Pickard1

If it doesnt open from the inside then they have either pullled off or snapped the little plastic linkage that fits onto the door catch, The only way in is to break in. Once the door is open you can remove the screw in the end of the door and take out the handle. The situation can then be rectified from the hole in the outside doorskin where the handle sits. Dont let them try and take off the door card as the bit they have broken is only accesible from the outside so thats a waste of time, and they will damage the doorcard badly by taking it off with the door locked. Considering they broke it you would at least think they might have an idea how to fix it :shock:

I got exited when i saw the Perkins engine, I thought you'd fitted it with a Prima...... :( I was going to offer to buy it off you! It would have made a great addition to the Corrados in the car park at work.. :lol:

See what colour the smoke is. If its black and soot-like its likely to be unburnt fuel. If it does it all the time it could be your lambda.

You could try the idle screw at the back of the inlet manifold. These can work loose over time and eventually pop out as they have an integral o ring that gets old and worn out. It could be loosing its seal as the engine gets warm. Is there any whistling noise?

I have just done the multimeter check on my ABS. The Drivers front was reading 1 on the meter, meaning that I have a short circuit I think. I reached round behind the wheel and what i think was the sensor was loose and with hardly any force it came away in my hand.... :? I presume this isnt normal.... Should there be a screw or bolt in there? does anyone know what size it is? I need to pick one up at work tomorrow and see if I can get it fixed before the w/end. Cheers, Dan

I do 500 miles a week in my G60. Economy is purely dependant on your right foot. Driven hard you are looking at 24 MPG, if you go carefully you can get early 30's. At 3000 RPM in 5th your doing 70. If you go much higher than this the MPG really drops. I dont have the willpower to go slow so have had to buy a diesel. Either way its better than a 16v. Also, check with an insurance quote before buying. I have insured my car with Tesco and Churchill. Both of whom quote cheaper for a G60 than a valver from the corresponding year. Not sure why.

Does the 'ancilliaries' include water pump? Are they putting all the pipes back right? I had a mate who changed his head and routed a coolant pipe into oil and vice versa. The result was the engine instantly dieing and mayonaise everywhere!!!! Hmmm...what about the oil cooler...... It all sounds like bollocks to me, the block and head castings should be pressure tested before leaving the supplier.

Last 2 questions: Do you just push the barrel into the new housing and it clips itself into place? How much for the housing? :lol:

My shear bolts had already been replaced and so had the ones on the replacement barrel I brought. I think realistically there isnt much dannger of a thief breaking in and taking the time to undo your replacement bolts... Does the new unit come with the steering lock bolt and all the fiddly springs? Would it be just a case of sliding the lock barrel into the casting? Sorry for al the Q's. Im thinking that ordering a new housing might be my best way of keeping the original key.

Im not sure how the new lock housing would come from VW. I brought mine from a car that was being broken on here so it came with a barrel and key already in it. Has your new lock housing come complete with a key barrel etc or is it just the housing?

The only Idea I have had so far is to drill out the barrel from the good ignition column, then insert my old barrel and secure it with a little grub screw down the hole I drilled. Not perfect, but no one will know unless they start removing the cowling. :?

I thought about doing this, but if the car got nicked you wouldnt have a leg to stand on with the insurance company.

Right then, I thought I would provide a little update on all of this now that I have the car working again!! After removing the horn, then the steering wheel, then the cowling I had access to the steering column. I drilled a hole as per Toads instructions but nothing happened. I then drilled another hole and the lock barrel came free. Unfortunately I cant remmber which is the good hole - :oops: sorry people! Prise out horn: Disconnect horn wires: Undo large nut (22mm i think): Remove cowling by undoing 3 phillips screws from below: To remove the top cowling it was necessary to undo the 10mm nut holding the handle for the steering wheel height adjustor. Remove wiring loom to indicator storks. (4 plugs): remove indicator storks (3 flat head screws - although these looked to be replacements on mine) Drill Hole: This still didnt sort the steering lock so I looked at the design a bit more and noticed that there was a pressed in panel on the side of the ignition barrel. Using a hacksaw I enlarged the seam and then prised this out with a large flat bladed screwdriver. This pulled out a load of gubbins from the bottom of the ignition barrel including the steering lock. I refitted the barrel and could now steer and drive the car. However part of the 'gubbins' I had removed was the spring that clicks the ingition switch back from the starter motor position. So although the car was drivable it was not a good idea, and eventually ended with a burnt out starter motor :( when i forgot to disengage the starter motor. With panel prised out: Gubbins that came out: This week my new steering column arrived. Andy had sent the whole assembly right down to the UJ down by the pedals. My first intention was to swap both columns, but this didnt work as mine was attached to the car using what apeared to be rivets, which I didnt fancy drilling out. After looking at the ignition barrel some more I decided that it appeared that you could remove it without pulling the splined nut off and removing the circlip, disturbing the roller bearing etc...... I experemented on the new assembly first by removing the two bolts that went through both pieces of casting (see pic). The assembly came apart fairly easily but wouldnt slide clean off the column as the steering lock was catching. I used a knife blade to slide in between the two halves and depress the lock bolt, this worked and the ignition barrel casting came off. I repeated this procedure on the assembly in the car, this came apart even easier as it didnt have a steering lock. It was then easy to swap the good barrel onto my car. Rivets: Splitting the ingition barrel casting (remove 2 bolts from position arrowed): (mine had a torx style screw and a 10mm bolt. andys had two allen head bolts. I'm not sure what should be standard. I now have a working ignition switch and steering lock. The only downside is that my ignition key doesnt match the boot (delocked doors) as I am using andys key. I dont see how it is possible to change the key barrel though as it appears the assembly is put together by pressing in the lock components in the factory. If anyone knows better please let me know as I would like to be using the original key as I have three copies.

