Rpmayne

Mine is doing what you describe, sounds rough but then will pick up intermittently, below 2500rpm. Above that its feels ok, maybe abit flat. It's got progressively worse, recon its overfueling, the exhaust is very sooty and I got about 15mpg coming back from London at pretty average speeds. Near enough cuts out everytime I take it out of gear now, was thinking the lambda sensor? The plugs have always looked abit black, probably in desperate need of a remap aswell.

Thanks, have heard of these easyouts before but as you say, if I break one in there that's game over.

I've got a mk2 Golf 16v with a knackard engine and I sourced a second hand complete engine to swap. Thing is when the engine was removed they snapped a couple of the studs flush with the head, then gave up and cut the downpipe in half. Wish they'd done that to start with. Anyway, any ideas of the best way to remove the old studs? I've got some new ones, and ideally didn't want to split the head to do it as apparently the engine was in a good runnable condition and don't want to throw unnecessary money at a head gasket set, head bolts etc. Thanks.

I've ended up selling the car back to Huets as they want to restore it. Hopefully it will back to its former glory very soon.

I would have thought so because the crank to cams timing will be out by the difference between the two markers on the flywheel / clutch.

Here's a couple of overall pictures, I'll try and get some more of the interior once it's all back in.

I'll try and post some tonight, maybe will be a before and after if I feel brave enough.. Alot of work to do, will be interesting whether you lot think it's going to be worth it.

It is the car g-man, just phoned them (cheers Neil) and its the right number plate. Once I've got it running they want to see it again, apparently it was the owners own car before the install. It's a shame someone has let it go, interior is in very good shape, but the exterior paintwork has got the green fungus growing on it as if it's been sitting under a tree for a few years. Abit of rust has set in aswell and the alloys are well in need of a refurb. Must weigh a ton with all the dynamat, shutting the doors sounds like an Audi.

Thanks, would be well interested to see any pictures and whether it is the one. It's one of the last J-plates aswell so a few things going for it. My first VW was a 16V so that's what I was going for, the other one was sort of thrown in. Can't keep them all so now in abit of a dilema. Thanks for the offer but I better leave the VR, still have a soft spot for the mk2's but must stop somewhere. :roll:

This weekend against my better judgement I have bought back into the mk2 Golfs with a pretty tidy late 16v and a slightly tatty 8v. I got another 8v coming back soon so was thinking I could make at least 2 tidy cars out of all the bits. Thing is (testing the memory abit here) but does anyone remember a white mk2 Golf featured in Maxpower and alike about 8 years ago? It looked pretty standard outside apart from being de-stripped and 17" wheels? I'm pretty sure the slightly tatty 8v is this car; everything is covered in dynamat, full closure alarm, and something which makes it stand out for me is a CD changer hidden behind the middle air vents which is exposed when you adjust the air flow. Interior is immaculate. I remember sitting in their show car and it sounded and looked wicked at the time. I've emailed them to see what they come back with, but if it is the car I can't bring myself to break it.

I've got a turn2 engine mount on my VR and I think its a good improvement, its reduced the engine movement alot without any extra virbration that I can notice. Bought it from the US on ebay for about £20 delivered. It just replaces the lower half of the original engine mount with some sort of polyurethane bush the shape of an ice hockey puck. Bargain in my openion.

Sorry if it's been mentioned in this thread before (had a quick look through and search) but has anyone used chassis dynamics springs on a VR6, drop, ride etc? Phoned a company up about H&R's and altough they said they are very good, they don't think they're worth the price. They instead recommended the chassis dynamics ones at £90 delivered instead of £150 for the H&R's. Chassis Dynamics also make the springs for later cars with the 70mm front spring seats so no need to buy the early ones (80mm) from VW to fit the H&R's.

I agree, I'm temped to just get the whole lot in one go but at worse case thought the H&R's would be an improvement then get the koni shocks later. Had a good blast along a motorway yesterday, trying to corner foot near enough on the floor at about 130mph and it was trying to oversteer. Does that sound right? Expected it to understeer if anything. The back seems to let go sooner when steering right (the side with the lower rear ride height) than going left. Make any sense?

