switched by ignition) also needs +12v to switch the stereo on. Do you loose the radio presets when it turns off? The red wire is the supply that holds the stereo memory so if not, that and ground is probably ok. The problem is probably therefore down to the yellow wire, and possibly due to the ignition switch accessories contact as mentioned. One way to tell would be to connect the red and yellow wires together, so bypassing the ignition switch and feeding +12v directly to the yellow wire aswell. If the problem dissapears its the ignition supply that's at fault. The stereo won't turn off when the keys are removed now mind. As I remember I thought its easy to replace the ignition switch contacts.. remove the steering wheel cowling and wiring loom plug, undo the contact block from the ignition switch mechanism via 1 phillips screw and it unclips.

Cheers for that, will try bypassing the immobiliser part first and hopefully the mysterious electrical problems will dissappear. Just another thought... When you have a alarm and remote locking fitted, does that inhibit the door lock switch from activating the central locking as it would have originally? Whenever I lock the car via the drivers door the central locking doesn't work. Just hoping that when the alarm is gone I will at least have central locking.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for where alarm fitters would intercept the Corrado wiring? I want to remove my Laserline as the matrix blew up and soaked the control unit. Ever since the total closure hasn't worked, the car has real trouble idling and intermittently stalls, the battery dies on ignition (not running) within 30mins and other curious electrical problems. I'm hoping these are all down to the alarm. Thanks for any help.

I've done a couple now. Once the allen key bolt is removed its only the rust holding it in I found the easiest way was to remove the disk as mentioned, undo the allen key bolt then use grips, screwdriver, hammer etc to smash the carp out of it until it gives up and falls out. As long as you don't hit anything around it the new one will go in no problems.

It might be worth borrowing an ECU if someone has one. Not sure if the VR ones are as vunerable as the mk2 digifant ones but I managed to blow one up by not tightening the earth strap to the block after doing the clutch. As I understood it, because there was not a good path directly back to the battery the starter motor current earthed through the ECU so frying it. I've also had an ECU go in the VR (not my doing as far as I am aware) and the motor turned over fine but no sparks and the injectors stayed continuously open resulting in hydraulic lock. Unless your 100% sure what you're doing I would get a reputable garage to take a look at it. No mk2 Golf prices with a VR, I bought alot of expensive cures for mine, half of which I probably didn't need. Problem is finding someone who knows about them.

I've been pretty happy with the ride, the amount of roll it reduces made it worth it for me, and doesn't make the Corrado look like a 4x4. I'd buy the same again, just make sure the kit is different to the lighter engined cars as the original springs I had didn't feel even, and the car seemed to dive into corners and make the back light early. Still fun though, just the chassis dynamics springs made it feel more neutral again. May have just been the wrong kit.

I had the Jamex sportsline on a mk2 Golf and was happy with it for the price, definitely handled better than standard. Saying that I had two rear shocks go which is abit un-nerving whilst cornering hard, both replaced on warranty. I thought Jamex had gone out of business and had become Gmax. Maybe wrong as its a while ago but anyway, I got the Gmax kit for the VR Corrado and it was better than what came off. Ended up changing the springs for Chassis dynamics and keeping the gmax shocks as the front felt too soft compared to the rear and the ride height was abit too low for my liking. Thought they may just use the same kit / springs on all the Corrados and don't allow for the extra weight of the VR. For the price I think its a pretty good bet, just not sure about the VR weight.

Just back from one lap of the ring and think I may have some potential problems. Just wondering whether these symptoms sound familiar to anyone... Starting to get some vibration through the gearstick and a grinding noise when changing down hard, most noticeable 3rd to 2nd, although it does do it in all gears. Occassionally crunching into 2nd when changing down as if the clutch isn't completely depressed. When parked, turning the steering wheel just off center feels like its grating. Can be felt through the floor of the car and the steering wheel. Not noticeable when moving. Some major torque steer which I never used to have. Overtaking flat out up a hill and had to correct by 2-3" steering wheel movement each way. I'm wondering whether a gearbox bearing is getting tired hence the vibration. It's on a original box at 120,000miles. Could the gearbox also cause the torgue steer, maybe something diff related? All suspension bushes etc are 2 years old max. Thanks.