Have you tried shorting the connection across the radiator thermoswitch to see if the fan runs at all?

It was only after extracting all three bolts that I realised what davidwort was meaning when he said just take the two out. I have re-inserted the third bolt now. Whai i found was that when i jacked up the engine the gap stayed the same, i actually got the holes to meet up by pushing down on the engine mount which was slightly springy. Probably that means ive got a buggered engine mount as well......lol Anyway, the good news was that the starter was completely intact so the motor must be burnt out, but nothing more serious. The new starter from GSF was the wrong one, even though i brought bosch. It had 3 holes rather than 2. It looks like they have changed the design so that all three bolts go through the engine mount rather than two, as some kind of a cost saving excersise no doubt! :lol: Now i have the old unit off will get the correct part next week. Is it worth taking some pictures or would it be teaching people to suck eggs :?

OK I have started this job. All charger pipes, radiator fan, wiring etc removed so I have a clean veiw of the starter motor. I am just a little unsure as to supporting the engine. Would a bit of wood on my jack under the gearbox be enough? As I see it I could use the sump - which is presumably pretty thin or the gearbox which is aluminium. Which is the lesser of two evils....? Secondly will the engine drop much? how much should I jack the engine up? I presume just enough to 'take the strain' Any help greatly appreciated as I have the car in pieces!! Cheers, dan

After my other problem here I have been driving around with the ingition column not quite right whilst I wait for the replacement to arrive. This was fine until last night I got in the car without paying proper attention. I managed to drive off with the starter motor engaged. I covered about a mile before I noticed something was making a bit of a rattle. Needless to say the car wont start now, the starter motor sounds like its turning but there is just a high pitched whine. :oops: Am I likely to have caused major damage? Im concerned that the drive gear that turns the flywheel may have destroyed itself and be deposited around the internals of my flywheel housing/clutch.... I was going to attempt to take the starter motor assy out tonight and inspect for damage. I seem to remember with my old 16v that the bolt welt through the engine mount or something. Is it the same arrangement on a G60? Do I need anything special to whip the starter motor out? Cheers, Dan :(

I'm only half an hr or so from swadlincote http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 12&t=59328 :lol: Dont be put off by the price - I'm fairly flexible!! To be serious, the only benefit I can see of paying over the odds dealer prices is for a warrantly. Does this place supply a warranty? If not then its no better than a private sale. Edit: My car comes with full Karmann interior (v. rare) :lol:

Thanks for your help Toad. :D If you could find an example it would very much be appreciated.

I have taken some pictures of where I am up to. I want to try drilling the lock as advised by Mr Toad. Unfortunately I dont have a golf manual. Could someone indicate on one of my pictures where I should drill or alternatively post up some instructions. This is a complete nightmare, even by Corrado standards :lol: Thanks.

The key turns and the engine starts, I can even drive forward and backwards in an Austin Powers Stylee :lol: I have tried unlocking / locking several times and general wiggling but it didnt unlock. I have taken the precaution of buying a housing from the VR6 that Andy Brookes is breaking. I am a little worried now about the talk of 'is it a tilting mechanism' - I thought they all were :? Hopefully the one I have brought will fit. It is sounding like I will have to break the lock in order to withdraw the housing. Is it an option to hacksaw through the casting between the ignition key and the column, I presume the lock mechanism is here..... Thanks for all the replies....car is in Autotrader tomorrow, couldnt have happened at a better time!

My steering lock has jammed on. Ive tried turning / un turning the key to no avail. Last night I stripped the steering wheel, cowling and indicator stalks. I now have a large splined nut, a circlip and a spring that appear to be holding the steering lock onto the shaft. Can I remove these and slide the ignition barrel / steering lock casting off? I cant really see any topics covering the same problem. The limited advice I can see is to smash it all off, but I was hoping there would be a less destructive solution. Any help appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Mine blew on saturday on the way home from failing the MOT :mad: :lol: Car full of steam and hot feet etc.... I was wondering if this meant that the car should have been recalled by VW, from memory there was some kind of health and safety thing to stop that from happening. Is there any way to find out?

Is the lambda wiring ok between the plug and the ecu? I presume you have tested the lambda signal at the plug, could a wire have come out the back of the plug? I once had a loose connection going into the black 4 pin plug that caused a repeat of the problem. I really am sure the lambda or its wiring is where your problem lies as I think the signal is ignored when cold and at WOT, which would match with your symptoms.

Ive had this same problem. Overfueling caused by a knackered lambda probe. When we fitted a new one the black smoke didnt go away for a little while, I think the exhaust baffles might have been full of soot. Has been fine for 3 yrs now though!! :)