Sounds like I should be able to swap the springs then if you had gmax springs on standard shocks. The diameter must be the same to suit standard and gmax shocks. Must remember to get the smaller type at the top mount end, think they changed the size around '93 '94 on the VR's.

Noticed a while back that the rear offside of the car is sitting about 15mm lower than the nearside. Thinking the spring must have a problem (shock wouldn't cause this?) so thinking of going to H&R springs. Would they be a direct swap for the original gmax springs? Also this weekend the car didn't feel very sharp, the steering was fague and over 100mph the steering wheel had about an inch of play before affecting the wheels. All bushes have been changed, and just passed a MOT so ball joints should be ok. Wondering whether the front top mounts are shot. Any thoughts? I know I should go Konis aswell as springs but can spare about £100, not £400+.

Cheers Zippy, I'll tell him that :D Just had another chat and apparently there's no fluid going to one of the rear calipers. He tried loosening the fitting for this pipe at the ABS end and there was no fluid coming out. Looking like a dealer job then. Cheers all.

A mate a work has had a problem with his mk4 Gti Golf. He was bleeding the brakes and let the reservoir run dry. He's now tried bleeding the brakes 8 odd times, and the master cylinder, and one of the brakes does not work. The peddle feels ok apparently, just that one wheel never locks up. Any ideas on what else to try? Thanks.

I didn't get the ignition remapped straight away because I thought I should run it in abit first before sticking it on a rolling road, and whether it would actually make any improvements. £500 for a EPROM worth a few quid and a few hours labour seems alot. A rebore was never the intention, it apparently needed it and so the situation just snowballed. I wanted it as standard as possible while still improving it to make it seem worth while. After months of other unrelated problems I was just grateful at the end that it worked. Sorry, do mean the valve seats btw. :oops:

I did end up going down the 82.5mm rebore and mahle (standard type) pistons, and 20k down the road its going well. Just read through this thread and forgot about the remapping, was leaving it until it had run in abit. Do you recon its worth it for such a small increase? Don't think it quite makes 3.0L, and everything other than 3 angle guides, k&n panel and exhaust is standard. Had a go in a mates standard VR6 Golf and it seems to pull alot harder than mine. Until then I thought mine was quick, feels bogged down.

Managed to blow mine up aswell when I had problems with the ECU cutting out and getting the timing all wrong (backfiring through inlet as kev says), you need to find the cause before it does more damage.

I thought the fuel pump may be the problem on an Audi 2.0 16v as it was making alot of noise, used a fuel pressure tester and 5bar was present so it was ok. I borrowed the tester from a local garage, worth getting it positively checked.

Just signed up then randomly read one of the comments... 9433. Lee Pitts I'm affraid this is to late, the no gooders won a while back, we appretiate all your support at Combe, but the Minority (11 of them) spoiled it for the many, it was a sad day for motorsport for the whole country, you can be sure others will be hit with the same from other selfless individuals. Keep suporting Combe and show then who really won! Sounds like its already been condemned, can't believe people give these tree hugging hippies the time of day. Like the people near Alton Towers banning the fireworks for a few evenings a year. It's bonfire night, its not new. Obviously don't really have anything worthwhile to worry about.

The plugs for the front ABS sensors are on top of the suspension turrents, round black 2-pin connectors. The rear ones are the same connectors but situated under the rear seats, either side of the centre arm rest. Each sensor should read around 1.5kohms.

Do you know where you can get the clips / screws from or part numbers? Alot of mine have been replaced with self tappers which eventually fall out. Also, the roof lining rattles, any ideas where you get that matting from which they stick on the inside of the dash etc? Looks abit like recycled carpet. I thought you could get a spray on dynamat type sound deadening. Remeber the sheet stuff being pretty expensive.

That is pretty impressive, might give that a go myself to see what's happened to it over the years. Does it include any other work that has been carried out?