Brilliant game, going to the Nurburgring tomorrow and have been practicing using the Corrado as much as possible. Sense of speed is wicked and as you say, take everything but the ABS off and the handlings brilliant. Much prefer it to PGR, loads more detail and seems easier to control to me. Hows everyones lap times? Managed a 9:30 on the Nordschleife with just exhaust and filter, will be interesting to see how that compares with an actual lap. Maybe won't take quite as many chances as in the game though.

Anyone got any ideas where I can get 'backup' maps for europe and UK OS maps? I take it you just transfer them onto a SD card and then they can be selected via the Road angel? Thanks for any help.

It was unfortunately an instant stop and ticket. Another one of the traffic police was very pissed off everytime someone went past doing the speed limit as I was sitting there. Surely that's what they want, to see that everyone is doing the speed limit so safer roads and no issued tickets? I didn't get that impression.

Been done tonight going into Seaford, East Sussex on A259 East Bound. 39 in a 30. :mad: They will be there until midnight so just a warning if anyone on here is over this way.

I've got PGR3 Lippy. I'll send you a message via xbox live if I get a chance to play later on.

I finally had a good go at this problem at the weekend, spent 9 hours doing the following to try and figure out why the brake light was intermittently coming on. - Unplugged all the fusebox connectors and had a good look behind. Found a few very dodgy alarm connections which I repaired but nothing seemingly related to the brake light. The main alarm feed cut into the fusebox wire had a loose solder joint. - Replaced the fusebox with a second hand one of the same part number. Thought it maybe something internal to the board. - Replaced the fuel pump relay with a second hand one. As I expected this hasn't solve all my problems. The brake light hasn't come on since (haven't driven far) but now everytime the brake pedal is pushed with the engine off the fuel pump primes. Turning the light switch from off to dipped to full also primes the pump. Once the car is running the ECU earthes the fuel pump relay and holds it on, so not really a running problem, just abit worrying that something is wrong somewhere. I have no idea how these things are related. All I can think is either something is shorting the ECU signal to the fuel pump to ground, or the supply is being lost when using the brake / light switch so it re-initialises. Any help much appreciated as always.

If the nut spins with the thread all it does in undo the other side of the thread which is self-tapped into the heater box. Keep twisting it until the box comes loose, remove the box then you will be able to see the other side of the bolt as DaveVR6 said.

Think I'll get down the local garage soonish then and hopefully they'll have something they can measure the pressure with. Any ideas what the coolant pressure should be?

Does sound like the heater matrix with the sticky water, no other leaks and coolant disappearing. Mine turned the car into a sauna when it let go so I had no doubt. As I see it the collant feeds to the heater matrix are the highest part of the system, so with the engine stopped the coolant from the matrix could have already gone into your car which you have dried. Once you restart your car the water pump will feed the remaining coolant system water back into the matrix, so once coolant is present again under pressure it will probably leak. I'd probably try lifting the carpet and sound deadening from the passenger side, drive the car about and look for the water before it soaks everything again.

Yer, I normally get the air out with the engine running, the cap off and heater on hot/motor running. I didn't think that made any odds on these cars as the water should always be flowing through the heater matrix but do that anyway. Still seems under alot of pressure.. Can you easily squeeze the hoses on yours once the car is up to normal temp?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/4834480.stm

There are two cables that do the direction. The windscreen cable / flap only works between the top left and bottom left positions so that's probably ok. Sounds like its the cable getting tight to the feet / air vent flap, or the flap itself. Only way to really make sure is to take the cable off the arm at the back of the controls and see whether the control then moves freely. I think its the bottom arm with the cable going down towards the floor. Should tell because its the arm which moves the furthest. Just be careful with those clips.

I take it that's without the cables and / or box connected? I think there's a abit of sprung metal that makes a click everytime the dial reaches a position (ie. wndscreen, feet etc). It locates into indents on the cog at the back of the dial. Maybe that's fallen off and jammed somewhere? Could just remove that if so, the dial is never going to move on its own with the friction of the cables.