Pickard1

I changed the thermostat and black temp sender at the weekend. Just drove to work and the water is running 20oC cooler on the dial and oil 14oC cooler at constant speed on the motorway. I think its safe to say the problem is solved. Thanks everyone!! :D I did notice a leak from the gearbox while under the car though..... :roll:

There is a tool called an easy out, its basically a bolt threaded the wrong way. You drill a small hole into the end of your sheared bolt and by tightening the easy out into the bolt you extract it. My mate did something similar removing his cylinder head. Was tricky, but worked in the end. http://toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/ Not sure if they make them for blots as small as that. Water pump costs 30 quid plus 4-5 hrs labour.

Do you mean bolts? I ordered two new ones and when I opened the bag from VW I had 5 so Ive got 3 spare :D Doesnt help you with getting the broken ends out of the water pump though :(

Same problem as mine too, but I'm a boy and got less responses :lol: :lol: I collected the new thermostat today and might try and have a bash at fitting tomorrow. I will also try and take a couple of snaps for the other non-mechanical people. 2_Door_fun - where did you get the neuspeed stat? I was looking on the net for one of these but could only see them for sale as part of a kit containing chip, pully etc.... If it doesnt work on your car do you want to sell it? :wink:

1. Leaking steering rack 2. front nearside wiper blades 3. front offside wiper blades 4. front offside windscreen wash inoperative 5. front nearside windscreen wash inoperative 6. rear offside brake line corroded 7. rear nearside brake line corroded 8. front nearside brake line corroded 9. front nearside indicator colour incorrect 10.front offside indicator colour incorrect 11. rear wing corroded cant remember the rest, lost the cert already. :lol: All I did was clean the filter on the washer bottle and gunk the steering rack to remove the hydraulic fluid spray. The thing that really annoyed me was the indicators. They are clear so they look like boy racer add-ons, but because its an Si, they came like that as standard. Im sure standard trim cant be illigal, but I reckon they saw it as a quick couple of quid, presuming my little bro had added them a la max power. At the end of MOT 1 they offered to take it off my hands for 30 quid, or quoted 450 :lol: quid to repair. Its a 11 yr old fiesta. :x edit: just rememberd the other faults was play in various bushes

Thermoswitch was changed 4 months ago with a genuine part. This was when I discovered my fan didnt work on low speed. I still have the switch I took out, which as far as I am aware wasnt broken in the first place. I may play about with switching these over. The main reason that I think its the thermostat is because temp is hot even on the motroway. At these speeds the rad is seeing plenty of cold air and it shouldnt matter if the fan is working or not. If the stat is not opening fully then the rad wont be seeing the hot water and cant cool at speeds and the fan wont be coming on in traffic......this is my theory anyway......anyone agree??? :? After I ordered the parts today the fan was coming on at every roundabout and the temp was sitting at just over 100 at sustained motorway speeds. So it seems to have fixed itself :lol: Tomorrow I think i might go to maplins and buy a little electronics set so I can set about testing some of these switches I keep replacing :lol:

Well I didnt want an unsafe car, just dont want to pay for stuff thats not necessary. They appeared sound to me and MOT station #2 were in agreement. As I said above, its a totally subjective test, but I see my fair share of rusty stuff in my line of work so feel pretty safe in my judgement.

Update on this one.... MOT station 2 passed the car with 5 advisories and no fails. The original station gave it 14 failure points!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

My G60 is running hot. When sitting at 80-90 on the motorway the needle is sitting at 110oC, this seems too hot considering the airflow that the radiator is seeing at these speeds. When I leave the motorway into heavy traffic it will then cool down to maybe 100oC as I slow, before heating back up to to 110oC after a few mins in the traffic. The fan sometimes comes on and sometimes doesnt. I know the fan wiring is good and the fan switch is only 4 months old. The waterpump was also new 4 months ago. I am thinking that I have some kind of intermittent thermostat problem, or maybe a thermostat that is only opening slightly...does this sound reasonable... Anyway, I think I will order a new thermostat tomorrow and try and fit it on Friday. I know the concencus on temp senders has swung back to getting VAG ones, should I get a VAG thermostat too? Also I need to order: thermostat, o ring, new plastic elbow, new bolts?....anything else? Cheers Dan :D

Bit late now.... I have an L&S cartec charger and have been running it on a 68mm pulley for 20,000 miles with no issues. I brought it cause I thought it was the cheapest option - but looking at whats been posted I dont think it was any cheaper than G-werks. :oops:

Going on from some of what has been mentioned above regarding corrosion. I was told by my mechanic that the acceptance criteria for brake lines is that the corrosion pitting should not penetrate more than 1/3 rd deep into the diamiter of the pipe. If this is the case (can someone confirm) then the test is completely subjective and there is no way to confirm this without destroying the pipes. I think I may ask for my old brake lines back and mount them up to examine under a microscope. I could then confirm if they were genuine failures or -hopefully - prove that they were ok. I doubt there would be any comeback on this, but it might be fun to show up the garage. :lol:

Just to clarify, will tester #2 be able to see on the computer system that tester #1 has done a test? The emissions wern't tested as the exhaust was apparently blowing.

Hi all. My brothers old runaround has just failed its MOT on a few points that our mechanic feels are a bit borderline. He had advised we just resubmit it to another test center. I'm sure you could do this in the olden days, but doesn't this new computer system mean that the new MOT station can see all the failures that the original MOT station failed it on?? Thanks, Dan

I think you will get one of 3 things happening. 1. Nothing, in which case you may not have power....fuse? 2. It works on one speed only. Likely that the slow speed controller in the fan has broken. 3. It works fine.

Pictures as requested......I must be bored :lol: First off I made up a length of wire 4" long with two spade connectors on the end, all sourced from the local garage for a few pence. I suppose you could just use a plain bit of wire, but I thought there was less chance of shocking myself this way :shock: Pull the plug off the back of the radiator fan thermoswitch. Plug one end of the wire connector you have made into the solid red wire. Then plug the other end into the red/black wire. The fan should start. Leave the end plugged into the solid Red wire and try the red/white wire. The fan should also start. One should be fast and one slow....unfortunately I cant remember which is which and I have fudged the wiring on mine so I cant find out. I am sure someone can enlighten us..... Be carefull not so snag yourself or any of the wiring in the fan. Also I seem to remember someone saying it was best to only short the fans for short periods of time....maybe so as not to overload the connector if you have used flimsy wire..... :?

The blue one tells the ECU what the temperature is. The black one tells the temperature guague on the dash what the temperature is. Both water temperature. The flashing light, if not accompanied by beeping, will be low water level. Did you loose much coolant changing the sensors- probably needs a top up. The light that flashes and beeps at the same time is oil pressure. If that is sounding you should stop driving.

Deffinitely check the rad fan is working by shorting the wires, and also check the fuses. This doesnt cost anything and is a worthwhile check. Replacing all the temp sensors from VAG will cost over 40 quid and might not change anything.

This gives the digi readout on the MfA. you can plug it somewhere more interesting if you want :lol: i.e. inlet temperature etc..

Have you checked that both speeds work on the fan by shorting the connection? Take the plug off the back of the switch that you have changed in the radiator. There should be a solid red wire on one side of the plug and a red/black and a red/white wire going into it. If you short the contacts between the solid red wire and the other two (one at a time) the fan should fire up. One wire controls slow fan (95oC) and the other fast fan (105oC). If the slow fan doesnt work then you have a knackered fan, which cant be fixed as the speed controlling bit is housed within the fan unit. You can 'bodge' the wiring though if required. This was a problem I had, changing the senders didnt make any difference to mine. The fan will always kick in a little higher than the temperature that is seen on the dashboard. I think this is because the dashboard temp is taken as soon as the water exits the head, whereas the radiator thermoswitch sees the water temp after some of the heat had dissipated travelling down the pipes. When mine is working as it should then it sits at about bang on 100oC on the dash temp gaugue. That is when the car is warmed up and standing and the fans are kicking in/out. Edit: Forgot to say, the temperatures are actually stamped onto the side of the rad thermoswitch, next to the part number

Ive just been looking around to get a service done in the Leicester area. Although this is where I'm from I have had the car serviced in various parts of the country for the last 3 years due to moving around from work and so dont know anywhere local. A local specialist that has been recommended to me by some people on the forum and a couple of C owners I have met while out and about want 210quid for a service, including plugs. I picked the mechanics brains about the G60 engine and he seemed to know what he was talking about. He was aware it had a supercharger (better than some places :lol: ) and seemed genuinely interested. I just thought 210 quid for a service from an independant was a little steep. I know you get what you pay for, and I am aware that the mechanical knowlege is probably greater than the spotty oiks at VW, but fundimentally (in my opinion) an independent should be cheaper. I called VW and it turns out that they would do the service for the same price, also including plugs. Obviously that is not an option but I think it indicates that the prices are a little steep. Looking back through my records other places I have used: Jabbasport 150.00 inc plugs (2003), awesome Gti 162.00 inc plugs (2005), PSI Tuning 150.00 inc plugs (2006). Anyway, the whole thing has got me considering wether i should just do it myself. I can change Oil, oil Filter and air filter and have before as an intermidiate step when I cant spare the time to get the car to the garage. Sorry for the rambling post, but what does everyone think. Do you bother with specialists? What do they charge? Should they be cheaper than VW? Is paying someone to service your car just a waste of money.....

I think the original oil cooler has been removed, else the water would heat the oil up eventually?? Perhaps you should get a thermostatic valve. Otherwise some tinfoil. :lol:

This happens to mine too. It rockets up to 78oC and then slows right down. Obviously there is some calibration error between the sandwich plate and the MFA oil temp. The plate is opening at 78oC, hence the slow down in temperature rise. Id say it takes about 15 mins to get up there, depending on how many revs you are giving it. I still play it safe and wait for 80 on the MFA, even though it is an extra 5 mins. Im (un)fortunate that I mainly do longish journeys so its not too bad - it always gets there eventually. If I was pottering around town and it never got to 80 to floor it then I might look harder for a solution. It may be that at 15yrs old the oil temp sender has drifted out of calibration. A new one might be 'in line' with the thermo plate? But equally it could be the plate that is releasing too early.

Hello Lee, Is the oil level correct? Lubrication is essential with a G60 as you have the supercharger spinning at something like 1.3 x engine RPM. If it isnt getting enough oil then it will seize and then grenade itself. This has happened to me and it isnt funny :twisted: I would suggest not to drive the car "like a rocket" or preferably at all, until you get this sorted. Hopefully it is just a faulty sender. 8)

I didnt see any mention of a charger rebuild. Low miles or not its 15 years old and needs doing. You need to be knocking 400quid + off just for that. When you factor that in, 2500 + charger rebuild, its at the top of the money for a red 'rado. I think anyway.... 8)

If it has had the chains done he WILL have a receipt as it is a pretty pricey job, although not on the service schedule. Ask to see it. (I think 500 quid approx, no doubt someone can correct me) Corrados are normally pretty good for rusting, especially one as 'new' as 1994, so rust as you mention could be a sign of accident damage. Definitely worth a HPI check 'cause 1700 quid is VERY cheap. You never know, it might be one elderly owner from new who doesnt know what hes got and has taken the price from parkers....but unlikely! :evil: